3.27.13

Pattern Play: Working with Basic Patterns

I’m so glad that so many of you are excited to see my progress on designing my own sewing patterns! Yay! First of all, I think its important to establish how sewing patterns are made. Commercial sewing patterns start life as a basic sewing pattern and are either drafted on paper from body measurements or they are draped onto a dressform. The basic patterns that are created from this process are called slopers or blocks. There can be many types of blocks – bodice, sleeve, skirt, jacket/coat bodices and sleeves, pants, blocks especially for knits, etc. Also keep in mind that even within block/sloper types there can be different versions depending on the amount of wearing ease the end version of a pattern is going to have. From here, these basic patterns are manipulated and turned into many of the groovier patterns that you see today. This is actually the fun part! Turning a basic style into something more….exciting.

Personally, I feel there is a difference between drafting and designing sewing patterns. When you draft a pattern, you are drafting a basic pattern from measurements or draping a pattern onto a dressform or another person’s body. Design is what you do with the pattern after you’ve got the basic pattern.

● In my book, there are several ways to go about getting the basic patterns. You can learn how to draft sewing patterns yourself, from your measurements. This can be an intimidating process to tackle without a teacher – ask me how I know. I’ve drafted several patterns before (still do), from my own measurements, and I have nothing against pattern drafting, but it can end up taking the same amount of time to fit a flat drafted pattern as it does a commercial pattern.
● You could also learn how to drape a basic sewing pattern onto a dressform – but wait. I don’t know about you, but my dress form is not a perfectly padded out version of my body. Sad, but true. So in essence my draped sewing pattern would fit my dressform, but I would have to refit it to fit me. Ha ha ha! Dressforms that are made to your measurements can cost a lot of money and though I’ve seen several people pad out their dressforms themselves, its not easy and it really does take two people to get it right. You need a draping buddy, friends.
● Additionally, you could pay someone to create a few basic patterns for you by either drafting from your measurements or draping them on your body. This is a great idea, if you have access to someone who knows how to draft sewing patterns and would be willing to work with you.
● You could also rub-off a favorite basic garment that you already have in your closet. Say you had a perfect t-shirt. Create a paper pattern from it and use it as a basis for manipulation.
● Or you can pick and choose some basic patterns from the pattern book or an independent pattern company, get the fit down and get started on your own pattern manipulation. This is the road that I’ve decided to take for this series because I feel its the most accessible.

So what’s all this basic pattern business? What defines a basic pattern? These are usually the types of patterns that are drafted and then turned into something else. The Fitting Shells put out by Vogue (dress and pants), McCall’s (btw, this one has cup sizes) and Butterick (misses and womens’) are great examples. But we must think broader too. A fitting shell will give you a basic bodice, sleeve and skirt, but what about pants, knits, jackets, coats and all of the other types of clothing out there? I think its a good idea to think about several options and take stock of the type of clothing that you wear the most.

Consider the Renfrew for t-shirts – this a great basic pattern that could easily turn into a tank top for summer, a cardigan, a hoodie, a dress, etc. What about the Clover from Colette Patterns? These little pants would be a great block for some skinny jeans. The Laurel that just came out – a great basic style semi fitted dress that could translate well into a simple button up shirt or even jacket. Yup, that’s right, I just said jacket from a dress! What you’re looking for in a basic pattern is simplicity in style and something that could be easily modified for different looks. There’s not a lot of gathering or pleating or design lines going on in the pattern but yet, you can envision some. That’s the idea! Usually basic patterns – with the exclusion of knits – have dart control meaning they have darts. Darts are what help create shape and so when you’re looking for some basic patterns, be aware that its normal to have darts. Look at the fitting shell (links above) – the bodice is darted, so is the skirt and in vintage patterns there are darts at the elbow on a sleeve. This is good because darts will give us the foundation to be able to manipulate the pattern, so look for that.

In my next post, I’ll be going over my own personal arsenal of great basic patterns and from there giving you more options for basic patterns from several different companies. In fact, you’ve probably got a lot of the same basic sewing patterns that I do. Pretty spiffy, right?

What are some great basic sewing patterns that you’ve found? What are the kinds/types of clothes that you wear the most?

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Sam - A great basic I’ve recently discovered is New Look 6000. A couple of the views have waist pleats/gathers to one side to create shaping, but there’s also a great plain shift dress version. I’ve only made it once as a dress, but am about to use it to make a couple of tops – kind of like the top version of Laurel. I can see it being used loads, either the dress or top version as the basis for a number of different looks.
Sam recently posted..Creating a Co-ordinated Wardrobe

PendleStitches - I’m about to embark on the Sew the Perfect Fit course on Craftsy, which I’m hoping will result in a perfectly fitted bodice, sleeve and skirt that I can then use as the basis for making my own designs. This course uses Vogue 8766.
PendleStitches recently posted..Knit to Flatter – p1

Kristin - Not only is this series perfect, and I love you for blogging about it, but that dress shell is exactly the style I’ve been looking for and can’t seem to find anywhere. I’m grabbing one right now and then I’ll not only have the basic dress I’ve been looking for, but I’ll be able to learn and manipulate it without feeling awful about altering it like I currently do with my vintage patterns!
Kristin recently posted..For When You Don’t Have a Serger: French Seams

birdmommy - It took me a lot of trial and error before I figured out that for my body, a princess seamed ‘basic’ is the best choice. I do not miss trying to get conventional bust darts to look ‘right’ on me!

Linda B. - I am excited to follow your next posts. I have tried tweaking a basic sloper pattern without much success. I finally cut apart and altered a tailored shirt to make a pattern that fits me pretty well — here is the result: http://slippermoonstudio.blogspot.com/2011/03/deconstructing-blouse-sewing-experiment.html

Maggie - I never really thought about going to my pattern stash for basic blocks or slopers, but it does make sense! I will have to go through my stash and see what I have :) I am excited to see your list and compare it with what I might already own! Such a great series!!

Rosie Wednesday - One of the things I really like about Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing is that it’s founded on this idea – that you can take a basic pattern and manipulate it lots of ways.

I don’t have any experience doing this, though, so I’ve found it to be a bit tricky. I did Gertie’s plaid wintertime jumper, a modification of the sultry sheath: http://rosiewednesday.blogspot.com/2013/02/plaid-wintertime-jumper.html. I had some fit problems in the end despite my best efforts. So I’m excited to learn more from this series!

Tasha @ Stale Bread into French Toast - I’m looking forward to following your adventures! I’m a proud home sewer too. Lately I have been either rubbing off something that almost fits me, or drafting a pattern, and then playing with variations as I make new versions. I love that I can continue to learn and work on fitting while adding new details!

KayoticSewing - I mostly wear knit t-shirts – so I’d be curious to see the various design one could possibly come up from a basic knit block.. I’ve been making sketches so far and its exciting..
KayoticSewing recently posted..Why do a muslin? Why? Oh why?

