November 11, 2015

Cutlery for Apparel Sewing

Last week, when I shared some tool tips for beginners, I thought it might be a good idea to talk about the arsenal of cutlery I've acquired over the years for various stages of the sewing process. I found that when it comes to the world of scissors, there is something that fits nearly every circumstance. There's a lot of choices, which is great! Yay for choice!

You might be asking, "Why do I need more than one pair of scissors?" It's a valid question and one that I asked too. As I've sewn more and more garments over the years, I've found the value of having lots of different types of scissors that work better than others do in different stages of the construction process. I don't know if you've ever had the pleasure, but I've cut holes into garments from using the wrong scissors. It's a cold compress moment. Tears are usually shed. Expletives start flying. It's not pretty.

Let's start with the old standbys. My fabric cutting shears. I have three pairs of these. I have a pair of Kai's that are great for most everything. They could slice through steel I tell ya! I also have a pair of spring-loaded Gingher's that I use only on silk fabrics. I end up working a lot with wool and a lot with silk and I've found that wool actually dulls my shears a little, so I opted to invest in a pair that was only for silks and/or thin fabrics like lining so that I wouldn't have to get them sharpened as often. I also have a pair of Gingher serrated shears that are marvelous for those extra, extra tricksy slippery fabrics. The knife edge has tiny micro serrations in it and they grip the fabric and then slice and they are ideal for silk charmeuse or chiffon.

My next most used pairs of scissors are my nippers. They are a Gingher pair, but I've used others with success too. I use nippers for cutting threads and they stay right next to my sewing machine while I sew. I have tried to get used to the thread cutter on my machine, but I like the ritual of using my nippers. It's a funny little preference as I do love speed, but it's something I do.

My tailor points come next (on the right above). These are a little 5 inch pair of Gingher scissors that I use all the time for clipping, trimming and grading. They are probably my favorite pair, I use them so much! The short length helps protect against the dreaded slice into the garment. Mainely Dad also recommends bandage scissors that help protect against that sort of thing even more! I've yet to try a pair, but my mister also agrees with as he's worked in a hospital using these. Look, these ones are serrated! I use these Gingher Applique Scissors (on the left above) for narrow hems, like say on a circle skirt. Surprisingly that's about the only thing I use these for, but I do find them very useful in that instance. They are handy to have around when you need to get nice and close to an edge.

Last, but not least, I do have a pair of Gingher pinkers. I've seen these used as a seam finish, but I use them for trimming curved seams. You know how you're supposed to notch or clip curved seams so they lay right? I use pinkers instead and trim the seam to about 1/4". Granted this is only on enclosed seams, but they are very useful for this purpose.

Back a few years ago, I made a little peg board especially for my shears (and then from there I added other items to it too). It's very handy as all my scissors are hanging up and out of the way and they are easy to access when I need them. Took an old picture frame from a thrift shop and had some peg board precut to the right dimensions and voila - instant scissor hanger!

There's my arsenal of scissors. I don't use much in the way of a rotary cutter - though I have two for odd jobs. I'm a shears and scissors lover. What about you? Are there special scissors that really help you? Or do you use a rotary cutter? Thoughts on the best ones you've tried? We'd all love to know!
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