A Fashionable Stitch

How to: Move a Dart

April 17, 2012 · 23 comments

This is an easy peasy trick and if you’ve ever dabbled in a little bit of pattern drafting, you’ve probably done this several times. Darts are basically excess fabric pick-ups that, when sewn together, create shape for your curves - you know, like for your bustline, waistline or hipline. They can also be a great way to incorporate design lines – think princess seams, the tutorial that’s coming up tomorrow – into a garment. I really wanted to be able to show you how to create armscye princess seams as I’m doing the same for my wrap dress, but first you need to know how to move a dart. Let’s get started!

I’m going to show you how to move a dart on a front bodice, but this technique can be used for other parts of a basic sloper/TNT (tried’n'true) pattern too – any where there is a dart, you can move it! Let your imagination run wild.

Step 1 ♥ Find your apex. What’s the apex? It’s going to be the middle/shifting point of the dart. For our front bodice, its right square in the middle of the breast. Many commercial patterns already have this marked for you, but if not, find your apex and mark the apex with a circle.

Step 2 ♥ Redraw the dart lines to the apex. Most, if not all darts, tend to end about 1 – 2 inches shy of the apex. To move the dart we need to extend the dart lines to the apex. To do that, you’ll simply take a ruler and shimmy it up to a dart leg end (the fat end of the dart) and along and up to the apex and pencil it in. Easy right?

Step 3 ♥ Pick a spot for the new dart. This is where it gets fun! From the apex, you can shift a dart to pretty much anywhere. I’m going to move the shoulder dart here to the armscye because I’m going to show you how to draft a princess seam from there, but you can put the new dart anywhere.

Step 4 ♥ Cut out the dart. Then cut the new dart line all the way to the apex.

Step 5 ♥ Shift the old dart closed and tape it up. And Voila! You’ve moved a dart! Fill in the new dart with some paper and tape. Shorten the dart back to where it was – opposite of Step 2, within 1 – 2 inches of the apex and then cut the dart from the paper after you’ve folded it into position. From here, true up the rest of your seam lines if needed. Not so bad, right?

Tomorrow I’ll continue this little creative exercise with how to draft a princess seam. Have you ever moved a dart? Ever wanted to dabble a bit in pattern drafting? I’ll admit, if you were to ask me about pattern drafting several years back, when I got back into sewing, I would have instantly said no. But over the years, I’ve developed a keen interest in it and have found that its more of a continuation into this wonderful enormous world of sewing. I find it rather fascinating and to be honest, extremely liberating. Being able to dissect that latest dress I spotted whilst window shopping is awfully fun.

Ciao friends!
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 4.13.2012

April 13, 2012 · 6 comments

Friday the 13! he he! In April, no less! It’s that time of the week again friends. Stitching Spotlights to your weekend rescue! Are you doing anything grand this weekend? Mr. S and I had a date planned for the a trip to our local zoo, but as there is a chance of rain and drear I think we might skip it this week. I’m going to be putting the finishing touches on my wrap dress draft and mocking up a muslin. I’m rather excited to cut into some fabric after so much work on inspiration and drafting. I’ll be the first to let you know how it goes.

I simply could not resist adding Casey’s gorgeous period inspired frock to the spotlighted creation this week. Isn’t it just lovely? Casey always creates such drool worthy sewn garments and this is simply no exception. She looks divine in it too! Gorgeous confection Casey!

I found Tasia’s post on frosting vs. cake so intriguing. I feel absolutely the same way about my wardrobe and my own sewn creations. I love frosting and rarely make cake. Judging from the cloth I buy for my stash, I feel this even more so. Yet, when I go to my closet to try to wear something with the creation I just finished, I find I have no “basic”/cake items to go with my frosting. A closet full of frosting and nothing to wear! Definitely jump over to read her thoughts and the thoughts of others in the comments!

Karen from Did You Make That? is hosting her first ever sewalong. She’s chosen to do a pyjama party! I think its a brilliant idea and plan to follow along and make myself a pair or two of lovely pj bottoms – possible even a silk set, what do you say to that? My pyjama/lounge wear is pathetic. Dare I say that even Mr. S turns up his nose quite frequently at the sad state of my wardrobe in this area and yet, what do I continue to make – DRESSES! Thank you Karen! This is just what I needed!

