Handmade Garments

the Button Up Refashion Swap

May 17, 2012 · 23 comments

Friends, here it is! If you follow me on Facebook – which you should – this is the project I posted a little while ago. And this is also the project that I was talking about with my thoughts on refashioning. I’ll admit, I’m a little hooked on refashioning now. Can’t say that I’m really good at it, but I can see the value and sometimes the project can be really easy, like this one I’m about to show you how to do, and it can give you a little boost in your sewing if you need one. And as you know, I’ve needed one.

So about this Blogger Refashion. I was contacted by Miranda of One Little Minute awhile back asking me if I wanted to participate. The premise was simple – refashion a men’s shirt for a blogger that was assigned to you. I couldn’t have been luckier in my partner who was Jen of Grainline (an awesome seamstress and proprietress of downloadable sewing patterns and wearable beauties) because she has nearly identical measurements to mine. Yay! That meant that I could at least try on the refashion and see how it would all work out! Yay! Anyway, there are 10 of us in all and we’re all posting tutorials for our refashions today, so don’t miss out. Here’s the list:

Grainline Studio
Lazy Saturdays
Cotton & Curls
Megan Nielsen Designs
I Still Love You
One Little Minute
MadMim
See Kate Sew
Adventures in Dressmaking

Alright, so let’s discuss what I decided to do for my refashion. I opted to make a box blouse, basically two rectangles sewn together with room left for your arms and head. Yup. It’s so easy, you might just chuckle. Seriously. Amy from Yellow Bird gave me the idea, which by the way, she’s made several and you should head on over to see them because then they’ll give you ideas for what to do if you want to make yourself one. Now here’s the thing, I wanted to keep this simple. I wanted this project to be something you could really whip up in a jiffy and all without the use of a pattern. Something that WILL fit you, because box blouses fit everyone! Got it? Yeah. That’s exactly the idea. So let’s just start with the Box Blouse formula.

The Box Blouse Formula
Width = Hip or Bust measurement (whichever is larger) + 2 – 4 (more if you like) inches of wearing ease + seam allowances (side seams)
Length = the measurement from the shoulder seam to the hem of the finished garment (take this one when wearing a shirt!) + shoulder seam allowance + hem allowance (I like to have at least a good inch)
Note: You’ll need the 4 inches of wearing ease if you are doing a box blouse that doesn’t have a button up front – this to get it over your head, or you can always add a zipper to the side seam if you want to go with less ease!

Not bad right? Here, let me show you what this all would be for me:
My Width = My hip cuz its bigger than the bust (39″) + 2 inches wearing ease + seam allowances (1/2 for each side seam) = 42″
My Length = 25″ from shoulder seam to hem + shoulder seam allowance (1/2″) + hem allowance (1″) = 26.5″

Now before you go a cuttin out, divide your Width by 4. Now go and cut out two rectangles that equal your width divided by 4 x your length, on the fold of the fabric. For me, I would cut two rectangles that are 10.5″ wide x 26.5″ long. Friends, this could not be simpler. Are you with me? If you too would like to refashion a men’s shirt into a box blouse, I recommend deconstructing the shirt by cutting each of the elements out like the shirt fronts, back, (I cut off the yoke) the sleeves. Then cut the back panel of the shirt on the fold and cut the shirt fronts with the center front buttoned up as the foldline.

Stitching it up!
All that’s left is to stitch up your box blouse and maybe add a few details here and there. Stitch your shoulder seams leaving enough room for your head to fit through or if you’re refashioning a men’s shirt, you can opt for a neckline that’s smaller than your head as you’ll have the button up portion at the front. From there stitch the side seams leaving enough room for your arms to fit through and move about in comfortably. Hem the neckline, sleeve and the actual hem at the bottom of the garment. So easy right?

Deconstructing My Refashion
There are details you can add to give your blouse a little edge too. I thought, for a good example I would deconstruct the blouse I refashioned to give you some ideas. I used the neckline of a sewing pattern to create a sweet rounded neckline. You too could also take the neckline from a favorite sewing pattern or even an actual garment. I also added bias tape, made from the sleeve of the original shirt, to finish off the neckline plus give it a sweet little tie bow.

For a little more fit, I took in little pleats at the natural waistline. Just tacked those down with a fine zigzag stitch.

