Anyway, I’m here to just fill you in on a little something. There’s going to be a birthday sale over at the shop. Want in on the sale – sign up for the newsletter.  Just in case you were worried about the newsletter thing, don’t be. I don’t send out that many newsletters and when I do, I just try to fill y’all in on stuff in the shop. Like this sale, because A Fashionable Stitch officially turns 2 tomorrow! Just sayin, don’t miss out if you don’t want to! Yay!

I distinctly recall my first purchase of a Burda World of Fashion magazine (which by the way, is now BurdaStyle magazine). I remember falling absolutely, insanely in love with a dress (that I have yet to make) on the front cover of the magazine and purchasing it up real quick like. I got the magazine home and started flipping through the endless pages of photos of all the patterns in the mag and thinking, “Gosh, this is amazing! All these patterns in one magazine.” I remember when I found this really big sheet of paper at the end of the magazine that had lots and lots of lines all over it and then it hit me like an anvil that those were the actual pattern pieces. There they were all nested like a hot mess on top of each other, and there I was completely horrified at the thought of having to trace one off. This before I even knew that they didn’t have seam allowances to boot. This is not to say that I don’t actually appreciate these types of patterns, I do – especially as they have become more popular in sewing books that come with patterns – its just that I wasn’t educated on how to properly trace a pattern. I had never traced off a pattern before and the idea really perplexed me. For starters, where in the world would I find paper that was big enough? And what would I do then? Just take a pencil and start outlining my size? And what if there were something like 12 – 15 pattern pieces? And then I have to add a seam allowance too? It felt really overwhelming and I think, to someone who has only ever worked with Big 4 patterns (Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick & Vogue) and just cut your size from the tissue, you might think the same thing.

Today I wanted to show you two ways to trace off a sewing pattern. Both methods work for tracing off patterns that come nested on one big sheet of paper and those that come in an envelope too. If you are asking why you would want to trace off an envelope pattern, rather than just cutting out your size, I would say that choice is up to you.  If you feel that its a pattern you’ll keep in your stash forever and want to wear again when you’re 40 but at the moment, you’re 25, trace it because its almost guaranteed that you’re body will change as you age putting you in a different size bracket. If not, don’t trace it and just cut your pattern size from the tissue. Ok? Ok.

Method #1
I’ve tried many methods for tracing off a pattern, so as one who is always looking for the latest and greatest in pattern tracing technology (ha ha!) I’ll show you my two favorites. First, let’s start with the less expensive. To trace in this manner you’ll need three elements:

• Paper – I prefer medical exam paper! Very Very easy to see through, write on and tape up
• Pencil
• Ruler – those 2″ x 18″ gridded rulers are the bomb!

Layout your pattern with the piece you want to trace facing up. Lay the medical exam paper or paper of your choice on top of the pattern and then lay down a few heavy objects (like cans of food or pattern weights) or pin the trace off paper to the pattern so the papers don’t slip and slide around. From there, start the tracing game. Trace off your size, with the aid of the ruler (seriously, this is a TON easier with a ruler), label your pattern piece and if needed, add the seam allowance. Adding that seam allowance is made only about 1000 times easier with one of those 2″ x 18″ gridded rulers. In addition, you’ll use that sucker for so many other things, its not even funny. Get one. You know you need it. By the way, I have 3 because I loose these puppies all the time and having more than one makes it a bunch easier to find at least one….

Method #2 – Sunni’s favorite method of all time!
This is the best, easiest, coolest method on the face of the planet, for tracing off a pattern! If you’re in it to win it, and save yourself a butt-load of precious time (because who has that in abundance these days), you need the following:

• Paper – again, my favorite is medical exam paper, but for this method any paper will really do ya.
• Waxed Tracing Paper – this stuff is fabulous, amazing, the best thing since sliced bread and anything else you can possibly imagine.
• Double Tracing Wheel – this is a FREAKING GODSEND when it comes to those Burda magazine patterns that need a seam allowance because this little doodad will trace off and add the seam allowance in one. fell. swoop. You can also use a regular old tracing wheel too, so no pressure or anything.

