September 16, 2014

I'm looking at you, J. Peterman

Marlene Dietrich, here I come. The best complement to this coat would be a stunning pair of leather gloves, a shot of cognac and a cigar. Puff, puff. Keeping warm on those unusually crisp fall outings never looked quite so chic. Who said plaid was only for lumberjacks?
Pattern: Yona Wrap Coat by Named
Made in the U.S.A by the one and only Sunni Standing with fabric especial from A Fashionable Stitch - 100% wool plaid coating (with plaids impeccably matched, of course), Lined in flannel backed acetate Kasha coat lining. Collared in a sultry soft cotton velveteen.
No expense was spared in the making of this luxurious coat. What Sunni wants, Sunni gets.
Price: priceless
I was thinking about making myself a coat this year. I mean, I think about making myself a lot of things every year (who doesn't) but you know, life happens. You get sucked into a vortex of so many things you want to make and you absurdly think that you can until you actually start making something and you realize that you don't have time to make all the things. It's a weird phenomenon and I often wonder whether the same thing happens to all of you. In my head I have a smashing line-up of fall outfits to crank out. In reality, I have an alarmingly small amount of time to crank them out. Goodness, at least this coat got done.

I did decide on getting this coat done. I was determined! I have a plentiful amount of fabric in my personal stash, but low and behold, I had been eyeing this particular plaid coating for what seemed like an eternity from my shop. It's so weird, by the way, to still want fabric even though I have a shop full of it. Anyway, when the new Named Fall patterns made their debut, I was all over this coat like white on rice. For the most part, it had everything I wanted.

For the most part. When we're talking coats and jackets, of which I'm a particular connoisseur if I do say so myself, there are so many elements that I am fairly particular about. Let's take the issue of pockets for a minute. You know, patch pockets are fine, but I had no intention of patch pocketing this coat. In coats, I'm particularly keen on pockets that are easy to sink my hands into and keep my hands warm. There is nothing like a welt pocket for this job in my very humble opinion. Coat pockets, for me, have got to be easy to put my hands in. I am so over awkward coat pockets! Are you with me here? Suffice it to say, I drafted my own welt pocket for this coat and if I do say so myself, its one perfectly placed welt pocket. Look at that sinking action! Yes!

I also drafted a new lining pattern for Yona. I took the time to actually trace off the coat's original lining pattern and then I made sure to check all of it against the outer shell pattern and such. Hmmm... There were a few things I didn't care for and a few things I thought might become problems so I just decided to draft my own lining and then that way, all would work. Which it did, beautifully. I also traded in the under collar for a bias cut, seam down the center version. Something you would find in the Tailoring book. I felt it would help with the bulk issue considering this fabric was a nice thick heavy wool coating. Other than these few quirks, the pattern for the outer shell was lovely. We got along great. I made but one fitting change and that was to add some width for my hips. Cut my fabric out and bam, I sewed a coat for myself.

Of course, I have to talk about the fabric. It's from my shop. This was a plaid wool coating that we'd had lying about for a bit. It's rather thick and heavy - perfect for a coat and the plaids were uneven (meaning they weren't perfect squares). Because the plaid is uneven or unbalanced, the plaid on the sleeve is only matched using the dominant plaid (and only in one direction) which is that grey stripey bit. People, I could do some serious workshopping on plaids. I love them. It's weird that the challenge is so satisfying to me. Oh my gosh! I'm a nerd! And by the way, if you're looking for this product in my shop, hold your horses a bit while we get all the wool coating options uploaded. We're working like mad men on it. Plus we'll get the Kasha coat linings up and ready for purchase in the online store too. We're almost there actually. Yay!

Well people, I'm seriously considering a sewalong for this coat. It's crazy because when I've done sewalongs in the past I feel crazy, but I think its time to do another one anyway. Who would be on board? Would anyone want to do a sewalong for this coat? Isn't it high time I did another sewalong? I believe it is.

And just in case you didn't catch my J. Peterman lingo, its one of the most fantastic catalogs to peruse if only for the rather cheeky descriptions of the merchandise. If only I had a gift for such malarky. If only.

Bring on the crisp fall weather!
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