As I said yesterday, I did waistline stays for each of the dresses because of the heaviness of the skirt. This really helped a bunch, and if you too are in need of a waistline stay, Tasia has a great tutorial here. This dress was not lined in any way because really, this fabric is thick and opaque enough that it wasn’t necessary.

I made the belt here and also made belt loops from serged thread (and when I say serged thread, I mean I just serged off a thread chain from my serger and treated it like regular thread) because the belt kept slipping all over the place and these babies keep that belt in place. I also tacked the wrap front in place. I really didn’t want to have to do this, but I had no intention of 1) letting everyone see the goods (not that there’s much to see anyway), 2) always having to worry about it and pull on it and blah blah blah, you know that code I’m sure and 3) I was not going to wear anything but a bra and underwear underneath. It’s way too hot for more than one layer!

I used the cap sleeve for both versions of this dress – what can I say? It’s sweltering hot here in Utah and that’s all I could think about as I was doing these dresses. But I did a little something different for this dress and put the sleeve on the bias. It’s a tip that Amber from Yellow Bird Fabrics gave me and it was very interesting! I love the way it gives a little more stretch to the sleeve (especially good for my broad upper back) but also keeps it a little tucked in around the arm at the hem area. You have to try this because it’s kind of a neat trick!

There’s one thing I don’t like on both dresses here and that’s how the skirt is folding on my body. I’m especially noticing it in these photos and I think the added weight of having a seam at the center front of the skirt, makes the skirt section fall a little strange. It’s not that I care that there’s a center front seam in the skirt, but I do feel that for this pattern for me (I’m not seeing this on everyone else’s version) I need to get rid of the center front seam and cut the skirt on the fold of the fabric. In this way the skirt center front would not be hanging and dragging on a bias cut piece of cloth and causing the folds to pool to my middle. Just a thought.

This is a great dress for getting a little dressier for a date or other some such hot summer fun. I’m really loving the wrap version and seriously considering another dress from this pattern. For those of you who are interested in re-creating a similar look, here’s a few links and info for you:

3-ply silk crepe fabric
Buckle Kit, Belting and Snaps
Jewelry – Kohl’s
Shoes – Cole Haan

Who did the wrap dress? Leave links to your dresses in the comments and please don’t forget to add your photos to the flickr pool if you like! Thanks again to all of you who participated in this sewalong! Really, I’m so happy with the really great feedback I’ve been receiving from you! You’ve all been absolutely FANTASTIC sports and have been so easy to sewalong with! I’m such a lucky girl! I can’t wait to see your version of this dress hit the webospere!

Alright Friends! I’ll be taking a short blog break next week. I’m woefully behind on various other projects, very tired and nervous about some upcoming events. And when I get kind of nervous, I don’t sleep real great so I’m 0 for 2! Awwww well! I’ll come back refreshed and ready to share more sewing adventures with you! Happy Summer Vacationing!

xoxo,
Sunni

OK, OK. I did opt for white linen and I got the fabric for it from Joann – its one of the few things I will buy there as I think the quality of the linen at Joann is pretty decent. Since I did it in white, and white can be seriously see-through, I opted to line the skirt section in a bemberg rayon lining. Also, for both dresses, shirt and wrap, I found that I really needed a waistline stay as both dresses had pretty heavy skirts and the waistline was drooping in certain sections because of it. For this dress, I applied the waistline stay by hand and am pretty happy with the result. It definitely does its job!

I used really simple and really cheap black buttons – those Slimline ones that cost $1, to be exact. Is it just me, or has the selection of stylish buttons just gone out the window in the last few years? Every time I go to the store to look at buttons, I come away feeling like they never have the ones I want. It’s rather dissatisfying to say the least. Also, you’ll note that my buttonholes were done in a contrasting color of thread to that of my dress. Oh my – FAUX PAUX! Ha ha ha! Actually, this is becoming one of those signature things that I do. Don’t know why, but I personally really like it.

I did a baby hem. I’m not entirely happy with the hem on this dress as I think it might not be even, but I’ll be damned if I’m doing it again (and yes, I did just swear!). I connected the skirt to the lining with serged french tacks – something I always forget to do, but am so happy that I remembered this time. Overall, I’m rather tickled with how lovely the dress turned out. It’s white and linen and that does really great things for the serious heat wave we’ve been having here in Utah. Plus I can pair it with several different colors of belts and accessories and wear flat sandals and still look put together.