Tasha - I’m really curious to see how this goes for you and to follow along! I sewed the Sewaholic Alma blouse earlier this year and it *definitely* struck me as a great basic pattern to jump off from!
Tasha recently posted..My finished Sew for Victory jacket

Helen - This is a great idea (the series), and I’m really looking forwars to learning a lot (no pressure intended!)

i’ve used New Look 6356 to make a few variations now. I think this is now discontinued, but it’s a basic shell top with a couple of neckline and sleeve variations. From this, I’ve made a kimono sleeve top and a button back blouse with a lace collar. And felt very proud of myself afterwards! :) Both get lots of wear! And I found doing it this way, way less intimidating than the thought of drafting a block!

Meagan - I totally agree that its just better to use a basic premade one. I have drafted one of everything (including mens clothes) and even though yes I now have a block for a dress that fits really well I loathed every minute of it. I felt while doing it that it would just make more sense to find a really basic pattern and manipulate the heck out of it. I will say that the Kenneth King Moulage cd books are a fanatastic resource, but you really need to invest significant time into creating the block. Whenever I meet with my students I tell them that the real trick is to work smarter not harder,and if a block exists and just needs fitting then do it.

Bec - Might have to grab the alma blouse or the Renfrew as most people say they are fairly straightforward and great ‘starters’.. will be good to get a pattern that fits well that I can try in different fabrics to see how they sew differently

Melissa - I would love so much to take a pattern drafting course, but I have yet to find one that fits into my schedule. Thanks for giving me a little more info! I have made my own patterns from “scratch” a couple of times before, but generally when I want to make something that I don’t have an exact pattern for I’ll modify one I have or kind of cobble two different ones together.
Melissa recently posted..Sewing Project: Applique Makeup Bags

Gail - I’m in favour of drafting. I get very annoyed at designers – sadly many of the new independents – selling very simple designs for outlandish prices.
Gail recently posted..Evolution blouse

Sarah - What I really want is a pattern for a stretch fabric top with a front closure, a low square neck, and short puffed sleeves. I feel like I should be able to extrapolate one from the strapless princess seam bodice front I have, but the area of a shirt that goes around armholes and upper back is pretty much my sewing kryptonite, and I’ve been chicken so far. One day I’ll just get a boatload of muslin and a free weekend, and brute force whatever my fit problem is…
Sarah recently posted..Superdress!

ebonyh - I agree with @Rosie Wednesday about Gertie’s book having both great basic patterns & instructions for how to begin playing around with them. And while I’ve had a similar thought as @Gail re: simple patterns at expensive prices, I would also say that what may set these independent designers apart is that their simple patterns are often drafted to fit specific body types, which makes it much easier for certain gals to get the fit they’re going for. (This is another reason I love Gertie’s book; her patterns are drafted almost exactly to my measurements.)

I also wanted to add that the Build by Wendy books are all written around the concept of block patterns, even though she never uses that term in the books. While many of the pattern variations Wendy shows are not to my taste, the patterns all seem to be good starting points for design. These books are really reasonably priced for what you get.

Blondell - Thanks for this great post about Basic Patterns. In design school I’ve tried each of these methods for developing a sloper. For me, Flat Pattern is the easiest for me. In the end, whether you draft, drape or rub off; you still have to make a flat pattern.

http://thesassysewer.blogspot.com/

Angela - I can’t wait to see the patterns that you come up with! I think that manipulating basic patterns is a great method!

SKP - If anyone else prefers draping from scratch for whatever reason, I recommend the book The Little Black Dress: How to Make the Perfect One for You, by Simon Henry. It teaches you how to drape a fitting block off your own body instead of a dress form, and also how to manipulate the block to create several different styles of dress. I went through the process (with a draping partner, of course) and found it straightforward and foolproof if rather labor-intensive.

Rach - So excited for this post series! I rather optimistically bought a ‘how to draft your own pattern block” but haven’t been game enough to give it a go.

3.26.13

Pattern Play

Since I started teaching sewing classes last year, I’ve noticed a trend from many students who have taken classes from me. We’ll discuss fit and how it can be quite an ordeal to get a sewing pattern to fit you the way you want it to and inevitably it always moves onto, “I want to know how to make my own sewing patterns, how to create my own designs because what I see in the pattern books these days, is not what I want to make.” Admittedly, I know there are some tragic sewing patterns out there and with other sewing patterns it can be hard to see past the envelope cover – a topic for another day.

Though I would love to talk more in depth about fit, I feel that this can be a fairly personal issue and it can change quite a bit from person to person. I say, get yourself a good fitting book, like this one, and start learning how to go about fitting your handmade garments better, especially basic patterns (more on this to come). As for what’s about to come up here, I think the realm of design seems to many, nothing less than mysterious. From the standpoint of a sewing enthusiast – someone who has never gone to fashion design school but is a mega geek about sewing (that’s me!) – I think it can be a tricky road to finding out just how one goes about trying to knock off looks and styles that inspire (and work) and even come up with a unique design all their own. So I’ve decided to start a new series here.

Pattern Play. I’m going to show you my progress as I start to create my own sewing patterns. Now wait a minute – Hold the phone!!!! Does this mean that I’m starting up my own pattern company? NO! I’m just going to show you my progress as I tackle designing my own sewing patterns for personal use.  Additionally, I’ve decided to do this from the vantage of the home sewer because quite frankly, that’s what I am and I’m proud of it.

I think the idea of playing designer appeals to so many of us that sew our own clothes because its one more outlet in the creative process of sewing. Not only that, but playing around with sewing patterns is really really fun. This series is all about exploration into new and exciting territory and about making it personal. Its also going to be about liberating oneself from the confines of the offerings in the pattern book and using your own imagination to come up with a design all your own.

I do hope that you are as excited as I am about this venture. Do you ever long to create some of your own designs or even recreate some of the designs from the pattern book with a pattern that already fits you? I have loads more to show and discuss with you so stay tuned for more excitement and fun!

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Becky - Oh, this looks like real fun! I can hardly wait.

Steph A - Me too! I need to get my basic blocks sorted out then I can start playing with patterns!
Steph A recently posted..Pavlova Wrap Top

sallie - I love this idea for a series! It’s so true that more and more home sewers want to know about pattern making. I think adding ‘designing’ to your home sewing arsenal is just really freeing. You can make what YOU want, when YOU want it, and it’s practically free (you know, besides the cost of paper…) I can’t wait to see your progress. Will you be sewing up any of your designs? Or just doing pattern manipulation?
sallie recently posted..polka dots

Jean - I have started making my own patterns for basic items, such as skirts, that I make for my petite daughter. Once I get something that fits her well, I often will use it as the basis to get a great fit from a Big 4 pattern with the design elements she likes. I am so looking forward to this series!

KayoticSewing - I can’t wait for this series.

I have been working on a TNT knit top (and soon on a TNT woven top). I’d like to use that as a base to create more designs. After all, that’s how designers do.. they super-impose their designs on their basic block. So, why can’t I do it?

The advantage is if I work on getting the right fit on my basic block, then not many fitting challenges with the new design.
KayoticSewing recently posted..Why do a muslin? Why? Oh why?

Hearthrose - YES! I’ve been meaning to start work on this for myself. Getting a proper sloper fit takes ages… I don’t like doing all that work every time I break out a new pattern, so I’ve been working some stuff up off my slopers – frankly though, it’s been hit and miss.