At the hemline, since I didn’t have quite enough fabric to do a full 10.5″ width for each of the rectangles, I thought “Oh Well!” and left little open vents at the side seams. I’ve found with refashions that as you go along you make constant changes to the base of the garment, which doesn’t have to be a bad thing. More of an inventive fix, right?

I took off the old buttons and replaced them with new ones and also added a few more buttons & buttonholes to keep the blouse from gaping you know where. And finally I removed the pocket, but could easily have added another more stylish one.

Now Friends, how’s that for easy? How’s that for getting your sewing mojo on the level again? What do you think of my refashion? Like it? Wanna make one for yourself? You should! So easy, and really such a great blouse to jump into summer with. Jen will be give you a fashion show of it next week, in the meantime, I’m working on another for myself.

On the hunt for another refashion….
Sunni

PS ~ We’ll all be showing off the refashions that were made for us next week! Suzannah from Adventures in Dressmaking did mine and its delightful – I really can’t wait to show it to you! Yay! Here’s a schedule of when you’ll see us in our button up refashions:
Monday, May 21st ~ Lizzie of Cotton & Curls, Krista of Lazy Saturdays
Tuesday, May 22nd ~ Sunni of A Fashionable Stitch, Kate of See Kate Sew
Wednesday, May 23rd ~ Suzannah of Adventures in Dressmaking, Miranda of One Little Minute
Thursday, May 24th ~ Miriam of MadMim, Melissa of I Still Love You
Friday, May 25th ~ Megan of Megan Nielsen Design, Jennifer of Grainline Studio

{ 23 comments }

Pyjama Party Extravaganza!

April 28, 2012 · 33 comments

Friends, here they are! I’ve been talking about these a bit on me old facebook page. I didn’t even finish stitching the last stitch until last night, when me, myself and I had a bit of a slumber party while I slept in them for the night too. Alright slumber party fiends, let’s get onto the details.

These pants were a total stash buster. I didn’t spend any money on anything new! Yay! I used McCall’s 5990 and the fabric here is one that actually belongs in a bed – a thrifted top sheet, which looked barely used and I’ve had in the stash, with the intention of making into pj bottoms, for sometime now. The cute little polka dotted details are a quilting cotton I had way too much of in the stash and it seemed too perfect not to use with my main fabric! Originally I cut these puppies out and found out that I needed a few alterations. I know, I’m crazy, but I’m seriously kind of weird about how my pj bottoms fit. These needed some extra fabric in the rear and the original pattern was tapered. Now, I don’t have anything against tapered pants, but oh my goodness, these were a rather more horrific version of mom jeans. So when all was said and done, I made some alterations to the pattern and cut them out again with just enough fabric to spare.

I added pockets to the front because I’m a pocket addict and besides, who doesn’t need pockets to carry little surprises in? Their piped too! I also drafted a sweet pocket for the back, cute huh? This pattern came with hem cuffs instead of the traditional hem and I have to say that I adore this! It’s basically just a rectangle that’s been folded in two and attached to the bottom of the pant. I used petersham in the waistband (as well as elastic) and also added little tabs at the side and back pocket – a detail I totally love. Kind of gives everything a more finished look, wouldn’t you say?

All in all, I would say I went wayyyyyy overboard for a pair of pj bottoms. Wouldn’t you? It’s kind of one of those types of things that its fun to get carried away with and use wacky and cute fabric combinations that you couldn’t really wear in real life. My inner 10 year old is totally oogling over these!

Karen demanded our bedside reading material and I’m one of those people who read and keep alot of books at their bedside. Let’s take a look at what’s there today, shall we? A copy of Threads, like the good proper stitcher that I am. Can’t go to sleep without a wink of sewing advice, right? Self Matters, by Dr. Phil, a book which is actually quite good and one I’m going through bit by bit. I also have Sarah Ban Breathnach’s Romancing the Ordinary, which I take out for days when I’m feeling particularly in need of emotional refreshment. Last but not least is How to Win Friends and Influence People by Dale Carnegie, a book I thrifted awhile back and one which my dad encouraged me to read a long time ago. Normally, I do have a novel of the detective variety here, but I’ve been unusually unhappy with several of the detectives in novels that I’ve read as of late. And there you go. It’s a wonder I get anything done, the way my brain is scattered….