For those of you who want to try and recreate a similar look on your own, here’s a few links to help you:

White Linen Fabric
Lining Fabric
Buttons
Belt – Target
Necklace – Target
Shoes – Aldo

Now, its your turn to share your shirt dresses! Please leave a comment here and tell us where to find your version of Simplicity 1880′s Shirt Dress! Thanks to everyone who participated in the Shirt Dress section of this sewalong! I really hope you all learned something new and had fun making this pattern your own! I know I did.

xoxo,
Sunni

This will be a virtual party. I do wish this could be a real party where we all met up together in real life wearing our dresses and had cocktails and fun, but unfortunately that’s not possible. To do this, we’ll be meeting back here on Thursday (July 19) for the Shirt Dressers and Friday (July 20) for the Wrap Dressers. I’ll be posting about my finished creations and then you guys can add comments and links in your comments about where your dress is located on the web, ie blog post, flickr photo, burda style account, pattern review account, etc. Make sense?

Don’t have your dress quite finished? No biggie! You can add a comment link later on down the road and there’s always the flickr group to add to as well.

Are you guys ready to party? Yay! I’m getting a little antsy to show you my dresses, that’s for sure! I’m pretty tickled with both of them! Here’s a little sneak peek at my shirt dress:

All finished! Yay! OK, ladies! Meet me back here on Thursday and Friday for some 2-in-1 sewalong fun!

xoxo,
Sunni

Inserting the Zipper
Let’s start with the zipper insertion. I did an invisible zip on both dresses. At one point or another I was not terribly fond of invisible zippers, but I’ve come around. In fact, I do love a good invisible zipper and these days they are easier for me to insert than a traditional zipper. I’ve got a tutorial here and my one emphasis on invisible zippers is that you should stabilize the zipper opening before insertion. Those zippers are such flimsy little things and really silk organza or fusible tricot (my favorite, btw) work really great to give these zippers a little oomph and strength. For added fun, here’s a few more of my favorite invisible zipper tutorials:
Tricks of the Trade: Inserting an Invisible Zip
Tutorial: Installing an Invisible Zip

Now don’t fret if you don’t want to use an invisible zipper. There’s some great tutorials for lapped and centered zipper applications that work wonders! I have one here and there’s also one by Gertie and one from Tasia, the Sewaholic too.

Hemming
For the skirt on Simplicity 1880, you will most likely need to trim it so that the sections that have stretched aren’t all wonky on the bottom of your skirt. If you have one of these contraptions, they are really fun to use. I LOVE my pin skirt marker! If not, I’ve also given directions for how to do this with a yardstick mounted to your wall here.

To hem your skirt, I don’t think I could say it any better than Casey! Her directions from her circle skirt sewalong are fabulous and she gives a few ways of producing a great hem.

Buttons & Buttonholes
For you Shirt Dressers, you’ll need to mark out your buttonholes and then stitch them and add your buttons. Here’s a tutorial from Tasia for how to mark your buttonholes. She’s also got a clever tutorial for how to attach your buttons too.

To stitch your buttonholes, there’s a great tutorial here. I’ve also got a tutorial for how to hand work a buttonhole on the off chance your machine doesn’t produce a good one.

Best of luck with putting the finishing touches on your dress! I’ll be back with more info on the sewalong party soon where we’ll show off our creations with pizazz and finesse!

xoxo,
Sunni

Before we just jump into sewing this thing, let’s go over the anatomy of a notched collar. This helps me visualize what pieces go together and how they work with each other to achieve a beautifully stitched collar. First of all there’s the notch. What exactly is the notch? This is something I never really knew until a few years ago. The notch is that V shape that looks like its been cut out of the collar and the dress bodice. It’s also the hardest part to stitch when using pattern directions and the method I’m going to show you makes it so easy! Yay! Next let’s have a look at the collar. The collar has an under collar and an upper collar. The under collar is the section of the collar that lays against the garment and the upper collar is the part you actually see because it’s facing upward. Within the collar there’s built in shaping that happens as you attach the collar to the garment. There’s the stand – this is the part that actually stands up and is against the neckline. Then there’s the fall and this is the part of the collar that falls away from the stand and the neckline. Make sense? The stand and the fall are not separate pattern pieces, they are merely the shaping elements within the collar. The under collar is attached directly to the garment’s neckline. The upper collar is applied to the back facing and the front facing (which is already attached to the front bodice).

