March 5, 2013

Obsession

Finished! My obsession jacket - a rub-off of my mom's vintage 70's jacket, with fitting alterations - is done. I can't actually believe that I typed those words. Hip Hip Hooray!


Alright, so in my last small post about this jacket, I alluded to the fact that this project was on a deadline. I was contacted by organiccottonplus.com a little over a month ago and asked if I wanted free fabric in return for a fair and honest review of their product (and they wanted a review within a month, hence the deadline). Count me in, hello! Who doesn't want free fabric? After looking at their offerings, I decided on probably the most boring piece imaginable. A simple navy blue cotton sateen. It wasn't for lack of their offerings, but I had my heart set on either another pair of pants or a jacket and since the jacket won out in my head, I went with navy blue, though admittedly the pink and green were seriously calling my name. But as someone who doesn't have very many jackets, I thought I should go conservative and easy to wear and pair since I tend to make fabric purchases based on the eye candy quality instead of actual reality quality. Yup, I've got a mountain of fabric with frosting written all over it.


So I asked for enough fabric (and a little extra just in case) for this jacket and set to work getting the pattern ready for when the fabric arrived. Admittedly when the fabric did arrive (very quick shipping by the way) I found that this cotton sateen was a little on the thin side - at least that's what I thought at the time. I forged on. I wanted this jacket specifically for spring and early summer and after I started getting the jacket put together, I found that the fabric did just fine and really is the perfect weight for my spring time fancy. The key thing to keep in mind I think, with jackets and coats is the layering factor. You sometimes have several layers in different areas, not to mention interfacing, shoulder pads, sleeve heads and lining. So when all was said and done, this is seriously, the perfect jacket for spring and early summer. Not too lightweight and not too heavyweight.


The fabric itself is quite soft, something I've actually noticed about organic fabrics in general. It takes shaping quite well - though I didn't go to the trouble of hand tailoring this jacket, just fusibles which I think fares better anyway on fabric with a smooth face and makes for better collar popping and I'm nothing if not a notable collar popper. It also fuses wonderfully to fusible interfacing (I used this from Fashion Sewing Supply) which is a problem I've been encountering with a lot of fusible interfacing lately, even the good stuff. This fabric is also made with sustainability in mind. This friends, is becoming increasingly more important to me these days. Have to say, I give this fabric my full endorsement! Seriously good stuff here. Additionally, I want to point out that they have not only cotton sateen (is it weird to anyone else how hard this is becoming to find?) but cotton twills and 100% cotton batiste - this is the gold mine right here. Batiste!!!! It's hard enough to find the cotton/poly crap these days, but actual 100% cotton batiste is like, next to impossible to get your hands on. Ask me how I know! They've also got some pretty great cotton prints and knits - KNITS! Wait, there's more. These fabrics are quite reasonably priced for being organic too. Just sayin, this is kind of a little goldmine of an online fabric shop for cottons. Go ahead, treat yourself to a little organic goodness today.


Let's see, what else. Let me give you a few more details on the jacket now. I lined the body in rayon bemberg and then lined the sleeve in a contrasting silk charmeuse - y'all know this is a favorite trick of mine. Adds a touch of luxury and its seriously luxurious to have silk charmeuse rubbing my arms. Feels like I finally hit nirvana or something - Oh! warm chill just thinking about it!

Picked out the buttons myself - I'm a terrible button picker and its something I always dread. I've made really bad button choices before, but these, these are just right for me. I'm pretty happy with the fit overall and the rub-off worked pretty well. I need to do little work on the sleeve - I think its off grain for one and I need to add just a touch of ease to the sleeve cap because its pulling a little strangely at the underarm.


A bit off the beaten path but I'm teaching private lessons to a lady who wants to make a tailored jacket and so I told her it might be fun if we did two jackets, one traditionally hand tailored and the other fusibly tailored. I'll be making my own jackets with her and I thought you all might find it interesting to watch the progress and see how it works. You guys up for some tailoring posts? Like from the very beginning? Like the whys and wheres and whats and seeing how the two methods differ side by side? There are many great tailoring posts from other bloggers out there, but it might be fun to see these two methods side by side and why you might pick one over the other for a particular project.

By the way, I finished this jacket last week and have been wearing it like everyday since. Its sooooooooooo weird to me how easy it is to just throw this thing on and look great. A+ for jackets. Many more are going to be popping up around here. Just sayin.

