February 20, 2014

Behind the Seams: Pink Walrus Jacket

First things first. Today was my farewell to Project Sewn. Thank you everyone for your support and sweet comments about my makes and the competition in general. Thank you! I'm happy that I was able to participate and I was thrilled and incredibly honored to be listed among the other amazing ladies. They are still kickin it over there for the last week. Down to the final three! I'm sure this upcoming week will be a very hard pick. All my best!
Several of y'all wanted to see the innards of my Pink Walrus jacket from last week and I'm more than happy to oblige. Far be it from me to withhold more nerdy info on one of my makes. I may as well give you the entire run down.

The jacket was fusibly tailored - meaning I used a fusible interfacing throughout. I used two different interfacings in different areas because I've liked the way this works in other jackets that I've done. I used a weft interfacing for the main body of the jacket and this absolutely marvelous pro-sheer elegance interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply for the faced areas of the jacket. Whenever I fusibly tailor a jacket, I use this method of applying the interfacing to the jacket front/lapel area. It's pretty awesome. Also, I did tape the roll line for the lapel and I did that by machine. That, I should not have done. It just shows up too easily here, but might work better on something like a tweed or boucle where the stitches would really be hidden.

I attached the pockets using my patch pocket method. Someone asked about the flaps. Really they're just little rectangles that are stitched in place, folded down and stitched again. The Named instructions are very adequate for those. (BTW, this is the Kaisla jacket from Named, no longer available....)

The body of the jacket is made from this drapey rayon/silk blend and its was interesting, to say the least. I wanted a drapey jacket but hadn't thought that making one from something like this would be hard. It was hard. Not only did this fabric show a lot of flaws, but it shows all the inner workings pretty well too. Or it was trying to do that, but alas, I tamed this beast into submission! The final jacket looks really good and I'm surprised at just how well it coordinates into my existing wardrobe.
The lining in the body is a silk/acetate blend hollywood lining. From what I understand, hollywood lining merely refers to the jacquard look of it. Mine has little medallions woven into it and that purpley color looks so unnervingly awesome with the pink. I also have this same lining in a tan color, just begging for another jacket lining to be made from it. Additionally, I lined the sleeves in a Liberty of London silk charmeuse. This, as you might be aware, is one of my favorite tricks. I've seen this type of thing in high end RTW and I love being able to use a contrasting lining in the sleeve to give the inside of a jacket a little edge. It's fun! Additionally, it keeps the cost down on the silk front. I mean you only need a yard - if that - of silk for the sleeve and since your sleeve is the part of the jacket that will most likely touch the skin, it feels incredibly luxurious.
Someone asked about the vent in the back. All I did with the vent is not sew it in. This means that instead of a slit or vent in the center back seam, I sewed the whole thing shut. There was no other change to the pattern in the back other than that so the shape of the jacket back is built into the pattern. I do love vents on jackets, I just didn't want to mess with it because a vent with a lining is actually not the easiest thing to sew. I really didn't have time for fiddly stuff, so I skipped that and redrafted the lining to better meet the way I had envisioned sewing this jacket. Worked out just great.

I'm really loving this jacket style in my closet. It's a knock out color and looks easy and fabulous with jeans and a simple tee. I love the length too. It's a longer style jacket and that has its perks. Plus it has a little modern edge to it that I think is really nice. I love the no collar look and can even envision a cardigan style jacket made from it. Lots of possibilities here.

What did you think of this jacket in the Named line-up? Like my lining combo? It's a must try tip. Silk in the sleeve feels like a million dollars!

Have a lovely weekend everyone!


  1. I've enjoyed seeing your creations sooo much!! You kicked butt and so we'll all still be tuning in on your blog regularly to read and see all your future makes!!