Let’s go over what pieces are involved in attaching the collar here first. There’s the bodice front (piece #1, cut 2 of fabric), the back facing (#11, cut 1 of fabric, cut 1 of interfacing), the upper collar (#4, cut 1 of fabric) and the under collar (cut 1 of fabric, cut 1 of interfacing), which is a piece we added from this post here.

Be sure to mark the circle on the bodice front and clip the notches on all pattern pieces. Now let’s sew them up!

Step 1 ~ If you haven’t already, you need to apply your interfacing. Please note that for the bodice front piece there is a separate interfacing piece (#3). Now let’s stitch the collar first. With your interfaced under collar and your un-interfaced upper collar, you’ll stitch the collar around the longest edge and down the sides, leaving the notched edge free.

Step 2 ~ Grade the collar. To grade the collar, trim the undercollar down to 1/4″ and the upper collar down to 1/2″.

If you decided to do a rounded collar edge like I did, you’ll need to notch around the curved edge, if not, you’ll need to clip off the points of the pointed collar instead. Now, press.

I thought I would show you the benefits of having a point presser here because they making pressing and turning a collar a cinch.

With the collar placed on top of the point turner, press open the seam allowances of the collar.

Pressing the seam allowances open on the collar first, really makes a big difference when you turn it right side out and press it flat – something you’ll know if you’ve done it without a point presser. If you don’t have a point presser, you can also use a seam roll. Now turn the collar right side out and press flat.

As you press the collar flat, you might notice that the under collar (if you did indeed actually follow my tutorial) is helping the seamline of the collar roll to the under collar’s side – this is called favoring, by the way – and that’s a good thing. It makes the collar look even that much more professional. It’s also something that can be aided with understitching too. OK, let’s move on. The collar is now ready to be applied to the garment, so let’s prep the garment next.

Step 3 ~ Alright, now we’re going to apply the back facing to the front facings. With right sides together, stitch the front facings to the back facing with the notches of the back facing, facing upwards. Press seams open.

Step 4 ~ Now we can apply the collar. First we’re going to attach the under collar to the back bodice. With right sides together, pin the under collar to the back bodice, wrapping it around to the front bodice. Match the notches at the back and match the circle on the front bodice with the end of the collar. Stitch in place and end the stitching line about 1/4″ – 1/2″ from the ends of the collar.

Now, note that we’re only stitching the under collar to the bodice and not the collar as a whole. Make sense? So you’re actually stitching inside the collar.

Step 5 ~ Attach the upper collar to the back and front facing unit. With right sides together, pin the upper collar to the back/front facing unit, matching the notches at the back facing making sure that the upper collar ends right where the under collar ends at the circles (there are no circles on the facing unit in the front, but just fold that piece over from the pattern and mark where the circle would hit on the front facing). Stitch in place and end the stitching line about 1/4″ – 1/2″ from the ends of the collar.

Again, note that we’re only stitching the upper collar here, so you are still stitching inside the collar.

Step 6 ~ Now we’re going to sandwich all those layers together and stitch them all together through all layers (I know this sentence has all sorts of wrong stuff in it). Pin the attached collars wrong sides together and all the way around to the end of the bodice. Stitch in place. Grade the seam allowances. Clip the curves. Turn everything to the right side and press. Then finish the facings – a nice contrasting bias binding might look pretty nice!

Now that wasn’t so hard was it? I love this way of attaching a notched collar and find the result to be absolutely lovely – mine turns out every time! Let me know if you have problems, but hopefully this post has clarified and taken the mystery out of a notched collar application. Enjoy!

xoxo,
Sunni

OK you guys, I decided to go out on a limb and try something new here. I was going to show you how to put elastic in the neckline area of the wrap dress version of Simplicity 1880 to keep it from gaping, but in all actuality I started working on it and it just never quite meshed. So that’s a technique that I need to work on a little more – hey I never said I was perfect. Right….? Anyway, then I started rethinking the neckline and decided on a bias binding technique that I had yet to try. I decided to give it a whirl on my wrap dress. End result? Ummmm GORGEOUS! I don’t know about you, but I have such a problem with bias binding. It always ends up looking like garbage. Seriously. The thing with bias binding on drapey fabric is that it gets all warped and starts looking thin in one area and fat in another. It’s the nature of the beast. So we’re going to work on counteracting that today. Let’s get started.

