Over the course this year so far, you’ve seen my adoration for a certain button up sewing pattern (McCall’s 6649) and then a couple of hacks of things I’ve made from it (here and here). I thought I would take a sec, stop down and say a little more about it. It’s exciting. Well, at least I think so.
Hopefully this post will help clear up some questions I’ve been getting and hopefully it will show you that you can take a pattern and hack it up and not have to re-invent the fitting wheel. This is a skill I’ve cultivated over several years and one that is well worth the time invested and when you get to the pattern drafting part, it’s really quite fun to learn (in like a scrapbooking sort of way!). In my recent hack of my beloved McCall’s 6649, I mentioned a Craftsy class I had taken. One Pattern, Many Looks with Sarah Holden. I enrolled in the class last year sometime and then it sat in my Craftsy cue for many months. One night, I was really tired and decided to watch this Craftsy class as I was sitting in bed. I watched all the episodes right there and then. I was riveted and I was so excited to get up and get started in the morning. Dreamt of pattern hacks all night! Yessssss!
The class takes you through this pretty fascinating process. First you’re supposed to fit the pattern. This process actually took a few weeks (the longest part of this whole business) because I wanted something that truly, was perfect and that usually means, for me, that I work out any and all kinks in a pattern by making it up at least 3 times. Seriously, 3 times is the charm. I have some more thoughts about the fitting process in my next post, but yeah, I made this shirt up a good 3 times (and then one more time, making that 4 times!!) before I moved on to the rest of the content of the class. Update: Just so you are aware, this Craftsy class does not cover anything about fitting! It’s only about pattern drafting and manipulation.
After a perfect fit, then it was time to reverse engineer the pattern back to sloper form. What is a sloper? In the most basic terms, a sloper is a base pattern, without seam allowances, from which other patterns can be created or hacked from. You can have different types of slopers. For example, you can have bodice, sleeve, dress, pants, etc. From there you can even have varying types of those basic patterns like a button-up shirt sloper or a raglan sleeve sloper. The idea is that you’ll start forming an entire collection of base patterns that are closer in idea to what you want an end pattern to be. More colors in a crayon box if you will.
Anyway, back to McCall’s 6649. I created a sloper from this pattern and transferred all of the pertinent markings to posterboard. All of the seam allowances have been cut off here and there are holes and notches in specific places. Putting a pattern like this on posterboard is fantastic because then when I’m ready to create a new top from this pattern, I can just trace it off in a matter of seconds. The posterboard is stiff so you can just trace around it really easily.
In the Craftsy class, Sarah shows you some really great hacks. And these are just starting points. I mean you really do have the entire world at your feet when you start creating your own patterns – from patterns that already fit you! Since you’ve already addressed the fit, that tends to not be a problem anymore. You might run into some issues here and there, but they are minimal by comparison.
All in all, I’m very very pleased with how my hacks have turned out from this process. It took a lot of time, but was well worth the investment. Onward and upward from here. Have you gone through this process before? What kinds of slopers do you have? If you haven’t, I can’t recommend something like this enough. You learn a ton about fitting and about your body and what things you should be looking out for when you go to try a new sewing pattern. Plus then there’s the creative gratification that comes from creating a pattern of your very own. Fun, fun!
Last week, the mister and I had some reality checks and we made some pretty big decisions and well, here goes. We have decided to close the Sewing Room. There are oh, so many reasons, but the biggest one right now is that touchy subject – money. There’s just not enough of it in our lives right now. It was kind of a hard week for me. Moping about and wondering what in the world I’m going to do with the rest of my life. What am I going to do about retirement? What am I going to do when I actually grow up? Will we ever have kids? Will we ever own a home? That kind of stuff. I mean, I’m 32 (almost 33 in just a few weeks) and well, what am I going to do with the rest of my life??? Sometimes when reality slaps you right in the face, it feels like you need to start all over with a whole new dream, meet new people, go back to school, la la la. It can also feel like everything you’ve done up to this point was a mistake, should never have happened and didn’t turn out right. While I don’t feel that way per se, these thoughts have run through my head a lot lately.
