I have a rather large announcement to make today. Something that I’ve been dying to get off my chest for a bit now actually and this coupled with other things that have happened here in the happy land of all things A Fashionable Stitch are the primary reasons I haven’t blogged as much usual.
So anyway, today I have a treat for you. There’s a free class at Craftsy with your name on it. That’s right, your name. on. it. I taught the class and can I just state for the record, there is something completely unnerving about watching yourself on tv, or the internet as the case maybe. It’s surreal. It’s weird. It’s uncanny. I can’t get over it. Whatever. We shot the classes in November and Craftsy did their crafty thing and put it all together for you in a wonderful little package and its on……. Zipper Insertions! Hip Hip Hooray! The official name of the class is Mastering Zipper Techniques and I go through, step by step, how to insert a slot seam, invisible and lapped zipper all by machine. Plus there’s a class on how to handle the slot seam and invisible zipper with a lined/faced garment. I think there’s something in there for everyone. Even if you’re an intermediate sewer, its always fun to see how someone else does something, right? I think you’ll all enjoy yourselves and hopefully pick up a tip or two along the way. I had a ball doing it all!
And if nothing else, now you can experience what I sound like. And then you can ask yourself, “Wow, does she really sound like that?” To which I would say, “That’s funny. I asked myself the exact same thing.” And I did. Like I said, it’s different watching yourself on tv. Oh, how do movie stars do it? So hop on over to Craftsy and Zipper out! Don’t forget, this class is FREE! That’s right, I said FREE FREE FREE! Knock yourselves out! Yay!
Can I geek out for just a minute more too with y’all? I don’t know if I’ve ever stated this, but my absolute, hands down, favorite movie of all time is Bridget Jones’s Diary. I’m totally silly like that. So, on my plane trip to Denver to shoot this class guess what exploded in my bag – why my BLUE chalk pen of course. It wasn’t the white one or the pink one, no it was the blue one. And there was blue on nearly all of my sewing supplies that I brought for the taping. Yup. Blue. Blue soup. My god, is that blue soup/chalk pen? Why yes, yes it is. Thank you. Very. Much.
“Do I really sound like that?”
Sunni
Hey all you Utah fabric hoarders (this would be me!) Melissa and Leanne are hosting a fabric swap!!! Don’t know what to do with yourself this Saturday – come and swap some fabric! I’ll be there swapping some fabrics, patterns and serious notions that have built up over the years. Sheesh! I’ve got a lot of stuff. But I would love to see what you’ve got too. So come and have fun. More info on Melissa’s blog here and if you do plan to come, head on over to this page here to sign up. I’ll see you there!
I’m so glad that so many of you are excited to see my progress on designing my own sewing patterns! Yay! First of all, I think its important to establish how sewing patterns are made. Commercial sewing patterns start life as a basic sewing pattern and are either drafted on paper from body measurements or they are draped onto a dressform. The basic patterns that are created from this process are called slopers or blocks. There can be many types of blocks – bodice, sleeve, skirt, jacket/coat bodices and sleeves, pants, blocks especially for knits, etc. Also keep in mind that even within block/sloper types there can be different versions depending on the amount of wearing ease the end version of a pattern is going to have. From here, these basic patterns are manipulated and turned into many of the groovier patterns that you see today. This is actually the fun part! Turning a basic style into something more….exciting.
Personally, I feel there is a difference between drafting and designing sewing patterns. When you draft a pattern, you are drafting a basic pattern from measurements or draping a pattern onto a dressform or another person’s body. Design is what you do with the pattern after you’ve got the basic pattern.
● In my book, there are several ways to go about getting the basic patterns. You can learn how to draft sewing patterns yourself, from your measurements. This can be an intimidating process to tackle without a teacher – ask me how I know. I’ve drafted several patterns before (still do), from my own measurements, and I have nothing against pattern drafting, but it can end up taking the same amount of time to fit a flat drafted pattern as it does a commercial pattern.
● You could also learn how to drape a basic sewing pattern onto a dressform – but wait. I don’t know about you, but my dress form is not a perfectly padded out version of my body. Sad, but true. So in essence my draped sewing pattern would fit my dressform, but I would have to refit it to fit me. Ha ha ha! Dressforms that are made to your measurements can cost a lot of money and though I’ve seen several people pad out their dressforms themselves, its not easy and it really does take two people to get it right. You need a draping buddy, friends.