  2. I loved all your outfits and I'm sorry to see you're out. I need to make a jacket now, yours are amazing, I love them all! :)

  3. Sunni, your pink jacket is the winner! Too cute!

  4. Sunni, you have the most gorgeous, delectable, delicious looking notions!!! A girl after my own heart. The bias tapes, Petersham ribbons, everything........makes me drool. I hope to share this information with everybody on Facebook. Best of luck on keeping on, forever keeping the gorgeous notions department. I have never seen the variety of colors anywhere in any notions dept. Love ya, Dee Dee

  5. Hi, Sunni.

    Your jackets are wonderful. I very much like the way you make the sleeves with a different lining. Do you cut the sleeves longer to be able to wear them this way?

    Best regards,
    Aud in Norway

  6. I love this jacket so much! It's such an amazing color- I'm sure you must get boatloads of compliments every time you wear it! Thanks for linking to that Threads article. I will be poring over that, for sure! I've only made one jacket that was really tailored, and I used a really drapey fabric, too, so I feel your pain. I'm not sure how successful I was overall with it, but it was a good learning experience. Man, all the inside stuff really wanted to show through the fashion fabric! Ugh!

    Hope you enjoy some downtime after the mania of Project Sewn! I so loved your outfits!

  7. this jacket seriously has me drooling! i love the drape-y fabric, though i can only imagine how challenging that ended up being! the contrast sleeve lining is such a great idea... i'll have to remember that! i really do plan to pick up this pattern for spring, an endorsement from you means a lot in my book!

  8. Awesome colour, impeccable finish - you'll be missed on PS.x

  9. Regarding Project Sewn, I don't want to say anything, which might appear to diminish the work of your contenders in any way, but I do not agree with the outcome. I suspect it may have had more to do with popularity than with merit. Moreover, if everyone voted just once for what she sincerely believed was the most meritorious entry, you would not have been eliminated. I am sorry to see you go, and impressed, but not surprised, by your good sportsmanship. Well done!

  10. I loved your creations and your styling on PS so much!!! Hopefully we will continue to see more of those in this blog...

  11. I've loved all of your designs from PS. So sad to see you go. The lace skirt was awesome.

  12. It's great to see the inner workings! I think my absolute favorite part, outside of the obviously great craftsmanship and how it looked on you, is that you said it coordinates with so many things in your wardrobe. Anyone who has a wardrobe that can slip in a hot pink blazer seamlessly (har har) is fantastic. But we already knew that about you! ;)

  13. Hi there, Just a question regarding the interfacing that you use. Why do you use different interfacings and why the type that you use? I read about it and it appears that it is extremely lightweight - don't you need something a little heavier in this area? What did you use on the back?

    Also,do you pull through your sleeve lining and use it as a cuff?

    Thanks so much -

  14. Thank you Dee Dee! We are hoping to expand the online shop even a little bit more. Yay! Thanks for your enthusiasm. Means a lot!

  15. Thank you Aud! The sleeves are cut just like they would be for a regular jacket, I just roll them up! I should probably have a photo of them rolled down, but I was lazy and didn't!

  16. Hi Deb!
    Whenever you pick interfacings you have to pick them according to the fabric weight, drape, thickness, etc and in this case I was working with a fabric that was drapey and somewhat thin. I wanted to maintain the drape while still giving a little bit of structure. The weft that I used was the hefty interfacing and I used that on the body of the jacket. The lighter weight interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply was a good contrast to the beefier weft and still maintained the amount of drape I wanted to keep in the overall jacket. I used the weft in the jacket fronts, around the armholes and the upper jacket back. I used the lighter weight interfacing in the jacket facings. Interfacing a jacket is a completely separate animal from any other garment and its something I might discuss more in the future. I'll consider it!

    The sleeve on the jacket is just rolled up. Its not a cuff, just double rolled for style and to show off my fun sleeve lining! Otherwise its just a regular jacket sleeve.

    Thanks so much for your questions!

  17. I love the simplicity of this jacket. Beautiful!

  18. That's a beautiful Walrus Sunni! And I love how you just 'casually' provide us with tons of tips. I have never made a jacket because it seems so laborious, but I did add the Kasia pattern to my wishlist so I'm gonna do it some day!

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