It’s not all sad or bad and hopefully I’m not putting a bad vibe out there. I do actually feel great and positive. We were able to get out of the lease on the brick and mortar building we’ve been in for the past year and a half and wow – that elephant on my chest is finally gone. And I’m truly looking forward to picking up the pieces of what I have left and making something of it. I’ve dealt with a lot of bad juju for the past year and a half and I’m excited to recede back from the limelight of being a brick and mortar owner of anything. We might try something similar in the future again, but for now, I’m good with being done.
It’s been one of those times when I’ve thought long and hard about a lot of things and I’m looking forward to picking back up where I left off before I became a brick and mortar shop owner. The online shop is still open and will remain so, and we have some ideas for the future, though I’ll not say anything about those as they’re not even close to materializing or being a thing. We’ve still got lots and lots of kinks to work through.
So that’s my big bad news. A little crummy, but hopefully you can understand where I’m at. Feels good to be discovering new things about myself through new experiences. Don’t feel like it’s been a mistake, just a big learning experience that seriously, I’ve learned so much from. I’ll keep you updated on future stuff. Thanks to all of you for your wonderful support, encouragement and well, kindness. I’ve needed that!
A number of things have started happening around here. We are getting ready to break some sad news. Ugh, so not looking forward to that, but sometimes this is the way things go. I’ll be talking more about this in my next post. I’ve been sewing like a crazy person and just making, making, making. Feels good. So while I have bad news to break, I’ve also been productive and feeling positive.
This is another McCall’s 6649 pattern hack. Don’t believe me? Let’s start from the neck down and I’ll give you the play by play here.
- got rid of the collar and changed the neckline
- made a forward shoulder yoke
- got rid of the bust dart in the front and didn’t sew in the waist dart
- turned the back darts into princess seams
- retained the hemline in the back and straightened the hemline in the front
- the sleeve was shortened and cut on the bias and then I added tabs for visual interest
If you’re wondering what you can do with a basic pattern – like McCall’s 6649 – well, I’ll be here showing you what I do. If you’re interested, I took this class on Craftsy – One Pattern, Many Looks with Sarah Holden. Highly, highly recommend. It’s about pattern drafting, and getting the most from a TNT (tried and true sewing pattern). It’s a class that I would definitely recommend for anyone. It’s just really good and it helps you think outside the box instead of thinking that a shiny new sewing pattern is the answer. Not saying that it wouldn’t be the answer, I’m just saying that before you go fit-fighting with yet another sewing pattern, you might be able to create something similar by using a pattern that already fits you! Soapbox officially ended.
So, some more things you should know. I have a ton of lace leftover from my brick and mortar shop and I thought to myself, just cuz it’s ivory and white does not mean that you can’t use it for something that is not a wedding. And I made this top especially to go with jeans. No joke. The hemline length and style were meant to be worn with my jeans. I didn’t want it too over the top, but I’m into bling if I can get away with it and this is one of those times where I’m pretty sure I did. What do you think?
That said, while I’m loving the style and beauty of this blouse, I don’t know that I feel this color does me any favors. Looks very much like my skin tone – but I’m still going to wear it! With pride!
If you’re curious, this is the art deco lace from the shop. I paired it with a silk charmeuse that I had, and then also made the sleeve from the double georgette that is in the shop. Fancy, huh? To be honest, this is one of those types of blouses that I tell everyone else to make all the time and then never do it myself. I’ve seen this sort of trend a lot – having the blouse front be a different fabric (or lace overlay) from the back – and since I have a bit of lace myself, I thought it would be great to try.
I made my jeans too. They are a rub-off from the jeans you’ve seen me in in a few of my lasts posts. I pilfered the back pocket from Closet Case Files awesome Ginger jeans and then I followed several of Heather’s tutorials and insights into jeans via her Ginger sewalong. She did such an amazing job with that which is no surprise. I have plans to try the Gingers in the not too distant future. They look pretty awesome on everyone I’ve seen make them so far.
Well, that’s it for today. Have you ever worked with lace?
What are we on here? Numero 7? Yup, you guessed it. This is another Hollyburn skirt. (And for those of you just joining me, the Hollyburn is a most beloved skirt sewing pattern put out by Sewaholic).
I’ll not sport too much with your intelligence about this make. It’s wool crepe – one of our lovely springy colors, which have been marked down in the sale section and of which there is only a bit more left! Who knew the bright aqua would be so exciting? Yowza. This one is shorter and as per, fully lined.