● Additionally, you could pay someone to create a few basic patterns for you by either drafting from your measurements or draping them on your body. This is a great idea, if you have access to someone who knows how to draft sewing patterns and would be willing to work with you.
● You could also rub-off a favorite basic garment that you already have in your closet. Say you had a perfect t-shirt. Create a paper pattern from it and use it as a basis for manipulation.
● Or you can pick and choose some basic patterns from the pattern book or an independent pattern company, get the fit down and get started on your own pattern manipulation. This is the road that I’ve decided to take for this series because I feel its the most accessible.
So what’s all this basic pattern business? What defines a basic pattern? These are usually the types of patterns that are drafted and then turned into something else. The Fitting Shells put out by Vogue (dress and pants), McCall’s (btw, this one has cup sizes) and Butterick (misses and womens’) are great examples. But we must think broader too. A fitting shell will give you a basic bodice, sleeve and skirt, but what about pants, knits, jackets, coats and all of the other types of clothing out there? I think its a good idea to think about several options and take stock of the type of clothing that you wear the most.
Consider the Renfrew for t-shirts – this a great basic pattern that could easily turn into a tank top for summer, a cardigan, a hoodie, a dress, etc. What about the Clover from Colette Patterns? These little pants would be a great block for some skinny jeans. The Laurel that just came out – a great basic style semi fitted dress that could translate well into a simple button up shirt or even jacket. Yup, that’s right, I just said jacket from a dress! What you’re looking for in a basic pattern is simplicity in style and something that could be easily modified for different looks. There’s not a lot of gathering or pleating or design lines going on in the pattern but yet, you can envision some. That’s the idea! Usually basic patterns – with the exclusion of knits – have dart control meaning they have darts. Darts are what help create shape and so when you’re looking for some basic patterns, be aware that its normal to have darts. Look at the fitting shell (links above) – the bodice is darted, so is the skirt and in vintage patterns there are darts at the elbow on a sleeve. This is good because darts will give us the foundation to be able to manipulate the pattern, so look for that.
In my next post, I’ll be going over my own personal arsenal of great basic patterns and from there giving you more options for basic patterns from several different companies. In fact, you’ve probably got a lot of the same basic sewing patterns that I do. Pretty spiffy, right?
What are some great basic sewing patterns that you’ve found? What are the kinds/types of clothes that you wear the most?
Since I started teaching sewing classes last year, I’ve noticed a trend from many students who have taken classes from me. We’ll discuss fit and how it can be quite an ordeal to get a sewing pattern to fit you the way you want it to and inevitably it always moves onto, “I want to know how to make my own sewing patterns, how to create my own designs because what I see in the pattern books these days, is not what I want to make.” Admittedly, I know there are some tragic sewing patterns out there and with other sewing patterns it can be hard to see past the envelope cover – a topic for another day.
Though I would love to talk more in depth about fit, I feel that this can be a fairly personal issue and it can change quite a bit from person to person. I say, get yourself a good fitting book, like this one, and start learning how to go about fitting your handmade garments better, especially basic patterns (more on this to come). As for what’s about to come up here, I think the realm of design seems to many, nothing less than mysterious. From the standpoint of a sewing enthusiast – someone who has never gone to fashion design school but is a mega geek about sewing (that’s me!) – I think it can be a tricky road to finding out just how one goes about trying to knock off looks and styles that inspire (and work) and even come up with a unique design all their own. So I’ve decided to start a new series here.
Pattern Play. I’m going to show you my progress as I start to create my own sewing patterns. Now wait a minute – Hold the phone!!!! Does this mean that I’m starting up my own pattern company? NO! I’m just going to show you my progress as I tackle designing my own sewing patterns for personal use. Additionally, I’ve decided to do this from the vantage of the home sewer because quite frankly, that’s what I am and I’m proud of it.