If you can address the fitting issues you have to change as you increase wearing ease, that would be FABULOUS – slopers are tight, and I’ve learned to my sorrow that wearing ease is not just a matter of increasing a bit of seam allowance, or at least not on a full bust (the effect is comical and tragic at the same time).

Sunni - @sallie – Yes! I plan to sew up my designs – some in muslin for testing depending on how tricky the design is and most in a final fabric. Sooooo excited!

@Jean – a great base to work off of Jean and something that I’ll be talking about more in depth too.

@KayoticSewing – Exactly! There are many different types of patterns – knit tops, pants, dresses, skirts, jackets – that can be used as a beginning block for creating your own designs. Yay! This will be fun!

@Hearthrose – I agree. Something I’ve tried with not so much luck either. I think it comes down to fitting a sloper with the amount of ease you plan to have in most garments. If you fit it skin tight then consider it as the sloper for evening wear – strapless dresses and such – instead of your daily wear.

Rochelle New - I would love to hear more about your adventures in personal pattern making!! I just signed up for a Craftsy class so I can get the basics down and I can’t wait to start making my own designs come to life :)
Rochelle New recently posted..Sew For Victory Giveaways!

K-Line - I’m so looking forward to this! Fit is really personal – what works for me (and to my eye – on myself or on others) is not necessarily what you will like. But being able to fit your own body in the way you choose is so liberating!

Claire - I can’t wait to see more on this series!
I like to go with my personal patterns, mostly from pattern tweak and mix, and sometimes I wish I know more about designing and shape…

Faye Lewis - I am extremely interested in yoor pattern play and will be watching with eager eyes.

Diane @ Vintage Zest - I have tried out piecing together existing patterns or using patterns as a jumping off point. I catalogued a couple of hits and misses on blog as well.

Self Drafted
From Existing Patterns

I can’t wait for the next post!
Diane @ Vintage Zest recently posted..Tutorial: Duct Tape Dress Form + Giveaway!

Ginger - Oh, yay, this sounds like so much fun! Can’t wait to see what you make!
Ginger recently posted..Ginger Made: Lace Belladone Dress

JanaL - I would really enjoy this series. This is the direction that I have gone with my home sewing. It is hard and time consuming at times….but oh, the satisfaction of creating something completely from scratch! Also, the possibilities become limitless, and it is very freeing not to rely on pattern companies for designs that you may or may not like. Plus, I can design garments with just the proper amount of ease for my frame.

The starting point is a few great slopers. Mine are always a work in process, but I have a jacket/coat sloper, blouse sloper, skirt sloper, jeans sloper, t-shirt/knit shirt sloper, and a trouser sloper. From these I try to manipulate my slopers to create the pattern I want. I have also become very aware of proportions, since these become so important when making your own patterns.

Yay! I look forward to all you insights on this topic!

ShanniLoves... - This is going to be great!
ShanniLoves… recently posted..Serving up Pugs – Andy Warhol style

Natasha Jane - Pattern Play sounds like a great blog topic. Can’t wait to read more!

Maggie - This is super exciting!! I can’t wait to see this series unfold! I always see things online or in stores and think ” I can make that better and the way I want it!”, but I always seem to get stuck with how to execute it.
Maggie recently posted..Week 12: Go big.

Kristin - Yes, this is so exciting! I’ve been trying to do this on my one, sometimes with success and other times not so much. I rather hate paying $15-20 per pattern and even when I do pay up, I don’t like that I have to modify them. When I see patterns, I’m merely inspired because “Wouldn’t it look better if…” Although, yes, I do know that I need to learn how to see past some of the awful drawings and photographs on the cover – I’m working on it!
Kristin recently posted..For When You Don’t Have a Serger: French Seams

Meg - This sounds like a great series, I can’t wait. I dabble in making my own patterns and I find the hardest part is drafting the little bits – collars, cuffs, plackets etc – and then getting everything to match up at seam lines. But I love playing with the big bits and moving darts around!

Cherie - I am super excited about this series!

Kelly - Another great series from you this spring! I drafted a shorts pattern using Weekend Designer’s instructions back when I was a fearless beginner and they turned out pretty well, considering. Adele Margolis’s “Make Your Own Dress Patterns” has been a huge inspiration as well, but I get stopped up by not having a good basic bodice block (and my one attempt at drafting that went so horribly wrong). Every little bit I’ve learned about pattern making has been so freeing though, and I’m really looking forward to being inspired by all that you do!
Kelly recently posted..Archer Sew Along Begins!

LinB - Ah, youth! I spent some years in the early 1980s learning to draft my own patterns for everything, only to come to the conclusion that commercial patterns are far cheaper to find something close and alter it. You sweet young things keep on doing what you are doing, though. It takes a deep understanding of the whys and wherefores to even begin to know how to edit someone else’s work. And if you are a truly weird shape (three arms, extra ribs, neck as wide as your shoulders, etc.) you’ll probably have to draft your own pattern, anyway. Even if you draft all your own basic slopers, it’s nice to have pre-drafted details of pockets, collars, and such to borrow from a commercial pattern.

Rebecca - So excited for your series, can’t wait! Love your blog!

Emily - So excited for this series! :)
Emily recently posted..Lisette Attache Dress

Miss Crayola Creepy - Drafting patterns seems so intimidating to me, but you always break things down so I can understand them. I’m excited! :0
Miss Crayola Creepy recently posted..Two muslins

lisa g - great idea! i’m definitely interested in this area, i tend to modify patterns quite a bit to get what i want.
lisa g recently posted..how to attach a narrow binding for knitwear

Sarah - Oooh, this sounds great! As someone who never quite seems to get up the nerve to crack open those pattern making books and figure out what to do, I can’t wait to see it being done by another (braver, more experienced) home seamstress.
Sarah recently posted..Superdress!

Gjeometry - I’m really looking forward to this series. I have dabbled in making my own patterns and would love to learn more about alterations and fitting.

Tiffany - Hurrah! I’m excited that you’re tackling this, and especially from the home-sewing viewpoint. Like others have said above, I’m often tempted to just make slopers and ignore patterns from then on… but wearing ease, fabric personalities (ha), etc. complicate stuff.
I’m hoping to learn more about where the actual size of bits comes from in patterns (does that make sense?) because the amount of ease hidden in modern patterns often makes garments unwearable for me, particularly when my size is the last or next to last in the size range. Sewing deeper seams all around doesn’t always work. I’m pretty sure that learning more about patterns will make them more useful to me, even if I don’t end up drafting all of my own.

Becky - I’m very excited that you’re doing this! I can use a pattern just fine and dandy by this point, but successfully altering and especially drafting them has completely eluded me. I haven’t even been able to manage a standard FBA successfully at this point! So I will most certainly be following this along with interest.
Becky recently posted..in the spotlight

Alaskapsych - Sunni, I think I’m on board too. I really don’t need fancy schmancy things. I want/need basic pieces that fit well and have a classic look about them. If I wanted designer things, I’d have bought them by now, but I really just need basics that are timeless and classic. I’d love it if that could be the end result.

Beth - This post really resonated with me, especially what you said about being a home sewing geek! I look forward to this series.

Stephanie - I AM excited about this! I would like to do something similar. Make a sloper and create my own clothes that fit!
Stephanie recently posted..Pendleton + Leather

twotoast - Ooh, exciting – I’m coming along for the ride!