Hop on over to Did You Make That? to participate in the pyjama-rama. There’s so much fun I can barely contain myself! Tonight demands that I make some cookies, watch Bridget Jones and paint my toenails.

zzzzzz….
Sunni

{ 33 comments }

Strawberry Banksia

April 10, 2012 · 15 comments

Somehow, I feel that my time has been in a bit of a whirlwind since January and I’ve not done things that I really should have. One is to tell you that I’ve now started to carry a few Megan Nielsen’s sewing patterns in the shop. These are rather sweet patterns and I’ve started to see several versions pop up all over the blogospheres and am now happy to report that I’ve made myself a Banksia blouse from one.

Let’s see, where to start. I’ve been working on a wrap dress (more on that later) that I’m drafting myself. It’s my first ever full draft of a dress and I’m actually rather impressed with myself, but its been a bit of a big job and I needed a distraction of sorts and found that this pattern only had 5 pattern pieces. I like it when you can make something from a small amount of pattern pieces. I whipped this number out in a day, which I found amazing because normally I tend to allow projects to sit for a day or two on things like hemming and the like (I hate hemming, because then it means the project is usually over).

I altered the pattern with my sloper (this is becoming a rather invaluable tool) and then proceeded to cut it out in this strawberry coloured linen which as you can only guess is from Yellow Bird Fabrics (have I mentioned that I really do love this store?). It stitched up really quickly! I was a little shaky when it came to the placket, but the directions were quite spot on and I found the insertion quite easy to do. The buttons were from the stash and if I do say so myself, their oversized size makes for a rather Anthropologie-esque feel. Kinda cute right?

I misjudged the length for this thing – something I’ve fixed for a future round, but I’m happy to report that adding a band of fabric to the bottom for increased length only means that I’m resourceful rather than dismayed that I didn’t get every single thing perfectly right. Right?

I’m pretty happy with the finished result – I think I’ll be more happy with a pair of black cotton sateen clovers to go with it. That’ll be the icing the on the cake I’m quite sure. Easy pattern=sweet blouse! And because I promised to give you a resource list, here you go:

Banksia Blouse pattern – similar fabric

I don’t know about you, but I’m aching for a strawberry smoothie just about now…

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 15 comments }

Simplicity Blog Hop!

March 29, 2012 · 46 comments

I was contacted a bit ago by Simplicity to participate in a blog hop along with several other bloggers! (Hey guys, please excuse my yesterday’s post which wasn’t supposed to go up until today but which I accidently hit publish for and didn’t realize it until it was too late! Oi!) I was overjoyed and was sent 3 patterns from which I was to choose one to mock up and feature here at A Fashionable Stitch. There’s something of a Vintage Inspired Look celebration going on over at Simplicity and you can jump on over to enter to win a pack of the same 3 patterns I received and then choose one, like me, and make your own. You should also sign up for Simplicity’s newsletter while you’re at it (and get 15% off so you can buy those new Cynthia Rowley dresses like I did)!

Here I sit, eating a mouthful of oreo cookies, drinking whole milk and listening to Carmina Burana. This has been one of those projects where somehow my sewing mojo was off but now that the photos have been taken, I gave myself leave to celebrate with some sugar and fat. Originally, I told Mr. S to pick the pattern for me and he actually picked Simplicity 2282. Then we went fabric shopping and found some rather fantastic marigold colored silk charmeuse at Yellow Bird and from there we went home. When I got home, I put the silk up to my face and couldn’t imagine a worse color for my complexion! So a whole dress in that color would have looked rather interesting, I’m sure. So, since I blew a chunk of change on silk, I opted to go shopping in my stash and found this rust colored linen that I’ve had for years and have been needing to use for something. I thought about doing Simplicity 2282, but then I thought – No! I want Simplicity 1913!

Long story short I tried many of the pattern options for this dress, but found that my final version here, was the best suited for my shape and fashion sensibilities. I really wanted the version that had the sleeves, the carriers and sash and the collar. I had stitched the sleeves in and the collar and felt rather….off. Just wasn’t doin it for me. So I scrapped the collar, then I decided to scrap the sleeves too because they weren’t helping things.