I think the idea of playing designer appeals to so many of us that sew our own clothes because its one more outlet in the creative process of sewing. Not only that, but playing around with sewing patterns is really really fun. This series is all about exploration into new and exciting territory and about making it personal. Its also going to be about liberating oneself from the confines of the offerings in the pattern book and using your own imagination to come up with a design all your own.
I do hope that you are as excited as I am about this venture. Do you ever long to create some of your own designs or even recreate some of the designs from the pattern book with a pattern that already fits you? I have loads more to show and discuss with you so stay tuned for more excitement and fun!
Click on the image for a great discussion on tailoring for women!
Y’all seemed pretty keen on the idea of watching the progress of two tailored jackets – one traditionally hand tailored and the other fusibly tailored. I thought I would start this series with my thoughts on tailoring. Tailoring is a very ambiguous term these days and it seems to refer to a lot more than the art of making jackets. So let’s take down a few definitions shall we?
From the Wikipedia we get this:
“A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men’s clothing. Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men’s and women’s suits, coats, trousers, and similar garments, usually of wool, linen, or silk. The term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets. Retailers of tailored suits often take their services internationally, traveling to various cities, allowing the client to be measured locally. Traditional tailoring is called bespoke tailoring in the United Kingdom, where the heart of the trade is London’s Savile Row tailoring, and custom tailoring in the United States and Hong Kong. This is unlike made to measure which uses pre-existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is completely original and unique to each customer.”
This is very much in line with how I view tailoring. Especially the part about “a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets.” I think its important to set this distinction as I see the term tailoring thrown around a lot with regards to fit. Now this may be true of some garments – garments that are tailored to your lifestyle or tailored to your specific figure, but I’m referring to the construction techniques of a jacket. More importantly, I’m referring to the specific techniques used to shape certain areas of a jacket like the lapel, collar, shoulder, hem, sleeve cap, etc.
From what I know about tailoring, there are 3 methods: hand, machine and fusible. Many times, I intermix all three methods into one jacket. There are certain things that I just really love about hand tailoring, but other things I don’t. There are great advantages to machine and fusible tailoring too and like hand tailoring there are some things that I don’t think work as well as others but these are personal preferences and I believe will vary with your experience. Also, I truly believe that the fabric that is picked for a jacket project, will give you more direction on what tailoring method you use. For example, pad stitching on my Obsession Jacket – a cotton sateen – would have been disastrous! I am not an expert tailor and perfecting pad stitching on a smooth faced fabric is not high on my to master list. So going with a fusible method made a lot more sense to me.
In this series, I’ll be showing two of the three methods, hand and fusible. You can definitely mix and match elements from each jacket to use in one jacket of your own, but I’ll try to stick to the ideas for each with each separate jacket.
All that said, what is it specifically that scares you about tailoring a jacket? If you’ve never tried one, what is the most intimidating part about making a jacket? Any tips or tricks from you more experienced sewers?
You are most welcome to disagree, agree or other, but please keep your comments respectful of myself and others. Comments will be deleted that contain hostile or rude innuendo.
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I am excited to see your list and compare it with what I might already own! Such a great series!!
Tina - Sunni, Thank you so much for informing us of this great opportunity to learn how you insert zippers as well as, like you stated, hear your voice so we can put the sound of your voice with your blog. I love reading your blog and appreciate your wit. I do have a curiosity question, what type of zippers do you use for pants? Trousers or jeans, do you use the same in both styles? Would love to know your opinion of metal vs. coil for pants. Thanks
K-Line - This is AWESOME Sunni. Gonna go download it now…
Amanda - Sunni, this is so exciting! I’m still trying to get my head around lapped zippers so this will be a rad watch. And how awkward is being taped? I’m sure you powered through it like a boss!
Jo - Well done!! I’ve downloaded it and can’t wait to get to it – I was just wondering how I was going to get up the courage to learn about lapped zippers. Thank you!
Tasha - How exciting, congrats!! I think zippers are something that you can never see taught enough ways since you might always pick up a little something to make them better. I’ll definitely be popping over to take your class!
Tasha recently posted..Now for something completely different… The Refashioners!
LoveTheWordFrock - How exciting,I’ve really enjoyed the couple of Craftsy classes that I’ve taken (Classic Shirt & Couture Dress) and I fear zips, so this couldn’t be a better combination.