Step 1 ~ First you need to trim the seam allowance off of the neckline for the wrap dress. By the way, it’s only 3/8″.

Step 2 ~ Now you need to figure out how wide you want your bias binding to be. I picked 3/8″, which is .375 in decimals. Take that number and times it by 8 and you have the width of the bias strips you need to cut. My bias strips are 3″. Cut 3 of those.

Step 3 ~ Measure the back section of the neckline, from shoulder seamline to shoulder seamline. Mine measured 6 1/2″. From there take 1″ away from that, which would leave me with 5 1/2″. I know we’re doing a bit of math here, but really it all has a purpose. Promise.

This 5 1/2 inches I’m left with is what I’m going to cut one of the strips of bias to be – meaning that it would then be 3″ wide by 5 1/2 long. Now you should have 3 bias strips – one that is short and two that are long and at least as long as the front neckline, so its good to measure that section too. Alright?

Step 4 ~ Now it’s time to sew the bias strips together. With right sides together, match up one end of the short bias strip with another end of one of the longer bias strips and give it a 1/2″ seam allowance straight down the edge. And just so you know, I sew my bias strips together like this because I think sewing them with a seam that’s on the diagonal is a bunch of malarkey. I really do – and you know what I’m talking about if you’ve done this with drapey fabric – quelle nightmare! So forget that and just stitch the bias strips together down the straight edge and it works out just as well (if not better in my opinion).

Now returning to stitching the bias strips together – stitch each right sides together until you end up with one giant strip that has the small strip in the middle. Make sense? Now press the seams open in your bias strip and let’s move onto attaching it to the neckline.

Step 5 ~ Fold the bias strip in half, but don’t press it in half – we’ll do that later. Just fold it in half, wrong sides together, for now. Now we’re going to take our folded bias strip and with the small strip in center, we’re going to line it up with the back of the neckline so that the bias strip seamlines are about 1″ off of the shoulder seamline with the right side of the bias strip to the wrong side of your neckline. Why, you might be asking? This is to avert having the seam of the bias tape directly over the top of the shoulder seamline which will reduce bulk in the end and no one needs extra bulk anywhere do they?

Pin in place and then continue to pin the folded bias strip in place down the rest of the neckline. Again, right side of bias strip to wrong side of neckline edge, raw edges all together now. Now stitch in place with whatever amount of seamline you picked in step 2 – mine was 3/8″.

Step 6 ~ Press the bias strip away from the neckline edge, making sure that you don’t yet press the fold in the bias strip yet. Seriously, don’t press the bias strip fold yet because we’re going to turn it in the next step and we need to allow for turn of the cloth.

Step 7 ~ Fold the bias tape to the front and pin into your ironing board. Then take your steamy hot iron and steam it in place. Pretty neat trick huh?

Step 8 ~ From here, you can hand baste down the front of the garment to keep the bias binding in place or you can even use a little steam-a-seam to tack the seam down and then edgestitch along the fold of the bias binding.

Not bad, no?

So, now you just need to baste the fronts together, matching the notches. Then stitch the skirt to the bodice. I know. Now you can try on the full dress. My version is looking rather gorgeous if I do say so myself. I nearly fainted from the luxury of the silk when I tried it on today. Sigh. Ok, Ok enough! You’ve seen this version of Simplicity 1880 quite a bit lately, so its time we took a break and let you see a little of my white linen shirt dress version.

Meet me back here tomorrow!
Sunni

OK, let’s have a go at attaching sleeves shall we? Who here loves to attach sleeves? I’ll admit that I really dread attaching sleeves, mostly in part because they take a very long time in my opinion. There’s a lot of prep work and then in the end, for me, this is the hardest point of fit for my body. Grrrhhh!! Anyway, I can’t take credit for this upcoming construction technique I’m about to show you. Earlier this year, I posted about inserting sleeves here. Awesome commenter LinB gave this fabulous tip to that short tutorial I posted:

“You can also sew in the sleeve about 3/4 of the way in the flat — leave a couple of inches unsewn at each end of the armscye. Then complete your bodice and sleeve seams as usual, and you’ll only have to set in the bit of the sleeve that is right at the underarm. I rarely use this technique, as the one you suggest is marvelous; but sometimes the fit at the underarm is better when the sleeve is set in.”