More inspiring goodness from my reader this week:
❤ A great tutorial for a better elastic waistband insertion – don’t miss this one!
❤ Hop on over to Amy’s blog and tell her which you like better – the nude or black colored slip for her stunner of a lace dress!
❤ Another wonderfully inspirational interview from Tilly!
❤ Sherry poses this very intriguing question and one that I consider a lot.
❤ Zoe and Tilly debut their creations for the Simplicity blog hop! Stellar frocks too!
❤ I loved Rachel’s recommendations for dressing guides.
❤ Isn’t Lauren’s fabric choice for this Cynthia Rowley frock delightful?
❤ I do think Debi’s suit is just amazing. Sigh…
❤ Suzannah posted a video on how to measure yourself – now that is very helpful. Dontcha think?
❤ Nan is so inspirational to me! I love her Jackie O suit, what about you?

Have a wonderful weekend friends!

xoxo,
Sunni

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Teacher’s Pet

April 12, 2012 · 14 comments

I have some official news which I’m rather excited to share today! I’ll be teaching at Sewing Summit 2012! I’m terribly excited about this. I think its pretty fabulous that a sewing event of any sort be held in Utah, let alone one that involves both garment sewing and quilting. Yay! We’ll be constructing a top and by the end of the session you should be able to take home your finished garment and wear it. It should be especially fun for those who are thinking about crossing over from quilting and want to try their hand at garment sewing and for those who are beginners who have a few garments under their belt. I’m also planning on putting together several tutorials from now until October for how to achieve several variations of the top. For those interested, I’ll be posting more on what top pattern and such in upcoming posts.

Are you attending Sewing Summit? Sarai and Mena will be there. And it would only be too fun to organize a meet-up for an evening. Are you in?

xoxo,
Sunni

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Inspired: the Wrap Dress

April 11, 2012 · 18 comments

I’m trying to do something of a SWAP (Sewing with a Plan) and a Spring Palette. More or less, I’m trying to keep my energies focused on one project at a time. This is hard for me. Once I get started on a project, I tend to start looking for another project before the project I’m working on has even finished. I told you yesterday that I’ve started drafting a wrap dress. It’s my first full draft and its been kind of hard to pinpoint exactly what I wanted to do, so I decided to compromise and sew 2 wrap dresses instead of just one. I’ve been wanting something of a Diane Von Furstenberg meets the wrap dresses from the 2005 version of Pride & Prejudice. A rather odd combo, I’ll admit, but lately that’s what I’ve been inspired by. I put together a few images of what I’m dreaming about so that possibly, you too, might be inspired! Yay! Click on each image for the original link.

I adore this dress. I especially love the flow and drape of the fabric, a silk I would guess. A completely perfect color too. Don’t you think?

Another silk beauty but with gorgeous pockets. Not a true wrap dress, but a faux wrap, nonetheless. I adore it! The color, the drape and beauty of the fabric and the sleeve particularly catch my eye.

A classic Diane Von Furstenberg. So simple. Classic lines and simple shapes. In none other than her classic silk jersey. Such luxury! I die!

These last two images are from the 2005 version of the Pride & Prejudice. Now, regardless of your feelings about the film (of which, I am told there are strong ones about it) I find the costumes positively lovely. There were a multitude of wrap like dresses like the pink one on the far right in the top photo and most had a back with similar design lines to the one in the bottom photo. I especially love the back. An armscye princess seam with a center back seam and a wrapped shoulder seam. I think its stunning, what do you say? Are you a wrap dress fiend too? Doesn’t everyone need one of these?

xoxo,
Sunni

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Colette Patterns Spring/Summer Lineup!

April 10, 2012 · 6 comments

Colette Patterns Spring/Summer patterns are now available – I die! Sarai asked me to give a mention when the patterns debuted – which I’m delighted to oblige as I’m also an avid pattern tester for Colette. Aren’t they just wonderful?

I had the pleasure of testing out Hazel. Believe me when I tell you that I’m surprised at how easy it is, yet how simply marvelous it looks. I’m especially keen on the striped version. Don’t you just love stripes? Plus there’s pockets and a summer dress just isn’t complete without pockets, I think.

