February 28, 2017
Made: Burdastyle 2/2016 Men's Jacket
Organic Cotton Plus and one of the gals there contacted me in January and asked if I would review some fabric and in return I could pick what I wanted and have it shipped to me. I've actually worked with Organic Cotton Plus before and interestingly enough, made a jacket that time too. I decided to collaborate again because my previous experience was so positive. This was a very nice fabric to work with and a little unique in composition. It's made up of hemp/cotton/wool. The hemp in particular is a bit like linen. This was wonderfully lightweight and when it came, I was happy with the hand and weight and felt that it would do quite well as a spring/summer jacket. Organic Cotton Plus has started to branch out into some prints and also some interesting fiber compositions in the last while or so and that is always exciting to see!
BurdaStyle men's patterns. This jacket has 4 or 5 variations and while it doesn't give you all the instructions for the different patterns in one, if you know what you're doing it's easy enough to figure out after a bit. I mean BurdaStyle instructions are laughable anyway, so really, the pattern (and rather impeccable drafting) is the game changer here. I wish they would do women's patterns like this. I would love 4 variations in one that are truly different from each other and not just, add a pocket here or switch out the collar there. The jacket pattern to end all jacket patterns, eh?
Structure and Shape class and first of all was mesmerized that Alison was from a place called Ashby-De-La-Zouch and that she had such a superb british accent. I felt that her interfacing methods were worth a try. She has several jackets that are either worn or on display or that she works on that look fantastic. I'd like to try all of the interfacing methods - she goes through 3 - but for this jacket, I narrowed in on the fusible method. My fabric was a bit shifty, loosely woven and thin and I felt it would benefit from the fusibles/glues. It did and I'm happy with the outcome. Alison warned that this sort of tailoring treatment would result in a soft type of jacket, and I am happy to report that it did (which is what I was aiming for as per Mr. AFS input). The mister wanted something lightweight and comfortable and this did the trick. Really a perfect combination for a lighter weight, more casual jacket. I especially liked Alison's treatment of the shoulder and the tapes around the edges of certain pieces. This particular Craftsy class is definitely worth the splurge, if only for the fusible tailoring treatments. What I've found - because I actually have several online tailoring classes and several books on the subject - is that there is no one way to tailor a jacket. There seem to be general guidelines, but then it comes down to the wearer too and what they want. A subject for another time I think, but I'm interested in doing more jackets this year. Goodness knows I have the fabric for it!
Easy Guide to Sewing Linings and also Sew Stylish Magazine Fall 2010 (Bagging a Lining). This jacket has a classic vent in the back that I wanted to retain and there are instructions in Easy Guide to Sewing Linings on how to do this and then the rest of the lining was done with the Sew Stylish article. I attached the collar using an industry method from Threads Magazine no. 68 (The Foolproof Notched Collar) which I really liked, but I'm interested in trying some different methods too. By the way, I love Threads magazine with passion and have all the back issues! I am a nut for anything sewing.
For the most part, I'm happy with how this jacket turned out. I haven't sewn a jacket in quite some time and so this was a good refresher. Mr. AFS was very excited about this jacket and I feel that the thinner lapels and overall slim look of the pattern accentuates his tall, thin self. The fabric was great to work with - yes, this is my plug for Organic Cotton Plus! This is going to work wonderfully as a lightweight Spring/Summer jacket and will last the mister a long time too. Whew! If you have now made it to the end here, can we all comment on how posh Mr. AFS looks? <whistle> Mr. Dapper over here! Now. Back to sewing some items for myself....
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