You’re going to make a little trace off sandwich here. First, lay out the tracing paper with the waxy side up – by the way, the blue and red are the best for this sort of thing. Then lay your paper of choice on top of that. Add your pattern on top of that and slap down a few pattern weights and you’re good to trace. Take your tracing wheel and start a tracing yo. That’s right, I said, YO! No pain. Less time consuming and well, less mental and emotional trauma. In addition, of you don’t have concerns about the fit, you can actually use this method directly on the final fabric. Or you can use this method directly on muslin too. Whatevs. To make the sandwich with fabric, I lay down the fabric first with the wrong sides out, then the tracing paper face down on the fabric, then the pattern.

A word about tools for this method. I sell all the tools here for doing both methods in my shop. You can find that stuff here. The wax tracing paper is huge and will last a long time – like years. The medical exam paper will last quite a long time too it being 75 yards and all. The double tracing wheel is so cool! Here’s some up close shots, just in case you were curious as to how this works. It works by repositioning the pegs that have the actual wheel on them. You can reposition them to any width from 1/4″ to 1 1/4″.  Or you can just use one peg and ditch the other one if your pattern has seam allowances already. Whatever.

If you’re newer to tracing off sewing patterns, I truly hope this little tutorial has helped give you a few options to think about. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat, and knowing that is half the battle. So there you go. My two favorite ways to skin a cat, I mean trace off a sewing pattern. In addition, because I feel SOOOOOOO passionately about this subject, I made my first ever video. I hope you like it. It will give you a quick and dirty action packed run down of what I’m talking about here.

Don’t use either of the methods above? How do you trace off a pattern?

Rayon seam binding has been in the shop for a little while now (and I just updated some new colors too!) and since I’ve had several questions about what it is exactly and what it can do I thought I would show you my favorite use for it and link to some other uses for it too. It can be a fairly versatile notion and one that you’ll find really handy for adding finishing touches to garments. You can usually find seam binding at your local fabric store, but I will say, it’s sadly one of those items that has now been taken over by the polyester revolution. The polyester stuff is pretty crummy – really really stiff and a little too thick. The rayon type that I sell in the shop is really quite nice. Its nice and thin but has quite a bit of strength and it’s got body too. Plus it comes in some really lovely colors – I’m planning to add even more colors soon enough.

OK, so what is rayon seam binding? It’s a densely woven, lightweight, thin ribbon. You can bind seams with it, use it as a hem tape, as an embellishment and I’ve even used it as a light version for a waistline stay – in this dress actually.

I use it mostly to hem garments. I love it as a hem tape! It’s so nice and lightweight and doesn’t leave any unsightly bulkiness. Here’s how I apply it.

Stitch the seam binding to the edge of your hemline. I usually line up the garment’s hemline in the middle of the seam binding and stitch close along one edge of the seam binding.

Press the freshly stitched seam binding flat and then press your hem into place. Here I used a really small hem allowance as I’m working with a half circle skirt, but you can always use a larger hem allowance depending on your preference.

Handstitch or topstitch your hem in place along the unstitched edge of the seam binding. Give your hem a good press when your finished and Voila! You’re done! Easy peasy.

I applied it to both of my recent pencil skirt makes – here’s my little plaid number. See? It provides such a nice finished touch. It’s fun to use contrasting colors too! Go a little crazy! I think it makes the inside of the garment just as pretty as the outside and for me, that says a lot.

Here’s a couple links to some other great tutorials on how to use seam binding:
Lauren shows a quick Bound Seams tutorial.
Laura Mae has several little renditions of this too. Check it out!

