July 2, 2014

Carpet Jacket: Fusibly Tailored

Thanks everyone for your lovely thoughts in my last post about this jacket and my need for a bit of a catharsis through the making of it. I'm plugging away and since several of you wanted behind the scenes, here I am giving you some. I opted to use my rub-off jacket pattern from this particular jacket. I just love that jacket pattern so much! So glad I finally made a pattern from this favorite jacket and forced myself to make it already (remember that green number?)! I haven't really changed anything this time around but I'm planning on adding an extra detail that I haven't tried before and that's piping around the lapels, down the front and around the collar. I'm also planning on welt pockets with a flap this time around too.


Originally I had picked a different jacket pattern to sew, but I was woefully unimpressed with the muslin, so here I am back in "tried and true" territory and with this lovely lovely fabric, I feel really good about that. I opted for fusible tailoring (this means I'm using a fusible interfacing) and I'm feeling pretty good about this decision too. Granted I could have gone the hand route with this fabric and all, but I just wasn't feeling like it.


You can see here that the jacket fronts have been interfaced and I've taped the roll lines and edges and gone ahead and done bound buttonholes. I opted to use the leftover scraps from these wool pants for the buttonhole lips and am planning on using it in a couple other places too. It's a lightweight navy wool broadcloth and is working out perfectly with what I have in mind for this jacket.


Also to give you an idea, since the jacket back piece of this jacket is shaped with a center back seam, this is how I do a "back stay" if you will with fusible interfacing. The important part here is that across the back and in the armscye, these areas are reinforced with interfacing. And then I also do a fusible interfacing in the hem area.


Hopefully this gives you some ideas for tailoring a jacket. Personally, I am a fan of fusible interfacings, but you definitely have to have the right interfacing for the job here. These professional grade interfacings really are wonderful and I've been terribly happy with using them in the past. They also make the jacket process a little faster, and sometimes I go for that and sometimes I don't. It does depend on the fabric choice too. All in all, this a nerd-tacular post, but I hope it gives you a little peek into the behind the scenes of me tailoring a jacket. I'll give you a few more peeks in the ensuing days ahead. Enjoy!
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14 comments

  1. That is going to be an amazing jacket, and I'm seriously pining for that fabric. Is there any way to get my greedy paws on it?

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  2. I'm intrigued... 'taping the roll lines' - why and how do you do this? I've never heard of this technique before, so I'd be grateful if you could shed some ligght on this! Thanks!

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  3. Love this "nerd-tacular" post. I'm hoping to venture into tailoring this year and have been considering going full-on traditional. But I know fusible is an option as well, so I'm interested to see the process in action. Thanks!

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  4. Love the jacket Sunni! BTW, just re-watched your zipper tutorial on Craftsy for a refresher. Readers, if you haven't enrolled in her FREE zipper class, it is a great one! Very worth your time!

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  5. Oh my! this is looking amazing! And that fabric is so pretty! I can't wait to see the result...

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  6. Wow! Sunni, so impressive, but not surprising!

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  7. Wonderful post and jacket! I'm also a big fan of your zipper class on Craftsy! I've watched it a number of times :)

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  8. Wow, this is going to be awesome! I haven't done any serious jacket tailoring with fusibles, so this is really informative. I'd like to try this out- love the idea of a fusible back stay!

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  9. I love nerd-tacular posts. Best kind! Your jacket looks great - can't wait for the finished project!!

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  10. This jacket will be fabulous! Nice to see the innards before you cover them over with lining. I can't wait to investigate your weft!

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  11. I am completely wild about your fabric. Can't wait to see the finished garment.

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  12. The jacket is going to look awesome. Really love the fabric choice. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

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  14. As usual I always learn something from whatever you happen to be working on. Thanks so much for the inspiration!

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