I cut a size 14 and graded to a 16 in my upper back between the shoulders/under arms - my cheater full back adjustment these days that seems to work really well. If you are wondering, my neck to shoulder point is a 14. I grade to a 16 from the shoulder point to the underarm and then I grade back down to a 14 from underarm to waist. This is in the back only as I have a forward shoulder and don't need this same adjustment in the front. I don't mess with the sleeve, unless I find that it needs a little work in the muslin. What with sleeve cap ease, I find that the sleeve is rather forgiving when put into a slightly altered armscye. After trying on the muslin with shoulder pads, I found that the sleeve was still strained when I moved my arms. However, I had plenty of room in the upper back. I found that the armholes were cut rather deep for my frame and the sleeve was trying to lock my arms in a down position as there was too much sleeve cap ease.
I love the pleats in the jacket fronts here and didn't realize that those actually hide a pocket. After reading some pattern reviews on this jacket, I read that the pocket is silly, being to shallow and ill shaped to really be useful, so I chucked the pocket, but kept the pleats for the final jacket. Basically the equivalent of keeping the pocket "sealed" instead of open.
I picked out this gorgeous rosey camel colored wool twill suiting from the stash to make this jacket up in. I'm banking on a neutral, go with everything kind of piece here as I could really use a jacket that just went with everything but still looked professional at work. We shall see. I've already cut out the jacket and have made a good dent in the sewing. I'll keep y'all updated on the progress.
Ever been interested in sewing one of these Claire Shaeffer designs? Have you sewn one of them? What has been your experience?