Lise Neely - Yeah! I haven’t learned zippers yet and they were next on my list. Thank you so much!
Tessa - Congratulations! I love Craftsy classes. Even though I am already a sewing teacher I still like seeing how other people teach, and I am always looking for new tips and tricks. Plus, there is no point in the sewing world where you can say, “Okay, I’ve learned it all.” I just added it to my list.
Tessa recently posted..Custom Creature Dolls
Miss Crayola Creepy - SUNNI!! This is amazing, congratulations! I’m going to go get the class right now
Miss Crayola Creepy recently posted..Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge?
Kristin - This is so great! Thanks for posting (and making it free!) – I just nabbed it and can’t wait to check it out when I get home!
Jenny - Awesome~! I’m going to watch right now ~ thanks!!
Sewing Princess - Cingratulations Sunni. It’s great…I look forward to meeting you on craftsy!
CJ - Thanks! This is something I need to practice and refine.
didyoumakethat - This is absolutely brilliant! I can’t wait to watch every moment. It’s going to be fantastic supplementary material to any sewing class or pattern that includes a zip insertion. Massive congratulations – you deserve this!
Gail - Sunni, this is SO awesome! Congratulations! I’ve already downloaded and can’t wait to watch!
Chris Lucas - Congratulations Sunni and I’ve just signed up for your class and can’t wait to watch it as I know I’ll learn some great tips from you for sure. Looking forward to joining you for more classes on Craftsy in the future too
Chris Lucas recently posted..Introducing the Lily Skirt and a Review for you
Tiffany S - ooh… I’ll have to go check that out!
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rebecca - YAYYYY
Thank you for doing this and for free?!?! amazing. I seriously leave zippers out entirely because i have never inserted a zipper I was happy about. i bet you can change all that!
can’t wait! xo
Ginger - So exciting! Congrats, girl! Can’t wait to watch it!
Ginger recently posted..Hatching Plans: Back-to-Work Wardrobe for my Sis!
Carlee - Your voice makes you sound older than I thought you were. Not like *old* older but just, not like 25. Can’t wait to watch the whole thing! Congrats
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Trice - Congrats Sunni
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trumbelina - Congraulations and thanks for this!! It will be my go to every single time I insert a zipper, seeing as I forget how to do it EVERY SINGLE TIME!
Be thankful that it was just chalk and not rancid orange juice left in your backpack that leaked all over your biology notes in highschool. Super gross.
LM - OMG!! So happy for you!!!! SO, so happy! I can’t wait the 3 more hours ’til I get home so i can watch you and hear you! And i just love the topic, and i also need it
You should have a class on drafting the perfect pencil skirt, too. maybe soon?
Congrats on the class! and to many more to come! xoxo
Becky - I am so excited about this class! I really need all the help I can get with improving my zip skills, and seeing and hearing you will be the icing on the cake. Hooray,Sunni!
Sassy T - OOo am definitely up for that. Love craftsy.
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Krentu - You sound so good!
)
Good job and many more classes to come!
This is my first time to comment your blog, but I am a big fan and I have been following you for a long time.
If I hadn’t known I would have thougt that you are a professional TV host /teacher. You are so smooth, so calm and so clear
And thank you for your inspiring blog!
Greetings form Estonia!
Krentu recently posted..Kleit kampsunist
Katrina @ Susie Homemaker, MD - Sunni, congratulations on such a BIG accomplishment! I have already signed up for the class and will be watching it ASAP. Thanks for being so awesome
Bec - Weeee, free class:) I hate zips, so this will be great
Thanks Sunni!
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Cherie - Oh how exciting for you!! I signed up for your class. I am super excited because I am really needing to know how to sew a zipper with a lining. Perfect timing. Congrats, Sunni!
Michelle - Congrats on the Craftsy class! Definitely gonna watch the class. I’ve only done invisible zips, so it’ll be fun to learn how to insert different zippers.
I totally agree with you on the “Does my voice really sound like that?” I hate listening to myself on video. It sounds like a totally different person. It’s like a don’t even know who I am anymore… LOL
Michelle recently posted..Most Difficult Shorts Ever
zoeope - Wow, thanks. will definitely check it out.