Jenny - Oooh–so exciting! I have only just begun to dabble in “pattern play,” so this series is very timely. Thanks for sharing!
Jenny recently posted..March Stash-Busting: The Cheerfullest Blouse I Almost Forgot About

sewamysew - This such a great idea!! It’s definately the next step for in becoming a really good seamstress and having a wardrobe that I really like. Thanks so much

Bec - Following so many sewing blogs, and recently starting to sew/study fashion has made me realise how long it is going to take me to get to this point :)
People who don’t sew, really don’t understand how long and exactly how much effort goes into making a garment, lead along designing one.
Looking forward to your posts :)
Bec recently posted..Sewing room sneak peak..

LadyD - If I want to recreate a ‘look’ I’ll find a pattern that’s close enough then tweak it as I’m not skilled enough to start from scratch. (I’ve tried and anything more than a simple vest or a dirndle/gathered skirt turns to disaster). I’m actually working on a project now where I saw the cover of a vintage pattern and thought I want that dress so have used a modern pattern with tweaks to recreate ‘the look’.

Mary McAndrew - Sunni I’m so excited to see you’re going to do this series, what a great idea! When I sew I copy the pattern onto either big pieces of felt or old cotton sheets, then I can pin them together and also as I sew the garment I can go back and easily alter the pattern I cut. This way I also retain the original tissue for reference. The felt has been great because you can really pin it together to try on.
I hope you also talk about how different fabric types can come out totally different with the same pattern.
I can’t wait to read your posts!

Nikki - I am a new reader but incredibly excited to share in your journey, because I feel like I’m in the exact same boat as you! Who needs fashion school? Everyone knows that experience is the best teacher, anyways. I have a basic pattern making book (McCunn) lying dormant in my sewing room and I just need the motivation to start working my way through it!

Tina - Sunni, I am ecstatic about this plan you have. I have been TRYING to get a pants pattern to fit me for far too long. I have, just recently, purchased a sloper pants pattern from Vogue that I am hoping to get the fit right. I have been interested in getting a set of basic sloper patterns worked up in the hopes of using them to compare against other self drafted patterns or commercial as well as independent pattern companies. I have dabbled in pattern making using Helen Joseph-Armstrong’s book “Pattern Making For Fashion Design” and have been pleased with the process; however, with pants was not able to get the fit “just right” in the end. The whole crotch thing is perplexing.

3.13.13

Side by Side Tailoring: On Tailoring

Click on the image for a great discussion on tailoring for women!

Y’all seemed pretty keen on the idea of watching the progress of two tailored jackets – one traditionally hand tailored and the other fusibly tailored. I thought I would start this series with my thoughts on tailoring. Tailoring is a very ambiguous term these days and it seems to refer to a lot more than the art of making jackets. So let’s take down a few definitions shall we?

From the Wikipedia we get this:

“A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men’s clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men’s and women’s suits, coats, trousers, and similar garments, usually of wool, linen, or silk. The term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets. Retailers of tailored suits often take their services internationally, traveling to various cities, allowing the client to be measured locally. Traditional tailoring is called bespoke tailoring in the United Kingdom, where the heart of the trade is London’s Savile Row tailoring, and custom tailoring in the United States and Hong Kong. This is unlike made to measure which uses pre-existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is completely original and unique to each customer.”

This is very much in line with how I view tailoring. Especially the part about “a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets.” I think its important to set this distinction as I see the term tailoring thrown around a lot with regards to fit. Now this may be true of some garments – garments that are tailored to your lifestyle or tailored to your specific figure, but I’m referring to the construction techniques of a jacket. More importantly, I’m referring to the specific techniques used to shape certain areas of a jacket like the lapel, collar, shoulder, hem, sleeve cap, etc.

From what I know about tailoring, there are 3 methods: hand, machine and fusible. Many times, I intermix all three methods into one jacket. There are certain things that I just really love about hand tailoring, but other things I don’t. There are great advantages to machine and fusible tailoring too and like hand tailoring there are some things that I don’t think work as well as others but these are personal preferences and I believe will vary with your experience. Also, I truly believe that the fabric that is picked for a jacket project, will give you more direction on what tailoring method you use. For example, pad stitching on my Obsession Jacket – a cotton sateen – would have been disastrous! I am not an expert tailor and perfecting pad stitching on a smooth faced fabric is not high on my to master list. So going with a fusible method made a lot more sense to me.

In this series, I’ll be showing two of the three methods, hand and fusible. You can definitely mix and match elements from each jacket to use in one jacket of your own, but I’ll try to stick to the ideas for each with each separate jacket.

All that said, what is it specifically that scares you about tailoring a jacket? If you’ve never tried one, what is the most intimidating part about making a jacket? Any tips or tricks from you more experienced sewers?

You are most welcome to disagree, agree or other, but please keep your comments respectful of myself and others. Comments will be deleted that contain hostile or rude innuendo.
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Becky - I have never made a jacket. Too intimidated thus far to try. I think the most intimidating part of this project would be the construction of the shoulder/sleeve cap. Now, I am saying this based on my fears. I know everything is easy once you know how, but since I don’t yet know how, that is my fear. What’s the most difficult part of a jacket for you since you are experienced?

Jane - I think for me, it’s the very little details that make me think it will all come out wrong. I can watch a video on pad-stitching and feel pretty good about it, but knowing exactly how much seam allowance to trim or whether to catch the interfacing in the seam or exactly what I’m doing with stay tape freaks me out. I’m also not totally clear on marking my roll line when the pattern doesn’t indicate it and my muslin fabric isn’t super similar to my fashion fabric (which may have been my first mistake). I’m getting stressed out just thinking about it!

Kristin - I’m way too intimidated to make a jacket. It’s all the pieces and the collar and how everything needs to be exactly “perfect.” That said, I’m not totally comfortable with sleeves, so it may just be that jackets are a bit advanced for me. I want to try to make a jacket later this year, so I’ll be following this closely.
Kristin recently posted..Finished: Silhouette Pillows for Valentine’s Day

Diane @ Vintage Zest - I’m also in the novice group as well. Along with Kristin above (who is in my beginning sewer Facebook group!), I think we’re intimidated by all the pieces and how to alter them to our best fit.

Honestly, there’s something before even starting construction that I feel lacking in. I know how to take measurements of myself, because there are great tutorials out there. However, I’m not sure how to interpret them! How do I know if I have a swayback, wide shoulders, narrow back, short waist, etc.?

I can guess at my specific fit issues based on what I’ve experienced with ready to wear clothing, but I’m not altogether positive on what I need to look out for prior to attacking a jacket pattern. Is there a website or book that would have good diagrams or instructions in interpreting the difference in all of these terms and how to adjust for them in patterns? That would ease my fears about tailoring for sure!
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the Garment Farmer - It’s the shoulders and sleeve cap mostly, and the collar is a little intimidating too. But mostly, how do you stabilize/support the shoulder/sleeve cap and insert the shoulder pad? So many little details that don’t come up in shirt and dress patterns.
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Kelly - This is going to be such a great series! My first (and only) jacket was an honest-to-goodness men’s suit jacket with hand tailoring that I made after having only sewn for a year or so. As you can guess, it didn’t turn out very well and in retrospect hand tailoring was all wrong for my cheap, ultra-smooth fabric. Now, three years later, I am ready to try another jacket, so this is coming along at just the right time!
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Mainelydad - First off, the suit in the photo….amazing. I think most of us would stop in our tracks if we ever saw someone so elegantly dressed, especially in our sweatshirt and flannel PJ bottom world. My take on tailoring is to make something that you really, really want. It makes all the effort completely worthwhile. It’s not about fast fashion, but about making something that will last and you just love to wear.