Peace out friends - jacket envy, anyone?
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59 comments

  1. I am seriously envying this jacket! I love the fit of those back belts, and it is hard to find on a RTW jacket. You may see/feel things that you don't like, but it looks perfect to me. Yes, I would love some tailoring posts. I like the way you teach. Also, I want those shoes and those earrings. It appears you bring out extreme coveting in me! Congratulations on a great rub off project. I am duly impressed.

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  2. Stunningly, stunningly, stunningly gorgeous! You and the jacket and the photoshoot. Love every single thing about this. You did that fabric company proud - they should be paying you extra. Yes, I would love blog posts about tailoring and the difference between the two methods, as I've always been curious quite how much difference it makes. Sunni, you should be way proud of yourself. Jacket Envy To Infinity And Beyond.

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  3. Tailoring: yes yes yes yes yes!!! My fear of Doing It Wrong is seriously holding up my grand tailoring plans for life.

    Also, nice jacket!

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  4. Gail Ann ThompsonMarch 5, 2013 at 11:28 PM

    More and More, I find myself concerned with the origin of my fabric. I'm happy to find this option. I will be ordering some batiste as I've begun to make baby clothes for my grand nieces and grand nephews.

    Your jacket is Brilliant!! Congratulations.

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  5. Wow!! This jacket is totally gorgeous, I really like the style. Great work!! "Icing" jacket can be very nice, but I think navy (or cake) is so much more versatile. I would really enjoy some post about making jacket and tailoring. I don't think I can tackle making a jacket right now, I need to get more experience first. But it is on my "to do" list when I get more confident.

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  6. wow - i love this! the farbic looks gorgeous (as does your new-ish hair!). would be really interesting in the tailoring posts. i tend to think that the traditional methods are "best" and the proper way to do it, but they invented fusibles to make our lives easier, didn't they? so would be great to know if there is any difference!

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  7. Oh this is such a fabulous jacket! Which also reminds me that I don't have the perfect spring/summer jacket. Tailoring posts please and thank you so much!
    PS: looove the hair!

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  8. its stunning. i made a vintage knock off jacket last year and its still probably my favorite piece to date. so versatile.

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  9. YES! I'd love to see more posts about tailoring! I know there are a lot of tailoring posts in the logosphere but it would be great to see it in an organized manner.
    I LOVE the jacket, I'd love to see more detailed pictures of it, way to go!!

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  10. Um YES please to the tailoring side-by-side idea!! That would be amazing to follow. I'm working on my first jacket now (sporty and not particularly tailored), and am currently soaking up all the resources I can on tailoring as even though I haven't even gotten to the real jacket yet (finishing up some fit tweaks on the muslin), I already feel there will need to be more jackets in my future...

    Now onto that awesome rub-off jacket!! That is a total winner. I love the color and the look, seems like you could dress it up or down, and totally goes with your everyday wardrobe plan! Amazing. And could you look any cuter with those bright earrings and fab hair and that background?? :)

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  11. Serious jacket envy! I have some fabric earmarked for a jacket like this, but am hesitant to start or, honestly, even know where to start :) So I am definitely game for tailoring posts! Great job!

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  12. Please PLEASE compare the tailoring techniques side by side! That would seriously be the BEST thing ever!! I want to make a beautifully tailored blazer but am completely overwhelmed. So yes yes yes definitely more jacket pasts with all the juicy details!!!

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  13. Absolute Perfection!! Yes! The perfect spring jacket!! I always feel a bit weird when I make those sort of fabric choices - choosing a boring staple over the fun stuff - but I'm always happy in the end because those are the pieces that get the most wear. Boring is not really boring, ya know? Also I was actually thinking of your blog the other day when I was shopping for buttons, thinking how Sunni always makes really great button choices!! Haha!
    Anyway, I always love reading about tailoring - and I actually think some fusible tailoring posts would come in really handy, since the only way I've ever done it is the hardcore way and, well, who has time for that?

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  14. Beautiful Jacket. You did you're mom's one justice! Its a great springtime outfit! x

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  15. Gorgeous jacket, the style looks fantastic on you.

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  16. Looks great! :)

    You guys up for some tailoring posts? Like from the very beginning?