I really wanted to keep the cute little gathers at the hips. But friends, let’s get some things straight with this here old Sunni Standing. I can’t do gathers at my waist. No seriously. I can’t. And what’s way weird is that I keep trying. And trying. And trying. So it’s now official – there will be no more trying to do gathers at my waist. No more! I love gathers at the waist too – especially when I see them all cute and darling on everyone else. But I can’t pull them off. I don’t even know why either. But I can’t. So to avert the gathers at Sunni’s waist (I did try them too – clearly my seam ripper and I are real tight now, real tight) I seam ripped and put in tucks. Even weirder, I can do tucks but not gathers. Totally don’t get it.

Let’s move onto some good stuff, OK? I now have a rather stylish and chic sheath dress, in a color that screams ME. Plus its linen and I LOOOOOVE linen. Yeah, I’m a fan of the wrinkle. Totally love that. So anyway, I’ve got this dress now and its fully lined! This was no easy feat, I tell you. The skirt section has a back vent and so I did my whole back vent thing (which I promise to show you soon). Let’s talk about comfort factor too. Real comfortable. I decided not to make this dress so fitted, but rather semi-fitted. Feels like pjs. Plus throw on a cardigan and a pair of flats and I’ve just turned this glamorous look into something that I can wear around crazy 14 year olds!

I used a trick from Gertie for the skirt section and tapered it in by 1 inch (4 inches total) at the hem (btw, I believe she usually does 2 inches – 8 inches total, but I wasn’t quite that brave). The result is more flattering I think, giving the illusion that my hips beautifully round down into my knees. Clever, clever! I adore the princess seams, which is not something I tend to gravitate to so I’m glad to be forced out of my comfort zone a little. My invisible zipper application was perfect and all of my seams align rather perfectly too. I was going to do the carriers and sash, but since the dress is semi fitted, putting a belt around my waist just kind of cinched the fabric all up weird. So I went for that tab with the buttons. I feel pretty mod in an updated 60′s sort of way. Simplicity 1913 – conquered!

Friends – don’t miss out on the giveaway! And don’t miss Susannah’s version of Simplicity 1913 which aired yesterday. And guess who’s coming up? Why Lavender’s got somethin somethin up her sleeve, Zoe’s going to turn heads and Tilly’s got some sweet stitchin coming your way too. Enjoy!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 46 comments }

Mustard Seed

March 6, 2012 · 68 comments

This knit top and skirt were projects two and three from February. Aren’t you terribly proud of me? I’ve made my goal for January and February and well, that makes me seriously happy. Not only that, but here you see that I’ve actually made an outfit! Now that takes skill, friends. Skill.

Let’s talk the top first. McCall’s 6513. I LOVE this top. I’ve got to make myself another one. I was so happy with the way it turned out. The idea to make a top like this sprung into my head from Kristin over at K-line. After her navy blue number I went out in search of the Vogue pattern she used and of course, found it sold out locally. I happened upon this McCall’s number immediately after as I was flipping through the pattern books. Match made in heaven.

It’s made from a stable heathery grey knit that I got from Yellow Bird. I get tons of compliments when I wear this top – even Mr. S likes it! In fact, he LOVES it. I could wear this thing everyday. Yup! I should have a pattern review up by the end of this week if you’re interested in making it up yourself and would like to read a review. The pattern had a few quirks, no more than usual. But, you know.

Now for the skirt. The skirt was an experiment really. It’s my own pattern draft and it’s a gored little thing. I’ve been having serious accordian pleat skirt envy and though I know this is not an accordian pleated skirt, I was thinking of a way to have one made up in a natural fiber. If you don’t know, accordian pleated skirts are usually synthetic – polyester, nylon, etc. – and many are chemically treated to hold a pleat and well, I don’t have access to pre-pleated fabric, much less chemicals to hold pleats. Whatever. This baby is made from wool crepe – another purchase from Yellow Bird. By the way, have I ever mentioned that I adore wool crepe? Maybe not, but I do. It’s such a gorgeous fabric in my humble opinion. I seriously think the world of it. So when I found it in this mustardy yellow color, I had to have it.