Meli - I tried to make a tailored jacket once; by tried I mean that I did my usual and refused to use a pattern or ask for any help. I rubbed it off of another jacket, and did silly things like painting muslin with clear nail polish to make the fabric that I was interfacing it with. It looks fine, even if the fit isn’t perfect, but I’m afraid to wash it, because someone told me that the nail polish could stain the fabric. Oops! I’d love to learn how to really tailor something!

Summer - About the linked discussion: Wow. Hello sexism. It’s not completely overt but a “why aren’t women ladies anymore” discussion is disingenuous and out of touch. Most women never looked like that tailored suit photo! And those who did had the free time and money to spend most of their energy on their looks. I’m glad we’ve been freed from that burden.

I think it’s great to show different tailoring techniques that fit modern fabrics and lifestyles. If I ever feel the need to sew myself a tailored jacket I’m sure this series will be an excellent resource.
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Anita - Sounds fantastic!

Gail - I’m so looking forward to this series, Sunni, and I really appreciate the time I know you’ll put into it.

Personally, I don’t really have a fear of tailoring – it’s just that I don’t know enough about the techniques and materials involved to do it. I’m thinking it will be much like anything else: once you know how to do it, it’s not a big deal!

Bec - I’ll Definitely be referring back to this when the time comes:)
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Lynn - I am looking forward to the fusible version of the series. I come from a family of tailors and seamstresses. I learned how to tailor using traditional methods in my teens, but was never introduced to the idea of using fusible interfacings. Live and learn.

K-Line - I find the two most challenging elements are fit (it’s got to fit beautifully – not to loose or tight – in order to look “expensive”)and setting in the sleeves. But neither is hard enough to undermine the urge to undertake the entire experience. (Not very experienced, fwiw.)

Angela - Oh my… so many parts are a bit intimidating! I guess that is what is scary, so many little things that might go wrong, and make the whole thing look “beck-homecky” and I won’t want to wear it after all that work. Still, I really want to try this!

Are you going to tell us the pattern you are using? I would prefer to be able to look at what you are doing and know that I need to do the same thing that I see in the picture, rather than worrying about subtle changes in a different pattern.

Lena Merrin - I have a soft spot for tailoring. I love how the fabric responds to steam, molds to desired shape. I have done some padstitching and I think there is hardly anything that will give you this amount of control and such flexibility yet stability.
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Alaskapsych - Frankly, as far as sewing goes, I think I could do about anything if I had good instructions. What really scares me is fitting!

Erika - I’ve only made one tailored project, and it was all hand-stitched. Looking forward to seeing the difference between the two techniques as you go along! Pad-stitching by hand worked great on my thick winter-coat wool, but for the suit I have in mind to make in the future I’m sure it would be a lot better to fuse.
Based on my experience with heavy and thick wool, I find pressing the most intimidating. To get that flat and crisp look without any sheen or pressmarks… I made 8-10 press-samples before putting the iron to my fabric and on a few places the pressing is still a little bit off. Not that anyone notices, fortunatly =)

Tasha - For me, since I’m working on my first jacket, the fear of tailoring is gone since I’ve been reading so much, lol (though it’s not a very tailored jacket– more casual/sporty). One of the areas I struggle with a bit is when I don’t find explanations for *why* a technique is being employed. For some reason in all the tailoring resources I’ve been pouring over, that’s sometimes an issue. Because if I don’t know exactly *why* to do something (or not to), I can’t easily apply that to another project. It’s fine when a particular example/pattern is being used, but if I want to take that knowledge to another pattern where the style and shape are different, I want to make sure I get the reasoning behind each technique. But maybe that’s me just being too anal. ;)
Tasha recently posted..40s jacket progress: supplies and such

Tasha @ Stale Bread into French Toast - I’m pretty excited about this! I consider myself an experienced sewist, but I’ve never tailored a jacket, and I would love to do so when my winter coat finally bites the dust, which may be next season . . .

I would love it if you mentioned a bit about the third method, machine tailoring, as you go, maybe not with illustrated examples and all, but just to get an idea of what the other option would be if we readers wanted to research it further. I realize that it’s already a huge project for you to take on, so if you don’t want to add anything about it, I understand. I think this is going to be awesome to see side by side!
Tasha @ Stale Bread into French Toast recently posted..All’s Well That Ends Well, but Please, Don’t Put Your Wool in the Washine Machine

annie - I am so excited about this post. I just bought a Vogue tailored jacket pattern today as I decided I wanted to try a tailored jacket. Number one because the tailored suit styles seem to be very “vogue” at the moment and number two because I want to challenge myself.
I couldn’t believe it when I opened my computer and saw this post on the same day!
I can’t wait to see your series and I love your obsession jacket!
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Angela - I’m really looking forward to getting more educated about tailoring techniques. I sewed a jacket with a notched collar many years ago, but have not attempted any sort of tailoring since.

Kate - Yay tailoring! Were you not a wee bit disappointed that the contestants on Project Runway did not know how to make jackets or collared shirts for men? Never made a collar stand? What? A peplum on a man’s jacket? What, What, What? Go Sunni!

3.7.13

the Myth that is Perfect Fit


image source – note that the image says just right, not perfect

I was teaching a class on fit just last night and I had an awesome bunch of ladies who were just great. We had a lot of fun. There was a moment in the class when I made the claim that there is no such thing as perfect fit. One of the ladies in the class disagreed with me stating that, “there is such a thing as perfect fit, but for many of us it is unattainable.” Now, I don’t mean to put anyone up on the chopping block and I certainly think that everyone has a right to their own view, but as someone who has fit and overfit myself many times and has fit many others of various body shapes and sizes, I absolutely can not agree. I do not believe in perfect fit – even if it did exist, at what cost does it come?

This is not to say that there is no such thing as bad fit – there is. Especially when it comes at the cost of our comfort, which I believe should be the first call to order. If something is not comfortable, in the way that it should be comfortable (note: strapless gowns will never feel like pajamas so let’s not go there) then something needs to be done to the fit to make it feel better. For myself this includes a broad upper back adjustment so that I can put my arms in front of me without pain in the sleeve. Does that make sense?

This is also not to say that there isn’t such a thing as good or great fit – there is and its worth your time to get a book or two on how to fit your body. I’ve seen plenty of garments that have absolutely wonderful fit and I don’t usually notice flaws in the fit unless I’m looking for them. And even then, usually if there is a flaw in the fit I only notice because someone points it out ie: the person who stitched it. After looking at yourself in the mirror a bazillion times and trying on the garment at several stages and all that jazz who wouldn’t notice every single wrinkle and fitting imperfection?