Lucinda - Wow Sunni, that rocks! It’s so great to see sewing bloggers like yourself becoming major influences in the craft community. It keeps me inspired to continue sewing and blogging, I’d love to achieve the kind of success you have had in the future.
Mary Ann - You rock my socks! I have needed this like you wouldn’t believe. Even though I consider myself an intermediate sewer, I feel like my weak spot is zippers. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
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LLBB - congrats! Looking forward to watching/listening to it
Angela - I love Craftsy, and signed up for class immediately! I am looking forward to it very much, as I have not mastered zippers as well as I would like. Are you planning on other episodes? I’d gladly buy a class from you.
Lene - Thank you so much for the zipper lessons…. And you look and sound absolutely wonderful. I look forward to learning all about zippers from your Craftsy class.
Christine - Yay Sunni! Congrats on the new class! Aren’t the Craftsy people SO nice? I have really enjoyed working with them for nearly a year now. I can’t wait to watch your class! And watching yourself? Totally torture! I feel you on that one completely. But I’m sure you’re great
SimpleFibreLife - Congratulations!
I’ve popped it into my Craftsy account and I can’t wait to watch it when I get a chance.
I’ve been struggling with zippers lately so this is a well timed coincidence.
Kate McIvor - Wow! I’m so impressed, and I can’t wait to watch it!!!
Ledys - So excited about this, Sunni, thank you!
Laura D - It’s funny. I can do all manner of things sewing, but it’s been a learning curve for zippers and buttonholes, and I still feel like I can learn new tricks. I’d never inserted one before my dad died, because for both me and my Mom, that was *his* job! (Along with threading the sewing machine… but that’s another story!)
Laura D recently posted..A new normal
MarrieB - Congrats! I can’t think of a more perfect zipper teacher. I literally look at your handpicked lapped zipper tutorial every time I put one in.
Maggie - Sunni, Congratulations!! I am surprised it took this long for you to be on Craftsy! I can’t wait to go, download and watch! Your invisible zipper tutorial is always the one I go back to. It is *the best* out there!
Rochelle New - Oh my gosh you’re on Craftsy!!!!! HOW AWESOME! I just signed up for the class. Can’t wait to watch it
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Amy - Hooray! I love Craftsy classes! I can’t wait to watch your zipper tricks!
Deborah - Omg, my coworkers and I were just quote scenes and lines from that movie at lunch today. We’re teachers – my fav is where Bridge is at the dinner party and everyone asks why she’s still single. Others – the blue soup, ironic because I teach home economics and we were in the food room. I will definitely use the tutorial with my textiles students. Thank you.
Gemma - That’s so fantastic! Do you know what, I was just thinking the other day that you’d be great on Craftsy and here you are! I’m off to sign up for your little class now and fingers crossed you’ve got some more classes lined up for us!
Katy - Awesome. Thanks a lot.
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Kerry - Congrats and thankyou! Zippers are one of those things I always need a refresher on. Hope to see you more on there!
Kerry recently posted..Eight-point snowflake
Sarah - I’ve only watched a few minutes and have already learned something. You sound and look lovely!
Ashley - Wow! Congrats! This looks very useful; I can’t wait to check it out!
Staci - Congratulations Sunni! I will definitely be adding your class to my Craftsy list. Even after dozens and dozens of zipper insertions…I still need training
Sophie o. - Congratulations! I’m really looking forward to watching this class! I’m enrolled in many Craftsy classes and I’ve learned a lot from them, even when I didn’t really expect to..
ShanniLoves... - Oh yay! I have to watch a zipper tutorial everytime I install one and I’ve been sewing for almost 3 years now. Can’t wait to watch this one!
ShanniLoves… recently posted..Sew For Victory Complete!
Michelle - How exciting (and I’ve already signed up).
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sallie - Oh! I’m so excited!! What a great idea for a class! And I just love Craftsy’s whole platform. I also love when it features names and bloggers that I admire and follow. So congrats Sunni!! Great news!
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theperfectnose - Thank you! =D
I just signed up for craftsy and got your class-thanks again for making it free. Going to start with the completely superficial parts first: you look awesome and the combo of demure+super capable is tres attractive. Gonna watch through the video now and come back here for further commenting.