The Iris shorts are so sweet and they look positively wonderful and easy to wear. And is that lining I see peeking out? I do so hope so. The perfect accompaniment for a bike ride through the park.

Last, but definitely not least – Lily! What a great frock for a date with the mister. And, oh me oh my, what is this I see? Why a vent! Now, I can definitely tell you, without any reservation, after revamping vent tutorials, I’m very happy to see this little number on this little dress. Yay! Another thing that makes me rather happy – both dresses, Lily and Hazel can be worn with a regular old bra. That’s big in my book. What about yours?

Friends, these patterns are available today through Colette and will be available soon through A Fashionable Stitch! Excitement abounds – bring on Spring & Summer! What’s your favorite?

xoxo,
Sunni

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Strawberry Banksia

April 10, 2012 · 15 comments

Somehow, I feel that my time has been in a bit of a whirlwind since January and I’ve not done things that I really should have. One is to tell you that I’ve now started to carry a few Megan Nielsen’s sewing patterns in the shop. These are rather sweet patterns and I’ve started to see several versions pop up all over the blogospheres and am now happy to report that I’ve made myself a Banksia blouse from one.

Let’s see, where to start. I’ve been working on a wrap dress (more on that later) that I’m drafting myself. It’s my first ever full draft of a dress and I’m actually rather impressed with myself, but its been a bit of a big job and I needed a distraction of sorts and found that this pattern only had 5 pattern pieces. I like it when you can make something from a small amount of pattern pieces. I whipped this number out in a day, which I found amazing because normally I tend to allow projects to sit for a day or two on things like hemming and the like (I hate hemming, because then it means the project is usually over).

I altered the pattern with my sloper (this is becoming a rather invaluable tool) and then proceeded to cut it out in this strawberry coloured linen which as you can only guess is from Yellow Bird Fabrics (have I mentioned that I really do love this store?). It stitched up really quickly! I was a little shaky when it came to the placket, but the directions were quite spot on and I found the insertion quite easy to do. The buttons were from the stash and if I do say so myself, their oversized size makes for a rather Anthropologie-esque feel. Kinda cute right?

I misjudged the length for this thing – something I’ve fixed for a future round, but I’m happy to report that adding a band of fabric to the bottom for increased length only means that I’m resourceful rather than dismayed that I didn’t get every single thing perfectly right. Right?

I’m pretty happy with the finished result – I think I’ll be more happy with a pair of black cotton sateen clovers to go with it. That’ll be the icing the on the cake I’m quite sure. Easy pattern=sweet blouse! And because I promised to give you a resource list, here you go:

Banksia Blouse pattern – similar fabric

I don’t know about you, but I’m aching for a strawberry smoothie just about now…

xoxo,
Sunni

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Refashioned Post Updates

April 9, 2012 · 4 comments

Hey friends! I spent a good deal of last week making little pencil skirts so that I could update my pencil skirt w/vent tutorials. When I say little, I mean I cut out the BurdaStyle Jenny skirt at 60% and proceeded to make up little skirts like I was making them for a doll or something. It was fun and sooooooooooooo much easier to photograph. I’ve revised a ton of stuff there including the wording and such and I’ve fully revamped the sewing section of the lining. If you’ve already tried your hand at these particular tutorials before, please have another look at them as a few of the instructions have changed a bit. You’ll find the links in the Sewing School, of course, but you can click on the thumbnails below and hop on over to each of the tutorials too. They are in order from left to right. Updated and freshened, hopefully you’ll find them useful, if not at this point in time, sometime in the future. You can pop me an email anytime if you’ve got questions and I’ll try to get them answered. Enjoy!

xoxo,
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 4.6.2012

April 6, 2012 · 19 comments

Hey guys, it was my birthday this week – Wednesday to be exact. It’s the big 30 this year and I was going to post something about it, but I didn’t. Instead I’ve been sewing and prepping ideas for future stuff and all round, its been one rather nice and easy week. I’m good with that. That’s a good birthday week I think. So Happy Birthday to me, right?