Aspiring to perfect fit is absolutely crazy – and it will make you crazy too. Ask me how I know – seriously because I could give you volumes as to why this is soooooo maddening! Aspire to fit your garments well, not perfectly. Let things slide that really don’t add to the overall fitting quality of the garment or especially if its not that big of a deal and you can’t for the life of you figure out how to fix it. Here’s a quote from one of my favorite authors that really puts the cap on perfectionism, in any form, for me:

“Once a close friend gave me a priceless gift. She convinced me that my sanity is much more important than the subtle nuances that I adore. The subtle nuances are the essence of perfection. The subtle nuances trigger the “Ah” response. But a life spent seeking the subtle nuances leaves little time to enjoy the big picture.”
—Sarah Ban Breathnach

Instead of seeking the subtle nuance of perfect fit, just make yourself some great clothes and stop haggling with your sanity over the price of tea in China, I mean a wrinkle here or there.

What do you think? Is perfect fit attainable? Do you drive yourself bonkers with trying to achieve perfect fit? Jump in – this conversation is all about your opinion! Maybe you don’t agree with me – you have the right! I want to hear why.

Filed in: Discussions | Sewing
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sewing princess - I believe perfect fit is attainable…but you need to invest time and patience to achieve it. I started being interested in fitting a garment properly when I realized my sleeves were not fitting well and this caused pulling in the garment. So in the end my me-made garments were not as comfortable as ready-to-wear. Since the whole point in making your own garments is also achieving good fit (OK it’s also because I have fun sewing and making stuff myself!) I thought it was worth investigating.
A wrinkle here and there is not a big deal, but at least I want to ensure my sewn wardrobe is as good as a non-perfectly fitting ready to wear…:o)

Diane @ Vintage Zest - Honestly, I totally love that you said there the perfect fit is a myth. I’m still a novice, and there are times that I think the pattern actually fits me perfectly and I wonder what I’m missing. Sometimes there are huge adjustments to be made, which are obvious. However, most of the time, I think that no matter how much I fiddle with the fabric, it will only look 5% better!

Also, I am afraid to make things perfectly tailored because on any given day, my weight fluctuates a bit here and there. Therefore, if I were to take it in just a bit more, my favorite party dress can only be worn if the time is right. That doesn’t seem like it would be a perfect fit for my closet!
Diane @ Vintage Zest recently posted..A Study in Fuschia – Sherlock Holmes’ Pink Cape

kathi giumentaro - I agree with you. I have seen many people on their blogs over fit their garments. I have seen what I believe to be a great fit on someone only to have them continue to tweak the fit. I saw one women make 5 muslins and in the end she went back to her second one and the fit was fine. We have wrinkles in our clothing because we move. We’re not mannequins standing still all day.
I agree that how the garment feels is very important.
I do have to say that the dress Halle Berry wore to the Oscars did look like it fit her perfectly. I am sure there was a lot of tape involved. The dress looked like it was molded to her body. Again that is Hollywood and not our real life.

Susan - I decided early last year to stop driving myself crazy seeking to attain “the perfect fit”. I relaxed about it and set about to have a “good fit” –and oddly, since that decision my clothes fit beautifully. The clothes I’ve made over the last year have not only fit me better but looked overall nicer and better suited to my lifestyle. Hardly a day goes by that I’m not wearing something I’ve made. And I think it all fits fine!

Kristin - I completely agree that the perfect fit is not attainable. I think great fits can certainly be acheived, but nothing can ever be perfect. Honestly, I may not be the best person to speak of this but because I don’t believe in the perfect fit or the perfect garment, I don’t agnoize at all when something isn’t exactly perfect, especially because I know that no one will be able to tell unless I point it or perhaps they have the observation skills of Sherlock Holmes, in which case nothing will ever be perfect so why bother?

I also have to say that this hits me a little personally too, which also means I’m reading entirely too much into this(!), because I just finished watching both America the Beauitiful documentaries. In case you haven’t heard of them, both generally focus on how people, esp women, feel about themselves and their bodies and their image. Imagining someone say the perfect fit is unattainable for them, that they COULD achieve the perfect fit “if only x was different…” makes me so sad. We should all embrace our different, unique quirks and understand that to acheive perfection is not worth it.

Ahem, anyway, sorry to hijack your post, that was what just sprang to my mind! Also, I just love the quote above and generally the entire post.
Kristin recently posted..Finished: Silhouette Pillows for Valentine’s Day

Maria - I believe one can achieve a perfect fit on a manequine. When there is no movement involved, no need for ease here and there that will show a little extra in a form of a wrinkle or two under certain angles. But while fitting for a person, one should have two things in mind – proportions and comfort. Once you achieve a good balance, when a garment doesn’t limit free movement and works well with proportion of the body it is being fitted for, it is as good as it gets.

LadyD - I have never looked for the perfect fit…I don’t belive its attainable unless you are a shop dummy. I’m quite happy if something fits comfortably I don’t go for all this I’m such n such measurements so I need to do a FBA etc. Instead I try it on if I can move freely without it falling off I’m fine with it…as for wrinkles well that’s what in irons for isn’t it ;)
Its like I have a dress I’m sewing technically it should fit snugly but it came out looser coz of the ease but I can live with it…not the end of the world. I may put on weight when I’ll be glad of the extra ease.

layla - Brilliant! I wish you could come and explain this to some of my maddeningly perfectionist students! I’m going to read them the quote and see if it helps. Thanks.

sallie - This reminds me a lot of a conversation I had with my students in an Art History class I was teaching. I was trying to explain that Greek statues did not represent an individual, but rather an ideal that did not exist “in nature” and my students argued with me, saying that a figure like a Greek statue COULD exist, it just wasn’t any of us. How sad! It makes me think that the belief in perfection as a standard is something that is deeply ingrained in us (perhaps to constantly make us feel like we fall short…?)
Regardless, I’m with you – I don’t believe in “perfect” … anything! Especially not perfection in sewing or fitting. I, like you, aspire to have my me-made garments fit my body comfortably and effortlessly. And I think you can get pretty near “perfection” by lightening up a little. Most of the times its all in our own heads anyway.

Becky - I think perfection in anything is static, and life is not static. Perfection requires that we stand still in the river of life, and real people cannot do that. Who doesn’t gain and lose 5 pounds every six months? Who isn’t subject to the continued effects of gravity? At my age, I am constantly reassured that gravity exists, believe me! I say that good enough is just that, good enough. Or as my mother so wisely put it when she sewed for me when I was growing up, “oh well, it will never be seen on a galloping horse”!

Katherine - I guess it just depends on what your definition of “perfect fit” is. For me, the perfect fit results in a comfortable garment, that looks good and I feel great wearing. If there are a couple extra wrinkles, what does it matter? Clothes are not our skin, nor do they need to be as “perfect” fitting as that. We need some room to move and live in our clothes, not have them take over our lives if we’re making them.