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theperfectnose - zomg you are awesome. Got the sexy-teacher thing covered Jessica has nothing on you. Onto more pragmatic things-very clear and well demonstrated session that. Tweeted about it just now-hope you get heaps of signups-looking forward to more classes by you.
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Alaskapsych - I just signed up! Looks like a great experience and congratulations!
Kimberly Marsh - I am very happy for you to see you on Craftsy. You did a very thorough lesson, great job! You only seemed nervous for about the first five minutes max, you’re a natural!
PendleStitches - Congratulations…I’m off to enrol right now.
PendleStitches recently posted..A roaring success
Name That Girl Poll, Tins and A Giveaway! « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World - [...] you don’t know Sunni, go check out her new *free* zipper class on Craftsy! How great is [...]
Angela - Wow a free class on zippers? This is just what I need, can’t wait to watch. Sorry about your exploding chalk!
NuJoi1908 - I love your Craftsy class! It’s well-organized, the demonstrations are great and you are a wonderful presenter. These are techniques I can use. I’m learning a ton. Thanks!
Becky - Just found your class and THANK YOU! I always love learning new techniques to make sewing just a bit easier. I have subscribed to many Craftsy classes and yours is a perfect addition. And now your blog is in my favorites! I look forward to spending my mornings with you.
Mary Solan Avison - I’ve watched with great pleasure your class on the zippers and i have to say — well done. I’ve been putting in zips into all manner of garments, cushions, etc for more than 50 years and learned how to move into the 21st century from you! Ihad never thought about using an adhesive or to reinforce the seam. In facy I think that I will be placing an order with you soon.
Do you do mail order overseas?
Keep up the good work you’ll soon be onto your next class, looking forward to it already.
Mary - I’ve watched with great pleasure your class on the zippers and i have to say — well done. I’ve been putting in zips into all manner of garments, cushions, etc for more than 50 years and learned how to move into the 21st century from you! I had never thought about using an adhesive or to reinforce the seam. In fact I think that I will be placing an order with you soon.
Do you do mail order overseas?
Keep up the good work you’ll soon be onto your next class, looking forward to it already.
Emily - So excited! And gorgeous headshot.
Robin - congratulations Sunni! I saw that on Craftsy and so glad to see you teaching.
And you look gorgeous!
Judy - I just watched your Lesson 1 on Craftsy, had to say thanks-
learned about stablizing fab before sewing! After 50 years of sewing I learned NEW tips!!!
Lady Mellilah - Thanks for sharing this wonderful tutorial…so many people are thrown by installing a zipper and this really helps.
Rebecca - I can’t wait to watch this. Zippers are a really confusing area and this will be a great resource. I just started making teaching videos for oil painting techniques in my studio and I understand about the questioning your voice thing. Mine are self shot and I have a really quiet voice. The more you do, the more you get comfortable with it.
Denise - Thank you so much for the free zipper class. I am not keen on zippers and keep avoiding garments that have them because I am never satisfied with my insertion skills. My goal this spring and summer (thanks to you)is to master this skill. I will have your class up on my laptop guiding me each step of the way.
Thanks again!
Denise
Lholy-chan - Congratulations on the class! I got it, now I just have to find the time to watch it.
Lholy-chan recently posted..Wedding part 2: Save the Date
Nedra Obi - awesome! please count me in for those classes
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Pauline - I’ve just taken the class and even though I knew how to insert zippers, I’d never used the lapped zipper technic and I’ve never found a simple to follow tutorial. Yours is amazingly easy to understand and I am excited to apply it to my next dress for a vintage feel. Congratulation, you’ve done a great job (and you sound adorable and so nice)!
Love from Spain
Gail - Just picked up this course last night while on Craftsy.com. I’ll looking forward to improving my zipper skills.
Gail recently posted..Evolution blouse
Roxanne Ricchio - Thank you Sunni for the free Craftsy Zipper Techniques class. I just purchased an invisible zipper foot for my machine and I am going to attempt this. With your help I know I can do this. I am going to order the fusible knit stay tape from you too! Great blog!