I’ve been using this technique for awhile, just to give it the good old college try and I really quite like it. Oh alright, I love it! So that no one gets confused, here’s my tutorial for inserting the sleeve this way. Just so you are aware, this does take some forethought because it doesn’t work with everything, but in the case of our dresses here, it will!

Updated Disclaimer 7/3/2012 ~ Hey everyone, this tutorial is only for how to insert the sleeves into the garment. Please consult the pattern directions for each of the different sleeve views and how to go about hemming and finishing them. Also, in the below example, I actually had to unpick my sleeve because the cap sleeve option for this particular pattern is supposed to be finished before you insert it into the garment. Silly me….Just consult the pattern directions for the sleeve finish before you insert.

Step 1 ~ Prep the sleeve by stitching two sets of ease stitches around the sleeve cap area, from the double notch in the back to the single notch in the front.

Step 2 ~ Pin the sleeve to the bodice with right sides together, matching notches and circles (I only match the circle at the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seamline – I never bother with the other circles) and easing in the excess fabric in between the notches.

Step 3 ~ Stitch the sleeve to the bodice around the sleeve cap, from the double notches in the back to the single notch in the front. Leave the section at the underarm unstitched for now.

Here’s a tip for future use too: When stitching a seam that has a fair amount of easing, like a sleeve to a bodice, start by stitching with the un-eased portion facing up in the machine. In this case, that would be the bodice because the sleeve is the part that is being eased into the bodice, so the sleeve seamline is longer than the bodice seamline – does that make sense? Again, have the bodice facing upward as you put this into the machine to be stitched. Now here’s the part that is rather difficult to explain, but I’ll give it a go. As you stitch along, slowly and carefully, you’re going to keep your finger on the sleeve part (the section facing downward) trying to feed it through a little bit more than your feeding through the bodice section, the section that should be facing you. Does that make sense? I do this by keeping my finger on the sleeve section of the seam (the section facing downward) and sort of pulling up a little. It takes a bit of practice, but really it is much easier to do than I’m making it sound. Let’s keep going.

Step 4 ~ Stitch the side seam of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeve together and finish the seams. I used a french seam here for my silk crepe dress.

Step 5 ~ Stitch the sleeve to the bodice at the underarm – the section you didn’t stitch in Step 3. Then to secure this section with a little more, security, I add a second row of stitches around that underarm area. From here, finish the sleeve seam – I used my serger, but I think that zig-zagging the seam or even binding it with bias tape works equally as well. Press.

Alright, there you go. This way may seem like a lot of work, but I’m telling you, setting in a sleeve in the flat is, in my opinion, so much easier to do than setting in a sleeve in the round. Give it a try! If you don’t like it, at least you tried it, right? Hopefully you’ll find it to be a bit of a revelation like I did. Enjoy!

xoxo,
Sunni

For you Shirt Dressers, we’ve got interfacing to attach. Now remember there are three pieces that need interfacing. The front bodice and this has its own piece which is piece #3, piece #11 and the undercollar – also remember that these last two pieces I added to the inventory from this post. So attaching interfacing is no big deal right? Well, if it is a big deal to you, have a gander at this tutorial from Gorgeous Fabrics:

No-Bubble Interfacing Application – this one is great for those of you using fusible interfacing

If you happen to be using a sew-in interfacing, you’ll apply it by using a basting stitch (hand or machine, whichever you prefer) around the edges of the interfacing. Do this just inside of the seamline – like at the 1/2″ mark. Hopefully that makes sense. Not hard really.

xoxo,
Sunni

Step 1 ~ To start, gather in between the notches on both the bodice front (piece #1 or #8) and back (piece #6). For your info, I’m using french seams on this here silk crepe wrap dress and on my white linen shirt dress, I’m serging. For more ways to finish your seams, I did a whole series that you can reference here.

Step 2 ~ Attach the yoke back (#7) to the bodice back (#6). From there, attach the yoke fronts (#2 or #9) to the bodice fronts (#1 or #8). A little tip here for the yoke fronts, the notches at the shoulder line should be closer to your arm as opposed to your neck. Yeah, I totally already made that mistake, so don’t worry if you did too.