Tessa - I’m teaching kid’s sewing right now, and even as children we have this desire to make things perfect. They feel like if it didn’t come out the way they had it in their head, it is a failure. Not so! I try to gear my projects for them to ones that encourage the creative process rather than “getting it perfect”. Perfection is loose, intangible, and ever evolving. They’re like your dreams at night, nice to think of from time to time, but a little too weird to try to live out the real world. Great post, very timely for me. Thank you.
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MrsSmith - I’m new to sewing but that isn’t the reason why I agree. I will NOT sit and spend months and hours making muslin after muslin to try to “perfectly” fit an everyday garment. I could see if you were making a gown (wedding, other special occassion, etc) but I’m not making several muslins for a BLOUSE! lol!

Nothing against those that do…I’d rather have things that I like to wear and like to make. I don’t want sewing to become some chore that I dread because it’s going to take me a month to make a shirt…

Kelly - Well, this comes at the perfect time…I was just about to start a third muslin….for a T-shirt. And you know what? The second muslin looks pretty good. And I don’t really know how to make it perfect, and it’s a T-shirt!! So I am going to get over it and just sew the darn thing already :) Thanks for saving my sanity a little.

Linb - Even if there IS “perfect fit,” it would only work if you never moved or breathed while wearing the garment. You can, indeed, perfectly fit a mannequin. I am not a mannequin, therefore I am quite satisfied with “adequate fit.” If I can achieve “good” or “great” fit, that’s a very welcome bonus!

Rachel - I am no sewing expert, but I totally agree with you about there not being a perfect fit. I decided early on in my sewing that if I strived for total perfection that I would kill any joy I had in sewing. I try for a good fit, but not a perfect one because it will never happen. I don’t worry if the top of the zipper on my dress is not perfect because my hair will cover it. I am still working on sewing good fitting pants, but I have about decided that will never happen for me. I am just going to have to get the best fit I can or either not wear them.

Lynn - I have always thought the goal of fitting is to make sure the wearer is comfortable and that the garment is flattering. I have been sewing since I was a child and making clothes for myself and others for decades. Focusing on making muslins and tweaking for perfect fit can be disheartening. For me, trying so hard for perfection takes the fun out of creating. Measure the pattern, make obvious adjustments, try a muslin if need be to be how the garment feels and whether it suits the wearer. Fix obvious problems but don’t become obsessed over every wrinkle. Enjoy making lovely things that fit and suit you better than rtw. And don’t, please don’t, tell people about whatever you think you did wrong when they compliment you! Say thank you and add with pride, “I made this!”.

Meli - This is a great post! I agree, there’s no such thing as perfect fit.. The clothes are an imitation of the body, and therefore can never compete with the perfection that is the human form. We can fit well, to a point, but I think that even that is a set of social standards of what looks good and of how to best represent the human form.

Betsy - Fit is totally subjective. For some good fit is equal to tightness, or for others is can be proportions. Either way it depends on your point of view.
For me good fit is when I make a pattern that can fit a lot of different bodies with minimal adjustments needed. In my line of work it is more about fitting many, not just one.

Claire - I completely agree with you. All of the clothes I have made are a good or great fit. Comfort is incredibly important to me mainly because my stomach can bloat fairly often through a day! Attempting a perfect fit when this happens is just not realistic. Plus life is too short, I want to sew more garments than reaching for perfection would allow!

Peter - I agree wtih Betsy — fit is subjective. I’d rather talk about proportion, which is easier to get right, though of course that’s subjective too. I think the important thing is getting what look and feels right to oneself, for the purpose that one is going to use/wear the garment. If it feels perfect for me, than it is, right?

Mainelydad - I’m no expert on fitting, and quite honestly I don’t want to be. I came to the whole issue of fitting because I started with a Japanese pattern book. Nothing fit me! So I was forced to learn a little, and it’s been enough. If I wanted a hobby that’s all about perfection I guess I’d take a course in mathematics. Ugh.

Tasha - This is such a great line of thinking. I think we can obsess over fit until the cows come home. I don’t strive for perfection, even if on occasion I have to remind myself I don’t have to hold myself to the standards other people may hold themselves to. And what is a perfect fit, anyway? The garment looks perfect when I’m standing still? Eating a sandwich? Or how it’s actually functioning? I don’t know that the two are always one and the same.

I myself can only obsess about it to a point. I want a good fit. I want to feel good about what I’m wearing, and feel good IN what I’m wearing. And feel good about what I created. That to me is more important than fitting to death and obsessing over ever single wrinkle or drag line.
Tasha recently posted..40s jacket progress: the muslin

Jen - Well, I suppose it depends upon how one defines perfect. I suspect there may be some variation between people. Hey, sometimes “perfect” might just mean that it’s done and I can get the waistband buttoned.

In a broader sense, if “perfect” means an ultimate aesthetic ideal, then it’s a complex thing. Aesthetic ideals are usually combination of cultural and personal preferences. These are constantly evolving factors. So in a sense, “perfect” might just be a moment in space and time, captured. This is can be observed in visual art, but I think it affects broader ideas as well. I think “fit” ideals are probably a combination of fashion and self-perception and/or body perception. What is the ideal fit is discretionary, and so it is subject to a changing notion of “perfect” as well.

~Jen

Bec - Ermm perfect fit, I can’t even get Right fit happening sometimes!
Great quote :)

carol - Sewing has brought me to the reality of a wonderful concept : perfect enough .

Eleanor (undeadgoat) - I recently realized that part of the reason I haven’t made myself many garments recently is because I am afraid I can’t make things that fit perfectly–I gain and lose a few pounds regularly, and occasionally go through severe digestive distress, and these factors combined last year to rip a hole in the waistband seam of my overfitted Lonsdale–I was sucking in at the thinnest I’ve ever been to make the envelope measurement, truth be told. I’ve used this information to inform myself as a designer, and I actually try and avoid seams on expansion points like the true waist, using princess seams, dropped waists & underbust seams for figure flattery & to accommodate figure changes. But at the same time, in class I almost always have to make my clothes fit dress forms, not models or myself, and I personally do require some sort of alteration in the upper back which I haven’t figured out because I don’t actually sew for myself very much. But I just thought I’d throw out another reason that perfect fit doesn’t exist–because our bodies are NOT static!

Kristi - I agree that perfection is unattainable, and not worth striving for. For me, it takes the joy out of sewing. Getting good fit is sooo important to me, though. That is what lets me wear a style I couldn’t in RTW because my really narrow upper back makes almost every woven top bubble ridiculously in the back. I guess the trick is finding the line between good & perfect and leaving it alone there. Still figuring that line out!

Jen - TOTALLY agree with you! I’ve seen a lot of really over-fitted, over-worked garments in my time and they don’t fit any better than if the person had stopped about 10 tweaks in. I agree that “perfect fit” is comfort, ability to move and no obvious glaring fitting imperfections, but I think that sewists are so much harder on themselves than if they were purchasing from a store, even if the store was quite expensive!
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Kelly - It’s mainly a just an argument in semantics, but I think perfection may be attainable if you consider that people have different concepts of what perfect fit is. I’ve made a few things that I describe as fitting perfectly, but I only say that because I’m excited that they both look pretty good and are comfortable to wear, not because they are actually fitted to absolute visual perfection. Maybe I should say instead that they fit exactly the way I want them to, but why not just say perfectly? Wearing ease, design ease, cultural expectations, and so many other factors make the issue of an objective perfect fit very complicated, and I think we are probably better off when we try to think about what we want from a garment rather than some abstract, and yes, mythical ideal fit.
Kelly recently posted..dressing for a new life

Jenny - I think perfection is like the carrot in front of the donkey. Just when we thing we got there, it moves a little farther out of reach. Perfection is unattainable,as it should be. If we could be perfect we’d lose all the joy of the journey.

