February 6, 2014

Behind the Seams | Fashion Icon Challenge

Today, I thought I would answer a few questions I received about my green jacket that I made for Project Sewn. But first. Wow! Hasn't this week been ahhh. mazing? I have to say I think everyone outdid themselves. It's been really really fantastic. So much variety and it was exciting. Forget mind being blown, my brain was blown. Ladies, I bow (and wink) to your creativity and inspiration. Hey now, don't forget - you can still vote for your favorite until tonight! If you haven't already, be sure to hop on over and snag your favorite make.

OK, this green with envy jacket. Someone asked about rub-off's. What's that? A rub-off is creating a pattern from an existing piece of clothing. This usually involves not harming the original garment. You guys, I'm BIG into doing this. I do it alot because my original garment already fits me the way I want it too and boom, you've made a pattern and then you can make dozens of your favorite garment with different twists, details and such. It's killer diller. You can find more information on doing this sort of thing from the following resources:
  • Patternmaking for a perfect fit by Steffani Lincecum - this little underated and not talked about enough book walks you through how to do this. Love it.

  • Steffani also has a Craftsy class on this very subject. Also a worthy investment because you can watch someone doing it.

  • Kenneth King's Jeanius class on Craftsy and also this class on Pattern Review are both about his approach to doing this. You'll find that there are several methods for creating a rub-off and all are worth knowing about. They come in handy at different times.
Hopefully this gives you some ideas for how to do this. It's very addictive and well worth knowing how to do.

Did I match the plaids on the texturized wool? Funny you should ask because yes, I did. These types of details are important to me, especially now that I understand how it works on a jacket. It's worth the effort to me here and I also did want to see if it really made that big of a difference in a plaid that was more subtle and textural than anything else. Probably not all that noticeable, but it's still a nice touch.

Was the waist cincher apart of the original garment? Yes, it was. You guys, this is such an ingenious way to make a boxy jacket look fitted. I love this on my original jacket (scroll down for that). I definitely see more waist cinchers on my jackets in the future. Plus they are cute. There's a myriad of ways that you could do this detail and each time have it look different.

The jacket has three main body pieces. This made it kind of cinchy to match the plaids. The pieces are a jacket front, jacket side and jacket back. The side combines both princess seams from the front and back into one.

And now, here's the original jacket. By the way, this thing is pretty old. From my college days when I worked in an expensive clothing store. It's held up well. Except for the lining which I took apart and redid this year. Now it has my favorite lining tricks, including silk sleeves and rayon bemberg lining in the body. Still wearable for years to come.

Hope you enjoyed!
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