Again, this skirt is gored and then for added kicks I stitched a tuck down the center of each gore and pressed it to one side. I have to admit, the result is totally cool and reminds me so much of the 70′s era. The color, style and drape give it that great retro vibe. It may not exactly be an accordian pleated skirt, but I’ll still give it high marks as it turned out rather interesting. Dontcha think?

I thought I would try something new here too and give you all the link to the pattern or similar pattern used and a link to a similar fabric plus all the extras. I’ve seen this on style blogs and I love it! So if you have to have one of your own, here goes:

Knit Blouse – McCall’s 6513 – similar cloth
Skirt – self drafted (similar pattern) – similar cloth
Belt – Belt & Buckle Kit

March is going to be seriously busy around here! I’m excited that I’ll be participating in some sewing excitement around the blogsphere. Anyway, what’s on your sewing table for March? I’m just about to finish up my version of the Darling Ranges dress. Think elephants. Navy. You know, the usual.

Kiss Kiss,
Sunni

{ 68 comments }

Sweetheart Blouse

February 21, 2012 · 30 comments

This blouse has been done for a time, but I haven’t had the opportunity yet to wear it. It’s too chill outside and I’m sure it will be for quite a bit longer here in Utah and it just doesn’t do to wear a sweater over the top of it. Awww, well. This is a copycat blouse that I directly stole from Lauren. It’s the Violet from Colette made up in cotton swiss dot. I was actually a pattern tester for this pattern and after making a muslin of it, I put it away for another day. Seeing Lauren’s version made me think of this swiss dot I already had in my stash and from there I knew I had to have one. Plus it was a perfect opportunity to get out my recently perfected bodice sloper and use it to alter the pattern to fit me perfectly. More on this to come – promise!

Having made this bodice sloper and taken a class on how to use it, I could see exactly where my problems in this blouse would be. It was positively brilliant. I had to made a serious adjustment to the yoke and back bodice panels – added a whole 1.5″ back there. I raised the armscye a bit, pointed the dart more heavenward, beveled out the side seams a little and added some length overall. It totally fits perfectly and I didn’t even make a muslin of the changes. Hah! Now how’s that for bravery?

It’s adorned with sweet yellowish flower buttons and looks rather sweet paired with jeans or my Sew Grateful Skirt. Plus it’s white and I’ve needed a white button up for ages. Twill be perfect for summer. The swiss dot was purchased very long ago – I can’t even remember where and is rather sheer. However, I was up for something sheer this time. I’ve been loving some of the sheer blouses that have come out recently and I’ve wanted one for awhile. I’m working on a silk crepe de chine camisole to go underneath and should have it finished up by the end of this week, I think. I’m very excited!

Overall, I’m very happy with how this blouse turned out. What do you think? It’s a very “sweet” sort of design and gives me a bit of the “child at heart perk” as Mr. S would say. Once the camisole is finished, I’ll give you a proper model of it, OK? Alright.

What are you up to for Spring sewing? I’m brainstorming some ideas we could all work on together. Maybe like a contest or something. What do you think?

Spring Dreams,
Sunni

{ 30 comments }

Sew Grateful Skirt

February 9, 2012 · 25 comments

Sew Grateful Week has been fabulous, hasn’t it! Yay! If you haven’t, jump over to Debi’s blog where she’s consolidated much of the goings on and given you all links to some great sew gratefulness out there.

Ever since I saw Casey’s Ginger skirt version – a great vintage-ish denim number – I knew I had to have one just like it. I’ve been in dire need of a denim skirt. Seriously dire. Especially as my lifestyle now is more laid back and wearing casual clothing is becoming more and more of a necessity. Since I wear my denim shirtdress so much – and this only since the beginning of January – I felt that adding more denim pieces to my wardrobe would be a great idea. Adding this skirt has been no exception.

I didn’t differ too far from Casey’s version. I used her clever pocket tutorial, but left out the buttons and opted to topstitch heavy thread a top the pockets, waistband and hem. Originally, I started out using a plain old denim needle from the stash to topstitch, but soon found that as I really wanted doubled stitching lines and the single needle was making a serious mess of the a double stitching line, I went in search of a twin needle. I had read about twin needles somewhere, and I actually have one and I’ve used it before on my knit top. But twin needles can come in different widths and I wanted one that was wider than the one I had. Got one and used it here on this skirt and Voila! perfectly spaced twin topstitching lines.