What do you use seam binding for?

xoxo,
Sunni

In addition to having a great time teaching and meeting insanely amazing women + huge GIANTS in the sewing world (I shook hands with Judy Neukam, Threads Editor, and Susan Khalje AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!) I was rooming with Gertie! We shared a room last year in Florida and it was soooooo much fun to be roomies with her once again. I bought her book at the expo and she signed it for me and as I was reading through it and flipping through the fabulous pattern photos at the back, I found a little something on her resource page! She included A Fashionable Stitch shop in the resources section and on page 148! Thank you Gretchen – I’m thoroughly honored (blush, blush)! From what I’ve read of the book so far, I’m truly inspired! I’m loving all of the blouse patterns (total thinking Everyday Wardrobe gone vintage and a little upscale) and I might just have to break down and make the bomshell wiggle dress!

It goes without saying that I also spent wayyyyyyy too much money there. But truly, friends and cohorts in sewing crime, if you knew what I found, you could hardly blame me. I have to make you just a little bit green with envy, so here goes. I bought some really beautiful wools from Wool House which is a company based out of Toronto, Canada. I loved the selection and I couldn’t help but flash winning smiles at Bob Moosa, the charmer who was working the booth. What makes fabric shopping more fun than just the fabric? It’s the people selling you the fabric, folks. If sales people aren’t supposed to be charming, who is? Bob is all about the charm. He knows his wools and his selection is really vast. You simply must call and get swatches – if only to talk to him! He’ll make you feel like a million and you’ll get some wonderful fabrics too!

The Material Girls had this really cute dobby-like cotton that I simply could not resist. A japanese print, it’s just the ticket with these snaps I purchased from the Snap Source people. You guys every heard of the Snap Setter? I had heard about it before and was very interested in seeing a demonstration for it in person. For me, it did not disappoint. If you’ve ever tried to apply a snap to a blouse before – and I have – using the crummy Dritz plier tool is for the birds. Love snaps? Get this tool! So easy to use, so genius and they make every color and type of snap you could ever want plus they have varying sizes of snaps – a real bonus, in my opinion. Who doesn’t want to make a button up shirt with snaps? This is totally Everyday Wardrobe approved! I’m planning to possibly carry this tool with selection of snaps in the future in the shop, so look for those in the nearish future.

Last stop, Mendel Goldberg Fabrics, based out of New York. If you only knew how long I’ve been looking for a Chanel style boucle, you would have stopped dead in your tracks, like I did, when I saw what this booth had to offer. You guys, this IS Chanel boucle, not just Chanel style. Yeah. I’ve wanted one of those Chanel jackets for forevah! I’m not going to lie and say this wasn’t expensive, because it was, but I’m sooooooo in love with this fabric. As if it wasn’t enough that I actually found my long lost boucle soul mate, Gertie and I went halvsies on this silk and cotton brocade. Sooooooo amazingly gorgeous! Mendel Goldberg also has a swatch service and because these types of fabrics are truly kind of a rare find, if you too, have had visions of a Chanel jacket lined in quilted silk charmeuse with a chain weighted hem whilst sleeping, you absolutely must call and get some swatches. The ladies running the booth were fabulous!

Shop Alert!
And because I didn’t want to write an extra post about this, I thought I would just tack it onto the end of this one. Just soos ya know, I’ve just barely finished photographing and adding……………..LAMBSWOOL to the shop! For those of you doing Gertie’s Coat Sewalong or the Anise Sewalong, you might be interested in picking up some of this for added warmth. When this stuff finally came, I almost pinched myself because I couldn’t actually believe that I was able to source it. I’m selling it in cream for now and I’ll be getting it in black very soon too.

Eat your eyes out,
Sunni

Well, friends, its time to have a chat about the shop and where its headed. This is not a post about closing – so don’t think that! I’ve decided to head in a little bit different of a direction though, for the present, to see where it takes me. I will continue to bring you hard to find, fine notions and supplies, but I have decided to stop carrying sewing patterns for the present. It’s possible that I will bring them back in the future, but for now (after a whole bunch of agonizing thought over the course of several months) I’ve decided to stop carrying them. This is good news for you because now those that are left are on sale and they will remain on sale until they are gone. I thought I would let you all know – since I have such a small shop, and at present, this feels like a big decision. But its one that I’m content to make for now.