This week’s spotlighted creation goes to Lauriana from Petit Main Sauvage. Lauriana has a keen eye for design and she knocked off this Burberry look with extraordinary finesse. Isn’t it gorgeous. I love the silhouette, fabric color and its just the right length. The waist detail is rather stunning too. Amazing frock Lauriana!

These lace tutorials (here & here) from Lauren about inserting lace by machine is really amazing. Definitely do not miss it! I can see this working beautifully in the bodice of a dress or even just a billowy cotton voile blouse just in time for summer.

A very noteworthy post on matching up stripes! Tasia has the most clever ideas and techniques!

More inspiring musings throughout the interwebs:
Did you catch this article? I found it most interesting. Do you think there is a pretty penalty?
A most favorite outfit to cross my reader – I just love Spring, don’t you?
I adore this dress recently finished by Jessica. Makes me want a pina colada, right. now.
Don’t miss Duane’s undercollar inspiration. I’ve only seen this once before, but I thought it was nothing less than stellar!
I love Lauren’s shirtwaist. She’s a regular belle in it.
I really hope you caught Lavender’s 1913 dress – don’t miss the giveaway either!
Loved this post on tips for sewing with knits!

Happy Easter Weekending!

xoxo,
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 3.30.2012

March 30, 2012 · 18 comments

This has been a seriously amazing week of frocks ladies and gents! My reader was bombarded with several lovely creations, sewing tips and inspiration. I’ve been having a bit of trouble getting myself in gear to sew rather than watch TV shows via netflix and get crazy addicted to the drama created therein. I’m ashamed to say that I’ve yet to watch Downton Abbey – something I’m very much looking forward to, but just know I’ll be addicted and nothing else will be done. I’ve got to watch the 2nd season of Luther and I’m still on a Buffy kick. I also just bought the 2nd season of the Murdoch Mysteries. Can you say couch potato? The madness must end. Now.

This week’s spotlighted creation goes to Amy from Yellow Bird Fabrics (my favorite local fabric haunt). Amy’s the owner of Yellow Bird and she made not one, but two fabulous dresses. I must say that I believe the lace lovely is my favorite, but the floral dress is also so well executed and looks just glorious on her. What do you think? Amy, both are simply marvelous! Yay!

Isn’t this idea from Nette the most charming thing you have ever seen? I get googly eyed over things that are small and making little clothes for presents for friends is just over the top! Ha! I adore stuff like this. I would faint on the spot if I received this.

I’m terribly, terribly jealous that Liz has a sewing buddy. How can we be friends is she’s already got a sewing buddy? Do you have a sewing buddy? There’s a another lady that works at Yellow Bird (besides Amy) who sews with a friend on Tuesday nights, I believe. Now that’s a great idea, dontcha think?

Carolyn posted this really helpful advice for purchasing a sewing machine. I think its terribly awesome that she put aside her bias for Janomes and said to go and try out new machines at a sewing machine store. I admit that’s what I did when I bought my machine. I have a Bernina and I love it! But maybe a Bernina isn’t for you. So if you’re looking to buy a new sewing machine soon, definitely heed Carolyn’s advice!

More inspiring goodness from this week:
✂ Don’t miss Part 4 of Madalynne’s block draft!
✂ Sarai posted some great tips for photographing your sewn creations – I’m always up for new tips!
✂ Gertie re-posted her crinoline tutorial. Aren’t poofy skirts just the bee’s knees?
✂ Sherry’s dress is to. die. for! And definitely check out her tutorial for hemming an inverted pleat - she has the best tricks!
✂ Erika’s got a great giveaway for some tailoring supplies – definitely go enter.
✂ Sallieoh turned 27 in a dress that ‘s fit for a true queen!
✂ Jane’s take on Joan Holloway’s blue shirtdress is incredible!
✂ I really enjoyed Tasia’s discussion on time length for sewing projects. Do you think everything you sew should get progressively harder?
✂ Please tell me that you saw Elizabeth’s color blocked dress. She’s got a thing for linen and sheath dresses too. What class!

Have a positively wonderful weekend!

xoxo,
Sunni

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Simplicity Blog Hop!