I had to do a polka dot top again. Who knew that my rapidly growing button-up collection looked so cute tied at the waist with this skirt? Loving this look, which I’ll have you know, I’ve never sported before.
Now for some meat and potatoes. I had plans to make this skirt in this wool crepe anyway, but after a fairly harrowing button-up shirt for Mr. AFS, this got pushed directly to the top. It’s one of my TNT’s (tried and true pattern) and it’s a definite sew-jo inducer. I cut this out one day and sewed it up the next – well, all except the hem. I let that hang for a few days. From there I jumped right back on the sew-jo wagon and got to work on another button-up for myself and then cut out a tweed dress, which has been reduced to a pencil skirt, but more on that another time.
I decided a few things after this make. First, all projects must be finished – I am no longer going to do UFOs. Second, when a pretty hard sewjo killing project is over, it’s time to whip out a sewjo inducing TNT. At first I thought, well, that’s not going to be very fun, I don’t have that many TNTs. When I started looking around, surprisingly, I have MANY TNTs. I have 3 skirt patterns, a button-up shirt, a pair of slacks, jeans, a jacket, a sheath dress and a t-shirt. That’s a wardrobe right there, if I’m not mistaken. Third, after every sewing project is completed, my personal sewing room must be cleaned up and made ready for another project. I don’t know about you, but when I sew in a really, really messy room, I tend to get nothing done because I keep looking forlornly at the mess and wondering what to do!
Last, but not least on my efforts to keep my sew-jo alive, I’ve decided to start creating lists of projects to complete and get ready for. I love the scheming part of sewing, but more often than not, the scheming is where it ends because I forget. So I’ve decided to employ a list of inspirations and also a list of my next sewing project plans. This helps me plan better and from there, I create more outfits instead of white elephants.
What do you do to keep your sew-jo around? Tips and tricks?
This is one of my first pattern hacks for my beloved McCall’s 6649 (sadly out of print now, boo hoo, but you could achieve the same look with the Sewaholic Granville!). Nothing really major here. I extended the back yoke into a front yoke and then took the bust dart and turned them into shoulder gathers. If you’re interested, I’m posting these pattern hacks and several other mini tutorials on my Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. I love tips and so I thought you might like some of my tips here and there for various things that I’m working on at the moment.
Anyway, this shirt. For the next round, I’m thinking that I would increase the shoulder gathers a bit. There’s just not enough gathering for my taste, but outside of that, I love this shirt. It’s made from that new Cotton & Steel Bespoke double gauze. Sheesh, these guys are doing some really really really fun and exciting things.
This fabric is fairly interesting. If you love linen for its soft wrinkles then you’ll love cotton double gauze for the very same reason. I happen to adore this feature in linen and so double gauze is a natural for me. When Cotton & Steel announced that they were going to do double gauze (and then later announced that they were going to do rayon challis!!!!) I was all sorts of excited. Quickly bought up a stitch and decided that this couldn’t sit in the stash for an age. Feels good to be using fabric – and wearing it! Ha ha!
Long ago, I brought up this fun topic. What do you think of sewing clothing from quilting cotton? While this double gauze is technically not a typical quilting cotton, it is manufactured by a quilting cotton company. I have to admit that I feel that if you confine yourself to only using quilting cottons for garments you are seriously missing out on a whole world of fabric that’s available to you – even for quilting! Like seriously. Wools, silks, rayons, linens, different types of cotton – besides quilting – and then there’s a whole world of knits, not to mention all the different weaves and such from all of the different fabrics.
I’m really, really glad to see many of the quilting cotton manufacturers venturing beyond the plain weave quilting cotton, getting into voiles, lawns and even rayon challis. Very exciting. I’m hoping we see more exciting things come from them in the future. Wouldn’t you agree?
Well, if you’re already sick of seeing my McCall’s 6649, well, that’s just too bad. I’ve already made 2 more that I haven’t blogged and then I’m planning on more and more and more! Ha ha! I’ll try to keep it interesting by showing you all my future pattern hacks. I’ve got SOOOOOOOOO many for this pattern. Now, off to cut more button-ups. Hurrah for the button-up TNT (tried and true pattern).