Whewwwww……now that that is off my chest, let’s have a little talk about what’s come! A few new things have hit the shop since last I updated here with you! First, these magnetic pincushions! I have to admit that I’ve never been really into magnetic pincushions, but I’ve finally been converted. After purchasing one and using it for several months now, I don’t think I could ever go back. The ease with which I can just throw a pin at the pincushion as I’m plowing through a seam is incredible and I love it! And now you can get the same one I love (fabulous powerful magnet and groove for easy pick up) in green or pink. Don’t forget to pick up my favorite pins too!

Simflexes are now in stock. Oh yes. The coolest gadget since sliced bread and now in stock for the having.

Two new sizes of belt buckles. The elusive 1/2″-cher in the Bernadette style. I’m particularly excited about this size as I’ve been keen to make a skinny belt for awhile. Also in stock is the new Sherry (named after my late grandma, mind you) and she’s a 3/4″-cher. Both are way stylish and cute, so don’t miss. Be aware that 3/4″ and 1/2″ belt backing are no longer manufactured. What to do you might ask? Well, any width of belt backing can be cut down to size and it doesn’t make one iota of difference in the finished belt either. Works especially well if you’ve got a rotary cutter and mat, but still works if you’ve just got plain old scissors too.

A few new exciting additions to the patternmaking end of things too. Oh goodness! I’m terribly excited to be bringing you the Clover Double Tracing Wheel (HURRAHHHH!). Have no fear of those Burda patterns any longer! There’s also sheets of wax tracing paper now too – that’s right I said sheets. These puppies are 26″ x 39″ – BIG!  Also just in are rolls of medical exam paper – I use this stuff like its going out of style! Great for a lifetime of slashing and spreading. And I’m now carrying Dotted Pattern Paper! Hold the phone! Yes!

If all of this weren’t enough, I just received a shipment of rayon seam binding! Yes! Hip! Hip! Hooray! Tired of that crummy polyester/papery seam binding? Me too! So I thought it was high time I got some of the good old rayon stuff into the shop. This stuff is premium quality and I’ve stocked it in 4 basic colors for right now – I’ll be adding more and more colors too.

So, dear sewing partners in crime, do the bunny hop and hop on over to the shop! I do so hope you enjoy some of the new offerings – there’s even more on their way. I know! It’s crazy! Enjoy!

Katie said, “I really want to make a Simplicity 2444 short sleeved dress. I’m fairly new to sewing so this will be a challenge for me.” I’m sure you’ll do just great! Enjoy your prize Katie!

Also, today is the last day of the shop sale! Pop on over and grab up some more goodies while they last! Sale ends tonight at midnight (mst).

Have a wonderful day!

xoxo,
Sunni

It’s been like, FOREVER since I had a shop sale! You might even ask what I’ve been up to and why I haven’t been keeping better tabs on the shop and all I can really say is, my life feels like its been a roller coaster ride since the very beginning of this year! Doesn’t seem to be wanting to slow down much either. Still that doesn’t make me want to stop my little shop. On the contrary! I love finding sewing goodies for ya all! Anyway, its time for a sale! From this very moment, until Wednesay, September 12 at midnight (MST), get 20% off your total purchase when you enter AUTUMNFEVER (all caps please) in the discount code section at checkout. Please note the offer is only good while supplies last, so get in and get the goodies while they’re available! Hop on over and shop!

Enjoy friends! I’ll be back later this week with last week’s giveaway winner!

xoxo,
Sunni

You know, I never used to believe in stay tape. I thought it was a bunch of malarkey. I was really into only doing stay stitching for awhile, but I’ve come around friends. Stay tape is miraculous. Well, it can be anyway. I think the biggest problem before was that I wasn’t using fusible stay tape. That makes a big difference – seriously. I’m especially fond of this kind I’ve got in the shop. I use both types regularly. There’s the straight stay tape – great for use on wovens in straight-ish seams that need a little extra pick me up – and there’s also this knit stay tape – great for use in knits, but I LOVE LOVE LOVE it for curvy seam lines.