Carlee - The perfect fit= a latex body suit.

But I guess it might be inappropriate for everyone to walk around like a dominatrix all the time. HA.

But for real: I think the perfect fit is attainable, but I think it takes years to get it right. And honestly, who has time for that?! Close enough is good enough for me.
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Sara - I think that perfect fit does not exist in wovens, but it can happen in knits.

Kathy L - I’m so happy your wrote this article because I’ve just come back to sewing after many years away with the idea that I’m going to learn how to fit myself in order to make clothes I like & want to wear. So, I’ve been taking a Craftsy class on fit & there’s a lot to learn & a lot to remember. And, as I attempt to follow her guidelines I keep asking myself if I’m doing it right. So there is that pressure (personal pressure) to do everything just right. Having read your comment on fit I could feel my mind relax. I realize I have to allow myself to try & fail & do it all over again, if need be. Thank you, Sunni, for such timely advice. I will try to remember what you said as I make my way through this process.

Roger - People don’t pay for bespoke tailoring because they think it fits ‘a bit better’ than ready-to-wear. It fits exceptionally well, in fact as perfect a fit for that particular customer as a unique draft and several fittings can achieve.

The images in your post seem to refer to an off-the-peg idea of perfect fit and less to fitting unique customers. Playing on the word ‘perfect’ as a commonly unattainable ideal is a metaphysical discussion that is beside the point. The real point is that it’s possible to achieve the ideal fit for a person with proper fitting, which is the core of any custom cutter/tailor’s skill.

Summer - Thank you for this! I don’t believe in perfect fit either, in part because we’re constantly moving so the fit is constantly changing. My body is never exactly the same size and shape as the day I sew or buy a garment, either.

I’m sewing trousers right now and am focusing on fitting them well, not overfitting, and fixing the problems without getting mired down in details. I’d like to be able to wear them this spring, too!
Summer recently posted..Ugh, Pockets

Anthea - I do believe in a perfect fit. Last year I’ve seen it. A dress a woman made with a 100 % perfect fit, it was beautiful! I was so impressed.

But I also believe it’s really hard to achieve the perfect fit, especially when it’s a complex design and you have no help with fitting the garment. It can also take a lot of patience and time to get there.

When I started sewing again I was really focused on a perfect fit. But I also realised that it’s not easy to get and that experience will help getting there. So now I try to be satisfied with a less then perfect fit and hopefully I will get it someday!

I have limited sewing time and I’m already a slow sewer, so I compromise with a good fit, otherwise I would only sew a few garment during a year.

Sarah - Oh this is so timely for me. I’ve been obsessing all day after a sleeve wrinkle only to remember I’d changed the seam allowance and set it in wrong! I do obsess over fit with self made things compared to RTW. I think it’s because I don’t want my things to look too ‘handmade’ and I worry that a poor fit contributes to a handmade look, but in a bad way. There’s nothing more disappointing than spending hours on a garment to find its a sloppy fit, and conversely nothing better than finishing it up, putting it on and thinking ‘that’s not bad at all’! I say do the best you can, learn from each project – there’s just so many amazing resources on the interwebs such as this awesome blog that its almost impossible to not get better with practice!

Kathy - I read this with interest today – it landed on my computer on a day when I was battling this very topic. I am working to ‘perfect’ a basic dress/hip-length block for me…and my unique body. I am not too fussed with perfection, but I would like to have a way to create some basic garments with ease, without time consuming fitting each time!

JanaL - After thousands of hours fitting clothing to myself I would agree! I have a very difficult body to fit because I have scoliosis, and I have spent MANY hours trying to find the perfect fit.

Not all of it has been in vain. I have perfected my upper body sloper so that I am really quite pleased with the results, and I would even dare say all the pain and frustration were worth creating this sloper. Granted, it isn’t “perfect”, but it is so much more comfortable than anything I will ever buy, and looks much better on me too.

The bottom half has been a different story. I have made dozens and dozens of slopers trying to find that pair of pants that doesn’t have any wrinkles. After observing the backs of many people’s pants I made a brilliant observation….no one, not anyone I have ever seen, has a perfectly wrinkle-free backside, especially when moving. Ah ha! Yes, you are right that there is a difference between bad fit and good fit, and striving for a good fit is a worthy goal, but trying for that perfect fit….insanity!

Stephanie - Oh man. I totally agree. I really struggle with fit because my body is so oddly proportioned. It’s also the reason I got into sewing. The things I make generally fit better than RTW.
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Ruth - Once you distinguish between wearing ease and style ease and add or remove the appropriate amount of each according to the shape of the wearer and required design, then perfect fit is easily attainable. The problem appears to be that some people who sew confuse “the perfect fit” with the word “tight” or “completely unwrinkled when in motion”. These are both foolish ideas and have never been what professionals mean by “perfect fit”. Frankly, you seem to be setting up a straw man here and its not doing inexperienced dressmakers any favours. Do a couple of sensible posts about wearing ease and style ease and then talk about fit, and it might make sense.

Janel - I think “perfect fit” is relative and personal. You can drive yourself bonkers over almost anything. Garments that don’t grab me in the shoulders, gap at the waist and cut across my thighs AT THE SAME TIME fit PERFECTLY! as far and I’m concerned. Learning when good enough is good enough can’t be universally defined. Perspective is everything. Your mileage will vary. :)
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Margaret - This is enough for me to throw up a halleluja and I’m not even churchy. I get soooo frustrated with guys who come into my studio for alterations and just can’t get their head around why I can’t give them that PERFECTly slim, trim, snug, custom made look. Ladies too. When you start with a ready-made garment, you can only do so much.

Would you consider 1. allowing me to use the graphic and a snippet of your post with permission on my blog?

2. Doing a post on why men and women should not get hung up on manufacturer sizing at the expense of an ill-fitting garment?

3.6.13

Quick PSA

That’s Public Service Announcement, in case you didn’t know. I usually don’t know what those types of things mean. Like LOL – for the longest time I thought it was the sound you make when you laugh and that’s why people put it in text messages. Also BFF – for the life of me, I could not figure out why anyone would want to be a Big Fat Friend, but then I found out it really stood for Best Friends Forever. Who knew?

Anyway, I’m here to just fill you in on a little something. There’s going to be a birthday sale over at the shop. Want in on the sale – sign up for the newsletter.  Just in case you were worried about the newsletter thing, don’t be. I don’t send out that many newsletters and when I do, I just try to fill y’all in on stuff in the shop. Like this sale, because A Fashionable Stitch officially turns 2 tomorrow! Just sayin, don’t miss out if you don’t want to! Yay!

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Maggie - Congrats on turning two and Happy Birthday!
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Bec - Congrats on turning 2! :)
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Amanda - Wow, 2 years! Congrats indeed. :) I’m currently using hair canvas, tailor’s tape, and the button spacer thingy from your shop and am very pleased with them. And I too don’t always know what these acronyms mean – they really are all over the sewing blogosphere!