March 29, 2012 · 46 comments

I was contacted a bit ago by Simplicity to participate in a blog hop along with several other bloggers! (Hey guys, please excuse my yesterday’s post which wasn’t supposed to go up until today but which I accidently hit publish for and didn’t realize it until it was too late! Oi!) I was overjoyed and was sent 3 patterns from which I was to choose one to mock up and feature here at A Fashionable Stitch. There’s something of a Vintage Inspired Look celebration going on over at Simplicity and you can jump on over to enter to win a pack of the same 3 patterns I received and then choose one, like me, and make your own. You should also sign up for Simplicity’s newsletter while you’re at it (and get 15% off so you can buy those new Cynthia Rowley dresses like I did)!

Here I sit, eating a mouthful of oreo cookies, drinking whole milk and listening to Carmina Burana. This has been one of those projects where somehow my sewing mojo was off but now that the photos have been taken, I gave myself leave to celebrate with some sugar and fat. Originally, I told Mr. S to pick the pattern for me and he actually picked Simplicity 2282. Then we went fabric shopping and found some rather fantastic marigold colored silk charmeuse at Yellow Bird and from there we went home. When I got home, I put the silk up to my face and couldn’t imagine a worse color for my complexion! So a whole dress in that color would have looked rather interesting, I’m sure. So, since I blew a chunk of change on silk, I opted to go shopping in my stash and found this rust colored linen that I’ve had for years and have been needing to use for something. I thought about doing Simplicity 2282, but then I thought – No! I want Simplicity 1913!

Long story short I tried many of the pattern options for this dress, but found that my final version here, was the best suited for my shape and fashion sensibilities. I really wanted the version that had the sleeves, the carriers and sash and the collar. I had stitched the sleeves in and the collar and felt rather….off. Just wasn’t doin it for me. So I scrapped the collar, then I decided to scrap the sleeves too because they weren’t helping things.

I really wanted to keep the cute little gathers at the hips. But friends, let’s get some things straight with this here old Sunni Standing. I can’t do gathers at my waist. No seriously. I can’t. And what’s way weird is that I keep trying. And trying. And trying. So it’s now official – there will be no more trying to do gathers at my waist. No more! I love gathers at the waist too – especially when I see them all cute and darling on everyone else. But I can’t pull them off. I don’t even know why either. But I can’t. So to avert the gathers at Sunni’s waist (I did try them too – clearly my seam ripper and I are real tight now, real tight) I seam ripped and put in tucks. Even weirder, I can do tucks but not gathers. Totally don’t get it.

Let’s move onto some good stuff, OK? I now have a rather stylish and chic sheath dress, in a color that screams ME. Plus its linen and I LOOOOOVE linen. Yeah, I’m a fan of the wrinkle. Totally love that. So anyway, I’ve got this dress now and its fully lined! This was no easy feat, I tell you. The skirt section has a back vent and so I did my whole back vent thing (which I promise to show you soon). Let’s talk about comfort factor too. Real comfortable. I decided not to make this dress so fitted, but rather semi-fitted. Feels like pjs. Plus throw on a cardigan and a pair of flats and I’ve just turned this glamorous look into something that I can wear around crazy 14 year olds!

I used a trick from Gertie for the skirt section and tapered it in by 1 inch (4 inches total) at the hem (btw, I believe she usually does 2 inches – 8 inches total, but I wasn’t quite that brave). The result is more flattering I think, giving the illusion that my hips beautifully round down into my knees. Clever, clever! I adore the princess seams, which is not something I tend to gravitate to so I’m glad to be forced out of my comfort zone a little. My invisible zipper application was perfect and all of my seams align rather perfectly too. I was going to do the carriers and sash, but since the dress is semi fitted, putting a belt around my waist just kind of cinched the fabric all up weird. So I went for that tab with the buttons. I feel pretty mod in an updated 60′s sort of way. Simplicity 1913 – conquered!

Friends – don’t miss out on the giveaway! And don’t miss Susannah’s version of Simplicity 1913 which aired yesterday. And guess who’s coming up? Why Lavender’s got somethin somethin up her sleeve, Zoe’s going to turn heads and Tilly’s got some sweet stitchin coming your way too. Enjoy!