Step 3 ~ Stitch the bodice fronts to the bodice back at the shoulders. I’ll be showing you a different method for attaching sleeves and to do that you’ll need to leave the side seams for the bodice open, so at this point, only stitch the shoulder seams, Alright? Okey dokey.

Step 4 ~ Stitch the pleats at the waist line. For this step, I decided to go all crazy and give you two methods for doing this. The perfectionist’s way and the lazy stitcher’s way. I’m doing both because I’ve got two crazy sides to my sewing personality – sometimes I’m a serious perfectionist and sometimes I’m rather lazy. Either way, these two different ways will give you two different results and so its up to you which one you want. It totally does not mean that you are a perfectionist or that you’re lazy.

The Perfectionist’s Way to a Perfect Pleat

For this method of doing the pleats at the waistline on Simplicity 1880, it will give you exactly what the pattern intended and that’s that the pleats extend up beyond where the bodice and the skirt meet.

Step 1 ~ Mark your pleats. Someone asked about tips for transferring pattern markings and so I’ll show you how I do it. This is the method I use about 95% of the time and usually I do it right after I’ve cut out the pattern pieces, but I forgot this time (something that tends to happen a lot with me), so I’m showing this step after having pretty much stitched the bodice together using the above steps. To mark the pleats, first of all I’ve cut little clips into the fabric where the pleat marks are. In fact, I actually did that step right after cutting out the pattern piece – go figure.

Next, I take my pins and pin straight up and down through the end of the pleat markings and all thicknesses of fabric and then slid the pin towards the center of the pattern.

Lift the pattern up carefully, and pull back a little bit where the pins are pinned through the pattern and fabric. Mark with a piece of chalk where the pins have poked through the fabric. I use the ridge of the pin as a guide.

Take out your pins and put the pattern piece aside. Take a ruler and your chalk or chalk pen and line up the dots with the clips and draw a straight line.

And that friends, is how I transfer pattern markings – works especially great for darts, in my opinion – well unless their like contoured darts, which I think should be marked with tracing paper and a tracing wheel. OK, let’s keep going.

Step 2 ~ After you’ve marked your pleats, you’ll need to pin them together one by one and stitch. As you pin them together, make sure to start by pinning the top portion of the pleat first, pinning from dot to dot and then work you’re way down to the pleat legs (where the clips are).

Step 3 ~ Stitch the pleat starting at the pleat leg and stitching all the way to the top of the pleat. Back stitch from the top of the pleat, several back stitches (like 5 or 6 stitches) and then stitch forward again one or two stitches making sure that you don’t end this last line of stitching at the top of the pleat. Does that make sense? Doing it this way makes it so that the top of the pleat doesn’t have unsightly stitching that’s coming apart from the inside.

Step 4 ~ Press one side of each pleat flat. This will set your stitches straight. Then press all pleats toward the center front or back making sure not to press above the top of the pleat.

Step 5 ~ Run a basting stitch along each line of pleating at 1/2″.

The Lazy Stitcher’s Way to a Pleat

This by no means, means that you are lazy. But this way offers you a fast and quick way to do the pleats on Simplicity 1880. It differs in appearance from the previous method shown as the pleats do not extend beyond the seamline where the bodice and skirt meet. I’m using this method on my shirt dress version.

Step 1 ~ Clip the pleat legs and bring the legs together and pin the pleat in place. Make sure that the pleats are pointing towards the center front or back of the pattern (or not, if you like it the other way around).

Step 2 ~ Baste stitch the pleats in place at 1/2″. Steam the pleating.

And then you’re done. I know. This method is really fast in comparison, so its really just a matter of what you want.

That friends, is that. Until tomorrow,
Sunni

So I say, stitch up the skirt section first and then either put it on the dress form, or let the thing hang on a hangar until its time to attach it to the bodice. Remember that the double notches go down the center front and center back and that the left side (at least I like my zipper on the left) of the skirt should be left open for your zipper. I’ll be leaving the entire left side seam of the skirt open until after I’ve inserted the zipper as I’m doing an invisible zipper on both dresses. But don’t worry if you don’t want to mess with invisible zippers. I’ve got several resources for how to do other types of zipper insertions too.

Once done, you can put the skirt on the dress form or hanger and let it hang. We’ll move onto the bodice tomorrow. Yay!

xoxo,
Sunni