October 5, 2015

some like it hot. really hot.

It was fairly recently that I discovered that Style Arc now has an Etsy shop where you can purchase PDF versions of many of their patterns. I stalked it for awhile. I mean, I actually have several of their patterns that I've ordered and have the printed paper copy of (their official webstore is located here). Having only heard good things about Style Arc - especially as concerns fit - I've long wanted to try one. Why I couldn't just settle for using one that I've already purchased I don't know. I have that squirrel disease. "Oh look, SQUIRREL!!!!!!!" In other words, my attention span has been fairly short lately.

It only got shorter when I saw a few versions of the Kate wrap dress. If there's one thing that I know about myself, it's this. I love wrap dresses, but never make them. Yet, whenever I'm pattern perusing/shopping, guess what pattern I always end up purchasing? Some sort of wrap dress. Always. I couldn't even begin to tell you how many I have. Another disease, I'm certain, but I have a lot of them. Wrap dress patterns, I mean. Not diseases. So the Kate dress. This one somehow, jumped into my Etsy shopping cart and was downloaded and printed before I could even mouth the words Kate in my half-crazed-Kate-Dress-looking-up-everything-and-every-image/review-internet-vortex-stupor.

I cut out and stitched up, what was supposed to be, a wearable muslin. That didn't turn out. I mean they never do for me because I'm such a picky thing. I think I might finally be cured of the idea that I can make a wearable muslin. Ha. Anyway, the muslin told me a few things that I needed to fix and most importantly it told me that fabric choice in this dress is key. Non of that slinky, show-every-lump-and-bump kind of rayon jersey that I used in my muslin. I needed to use something beefier. So I decided to splurge on a stash piece of wool knit. It's a pretty nice wool knit and it was perfect for the job.

All in all, I made very few alterations to the pattern, which I found impressive (and which then prompted me to go right ahead and purchase a couple more downloadables from the Etsy shop, but hey who's keeping tabs on that kind of thing?). I opted to use the left front for both front wrap pieces - wasn't wild about the tucks on the right front for me (even though yes, I tried them). I lowered the waistline to where my waistline actually is which was about 1 1/2" down from the original pattern. I chopped about 2 1/2" off the hem (after lowering the waist). I took 1/2" off of the neckline all the way around because, hey I'm up for a little sex appeal here and there and a little more skin was just the ticket. I got rid of the tucks in the sleeve (personal preference) and shortened it a mite. Lengthened the tie about 15 inches (wanted to be able to tie in the front) and Voila! done. These are pretty minor tweaks if you ask me - most of which are purely aesthetic. I mean usually I have to do a major forward shoulder adjustment on the bodice coupled with a broad upper back adjustment. Add in a sway back, plus a serious side seam take-in at hips and waist even though my measurements are a whole inch bigger than the size chart measurements on the back of the pattern envelope (I'm sure y'all have no idea which pattern companies these might be, right? Right???)

Some construction deets. These Style Arc patterns come with a few lines of written instruction at best. I'm totally fine with this as I usually have a better construction method than the directions offer anyway. I opted to do a turned under neckline binding and I did the binding out of cotton/lycra jersey, for comfort. I applied it just like bias tape, due to the bulk, and then shortened it so that it hugged the neck. No gaping here! I used SewKeyZ woven stay tape for the shoulders and the knit stay tape for the hem of the dress. Used my coverstitch for the sleeve hem and dress hem and well, there's not much more to say. This dress is easy peasy. Would even recommend to a beginner.

Wearing one of my Gertie slips underneath this dress and it works out wonderfully! Works well and makes it nice and comfortable against the itch factor of the wool - though the wool isn't that itchy, slips or linings always help, in my opinion. Plus, in the event that our Utah wind flips the wrap flaps open, I'm covered, literally!

Expect more Kate Wraps in my future. I'm on the lookout for a printy ponte as I feel the print would hide some of those lumps and bumps better (I know, we all have them, well at least I do). This thing is just the ticket for a working girl. Secret pajamas I'm telling you. Plus, once I find the right silk jersey for the job, it's full blown DVF territory - if I haven't hit that already. For those interested, here's my full review of this pattern. Cheers and here's to a happy October!
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