For my silk crepe wrap version of Simplicity 1880, I used the knit stay tape along the wrap front. Before I put this stuff down, my bodice front was stretching out like mad. After I put this stuff down, the front bodice doesn’t stretch out along the seamline. Pretty nifty eh? I also used it in the sleeve hem too. Works like magic. In fact I’m pretty sure that there’s magic in this stuff. Anyway, here’s a short tute on how I use it.

Step 1 ~ Take your pattern and either measure the section you want stay-taped or line your stay tape up along it and cut out a piece.

Step 2 ~ Adhere the stay tape to the wrong side of the pattern piece that’s been cut from the fabric. Give it a good spritz and use a press cloth and then press with your iron giving the section a good amount of steam. Make sure you’ve got the fusible side down on the fabric’s wrong side. I totally know I’m not using a press cloth above, but that’s cuz I like to give it a once more over after the press cloth adhering. Also, you can baste the stay tape down before pressing it into place, just so you know. That would give you double security of both a stay stitching line and stay tape!

Then you’re done. Yup. And you don’t have a bunch of stretched out seams all over the place. That’s the best part of all. Done in no time flat.

xoxo,
Sunni

A few more acquisitions made it into the shop this week! First off, there’s a couple of new petersham ribbon colors and sizes.  I just added Dreamscicle and Rasberry hued ribbons in 1 inch widths, plus in a few of the other colors there’s a few more sizes. Definitely check them out!

Also new – Glass Head Silk Pins! These are seriously the cat’s meow! I purchased a set awhile back and have been using them for sometime now and I could not be happier with them. They work wonderfully for silk, and for all other light to medium weight fabrics too – I’ve also used them for heavy weight fabrics with much success as well. These are definitely a dynamite pin to have! Plus those glass heads make them way easy to find in carpet – it only goes without saying that I drop my share of pins from time to time.

I’ve also become unbelievably fond of this particular brand of stay tape and so I just had to add it to the shop! This is Sewkeys E Extremely Fine Fusible Stay Tape. My especial favorite use for this stay tape – in the shoulders of knits. It totally beats adding twill tape after you’ve sewn a seam, something I always seem to have trouble applying. With this magical notion, you simply fuse the tape to the shoulder’s seamline, stitch it up and Voila! you’re done! It’s so easy and so much simpler. Not to mention, this stuff has a myriad of other uses too. Do give it a try! You’ll love it!

I also wanted to say an especial Thank You to you guys for making me feel like a million yesterday. I’ve read each and every one of your comments and each made me smile and remember what’s really important. Thanks so much for your encouragement! It means the world to me!

xoxo,
Sunni

Hey friends, its been awhile since I’ve done a proper shop update here and there are just a few new things I’ve added. I decided to start carrying those infamous Clover Chalk Pens. Yay! These things are lovely to use and so much easier than fiddling with chalk that breaks up in your hand or trying to sharpen one of those chalk pencils which always seem to break off in the sharpener (at least mine ALWAYS do). I’ve started carrying the blue and white, which are in the shop right now, and the pink and refills for these three colors should be coming soon.

Also, Collins’ Quilt and Sew Ruler is in the shop. A somewhat odd item for a shop that’s mostly into dressmaking tools, you might say? Don’t let the name fool you here! This ruler is THE ruler. It’s got a 1/8″ grid and to boot 1/16″ markings around the outer edges. I use mine all the time when I’m doing a little pattern drafting here and there. They come in terribly handy for adding on seam allowances and putting in grainlines. There’s some stellar instructions on the back of the packaging, to give you great ideas for other fabulous uses for this ruler too.

Just a couple new items to dream about. Yay!

Enjoy!
Sunni