I hope you guys have had a seriously good week. My Sew Grateful week has been a fairly good one. I watched a favorite movie last night – Romancing the Stone. I’m such a sucker for Kathleen Turner and even more of a sucker for Michael Douglas. Ha! And I’ve been working on a blouse – another copycat. It’ll be done soon and then I’ll show it off. Thanks to everyone who has already entered the Sew Grateful Giveaway! Your comments have been swell to read and keep bringing a serious smile to my face. If you haven’t entered, you’ve still got a couple more days, so don’t miss out.

Ciao,
Sunni

{ 25 comments }

Same Song, Second Verse, Just as Good as the First

February 2, 2012 · 50 comments

Friends, you know I’m almost right on quota for last month. Everything has just seemed to fall in place and the stars have aligned. Here’s garment no. 2 for the month of January – no. 3 is coming right up. Meet my second version of the shirtdress – Green with Envy! She’s made of an emerald green rayon ponte knit that I got from Yellow Bird Fabrics. All round, I’m pretty delighted with this version. I changed up the sleeve a bit and made some fitting adjustments for the bodice given the fact that this is a knit. I took Lauren’s advice for this from when I posted about my first attempt at knits. She warned that all knits are different and to stretch them to fit, which I did. The result took out all of the built in ease in the sleeve and side seams – and you all remember my deal with putting my arms in front of me comfortably. Go figure. Stretch fabrics are awesome that way, especially when they have great cross-grain stretch with little to no straight grain stretch.

The only thing better than feeling like a rockstar in this dress is that I swear I’m wearing pajamas. Good heavens this thing is comfortable. Not only that but I’ve never been especially fond of this particular shade of green and I have no idea why. It does some divine things for my coloring, dontcha think?

I made the belt using this as my inspiration for it. It keeps closed with a couple of snaps. It totally reminds me of some sort of cake confection. I’m happy with that – most times I tend to overdo this type of thing but here its just a brilliant accessory. Just enough, you know.

I’m pretty proud of myself and this dress. Sigh. What can I say? I get all sorts of looks when I wear it. Mr. S says it will most definitely come in handy around St. Patrick’s Day and I have to agree. In fact, he could probably just ship me off to Ireland and I would fit right in, red hair and all.

With that Friends, have an early St. Patty’s Day Irish Coffee on me. PS ~ Happy Groundhog Day! Yay!

Smooches,
Sunni

{ 50 comments }

the Dress that Nearly Killed Me!

January 11, 2012 · 76 comments

Here it is. That dress. Pretty cute huh? I’m so completely in love with it, that I’m just about to cut out another – in an emerald green ponte knit. So, I already told you much of the background on this dress, you know, perfect fit and all that. I’ll cover my findings on how I went about fitting the bodice with the sleeve later on. For now, here’s some more fun facts and ideas for you:

✂ The skirt of this is none other than the Sewaholic’s Lonsdale (Tasia, you now have complete monopoly on my skirts). I went for an above the knee length and have to admit, above the knee looks better on me than below the knee for this particular style.
✂ The skirt section is interlined in a whale of a print flannel (meaning there’s whales on it, ha!), just for warmth. Well, and for fun cause I’m silly like that.
✂ I also used the flannel as my stabilizer for the buttonhole placket and collar. Worked out wonderfully too.
✂ The sleeve is my own design – besides taking the cap from Simplicity 2724. I managed to take out the fullness from the original design and tacked on a pretty cute tie embellishment to the bottom.

✂ The buttons are hand covered buttons made with the wrong side of the fabric. I’m about to make a belt too, but you know, I was practically jumping out of my skin to show you this dress.
✂ The fabric is a denim – almost a chambray type, lightweight – from Joann. The flannel was from Joann too. So were the hand cover buttons.
✂ The collar was trimmed down to be shorter so that it could stand up instead of fall down. That means that the placket and lapel were thinned out too. Since I like my look better with the collar standing up, I flipped the stabilizer (the flannel in this case) to the undercollar instead of applying it to the upper collar. Have to say it makes a huge difference too – the collar stays up all day.

✂ I stabilized the buttonhole placket with flannel, but the flip side – where the buttons are attached – is stabilized with a strip of rayon petersham, also from the shop. Hemmed it all up in petersham too.
✂ My fingers went blue from the indigo dye every time I worked on this dress.
✂ I feel rather Daphne-esque (Scooby Do, you know) in this dress, especially with my hair down, and I’m fine with that. Mr. S is not.

That’s about it, I think. What do you think? Oh yes. I’m sure you are wondering if I can, indeed, put my arms out comfortably in front of me. Why yes. Yes, I can. It’s a beauty, eh? After finishing this dress, I keep wondering why I haven’t made more things in denim. Do you even have any idea how easy this dress is to wear to anything? I’ve no doubt that I’ll be wearing it, until it literally falls off my body. Classic. Timeless. Cute. Stylish. Comfortable too.

I know I’m a geek. It’s totally OK if before these photos you didn’t think I was, but now you know I am. It’s a wonderful Wednesday! Thanks for tuning in to my show and tell.

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 76 comments }

the Quest for a Perfect Fit

January 5, 2012 · 33 comments

I have a thing with getting just the right fit in a garment. It’s one of the plethora of reasons why I sew now instead of buying RTW – though I do still purchase clothing here and there. I had long avoided making anything that required a perfect fitting bodice with sleeve. But then I decided that I really wanted a perfectly fitted shirtdress. That one dress that brings out everything I love about my body and gives me a little Oooomph in the upper body. Now, you may ask, “Why? Why, Sunni, have you avoided a making a piece with a perfectly fitted bodice?” I’ll give it to you straight. Two words ~ armscye and sleeve. Enter my Christmas Break project. Come on now, don’t be shy…

This is the shirtdress folks. The bodice anyway. Originally it started its life as McCall’s 4769, but there is so little left of the original pattern that I’m terribly tempted to say it’s mine. Fine, I’ll just say it. It’s mine with a collar and button down placket from McCall’s 4769. And this thing fits like a glove.

Let’s get back to my piece on the armscye and sleeve, shall we? Yes, let’s, because I’m quite sure that you are all dying to know what my big problem with this thing is. Well, let me tell you. Not only do I have a very forward thrusting shoulder (this means that my actual shoulder, actually thrusts forward more than what is considered the norm)(it also means that it thrusts forward a good whole inch more than a traditional commercial pattern) but I also have a very broad upper back (this means that only the upper back is broad not my entire back – and it also means that its quite broad by about 1.5″ beyond traditional commercial patterns). What it all comes down to folks is that when I make a bodice on anything – shirt, dress, jumper, jacket, etc. – I can’t put my arms comfortably out in front of me. Daily activities like driving, eating, opening a door feels restrictive and quite frankly, by the end of the day it starts hurting because the fabric has rubbed my skin raw in the front shoulder/upper arm area. In fact, I stopped buying woven shirts altogether because of this very issue.

So, now I’m sure you’re wondering what this all has to do with McCall’s 4769. For starters, I made about 7 or 8 (maybe more, there were so many that my memory is a bit shaky) of that particular bodice. It’s really just a basic sloper bodice – two darts in front and one in back – and I put sleeves in each and every one and in not a single one could I put my arms comfortably in front of me. Finally after exhaustive thinking and doing, sewing and cutting, slashing and spreading, I had a serious epiphany and reached for Simplicity 2724, something I had completely forgotten I had made with much success (this is the Naughty Secretary Dress btw). This is the one bodice with sleeve dress that has worked like a charm. And it is now my sloper/fitting shell, etc for the top portion of my body. Granted I had to lengthen it, put the darts back in and take the puffiness out of the sleeve, but in the end, I think I’ve got something that is nothing short of a revelation for me. I intend to start using it to see what I need to change on a pattern before I go directly into creating a muslin. I’m rather excited about it to say the least.

What’s that one item you are afraid of making? Do you fear/dread the awful adjustment of trying to fit it just right? When you fit something, are there things you are willing to live with and things you just won’t? Arms being able to drive my vehicle ranks rather high for me. And now, I can! Yay!

I have a few things to finish up on this dress (as you can see) before I give you all the big reveal, but don’t worry. You will be jealous. Guaranteed. Indeed, I do believe that you should be after 7 or 8 (possibly 10-ish) muslins.

xoxo,
Sunni

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