    Yes!!!

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  17. Yes to the tailoring posts progress! I love seeing step by step photos, and this definitely wouldn't be an exception!

    I love how the coat looks so easy easy to wear while still being tailored! The color looks amazing with your hair. Brava!

    Also, I didn't realize that there is organic lace. How awesome is that! And P.S., that is some of the nicest colored graffiti I have ever seen. Is that wall art disguised as graffiti?

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  18. It turned out amazing. Congrats on finishing. I wouldn't ever take it off.

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  19. Jacket envy aplenty here! Skill & confidence envy, too. The jacket looks fantastic, though. & one of these days, I'm going to get there too. Meanwhile, I'll admire yours.

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  20. Great job on the jacket. Would love some tailoring posts.

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  21. WOW! stunning! you, the haircut, the photo shoot and ...the jacket!! serious envy! tailored jackets are my BIG weakness, i buy them in all the colors (from a very pricey retailer) and there's always, a little something i would like to tweak about them. I would love a series on tailoring and especially on comparing them side by side. Thank you for offering that. And i have serious envy this morning, for the jacket and for the lady who is taking classes from you :)

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  22. total jacket envy! Beautiful job Sunni. That navy cotton sateen looks gorgeous with your red hair. And I would love to see the differing tailoring methods side by side. I want to make a jacket, but I don't know what I'm doing and all the hand pad stitching kinda freaks me out! I'd love to see the alternatives and know the whys.

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  23. Beautiful jacket! I've wanted to sew a jacket but haven't because I'm not sure about the tailoring. I would love some posts about the differences between hand tailored and fusibily tailored jackets. Thanks!

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  24. Yes, a side-by-side comparison from the very beginning would be great! Love the jacket. It looks fabulous.

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  25. Isn't their cotton sateen amazing?! I just made a dress out of one of their prints, but I'm definitely going to have to order a solid color to try out. That navy is THE perfect shade of navy blue. The jacket turned out perfectly and I think your button choice was spot on too. I haven't made a jacket yet, but I definitely need to attempt one. It would be so nice to have the perfect "goes with everything" jacket! Nicely done, Sunni!

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  26. Your jacket is just perfect! You chose the best color, so versatile and classic. And it goes with your hair nicely :) Your side-by-side tailoring idea would be so helpful! I have my first real jacket planned for the near future, and have been debating interfacings and such.

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  27. God, yes I have jacket envy! And yes please, I'd love the tailoring posts!

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  28. When I first saw the jacket I immediately wanted it! It is absolutely stunning. I would love to see the tailoring post from the very beginning!

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  29. Michelle WarkentinMarch 6, 2013 at 5:23 AM

    I love your jacket! I have fabric waiting to be turned into a jacket, but I have never made one and I can't find the right pattern. Please, please share your tailoring techniques!

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  30. Lovely! Lovely! Your jacket is awesome. And yes with the tailoring posts. Please!

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  31. Brilliant jacket. Well done! I agree, you can't beat a jacket or dressy vest for instant style. Yes, I would definitely be interested in your proposed jacket posts.

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  32. Total jacket envy...this is seriously amazing. I think I'd never take it off. Bravo!

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  33. Posts about jacket construction couldn't be more perfectly timed. I have three patterns that have languished in my stash for over a year (possibly over 2 years), that I think I'm ready to conquer. I know NOTHING about traditional tailoring techniques and was just going to follow the instructions, but I'm hoping your future posts will give me some more info to let me decide if I want to do a little tailoring.
    Thanks!

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  34. Wow, beautiful jacket! So well constructed and the fabric you used makes it look so soft and approachable. Well done!

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  35. Oh yes, please! I'm hoping to make a jacket soon - I'd love to get your take on both kinds of tailoring!

    Your jacket turned out so well, and it's so YOU. Now off to check out your fabric links!

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  36. That looks great!! Serious jacket envy.. Jackets look so time consuming, I don't think I'll start one until my holidays haha

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  37. I would love to read post about your jacket tailoring. I have learnt so much from your blog already and I would love to make a beautiful fitting jacket. I wish I lived near you and I would take part in your class in person. I also have a very broad back that gives me no end of fitting problems.

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  38. Major jacket envy! :) Beautiful work, as usual.

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  39. Love, love, love this jacket! I also think a green jacket would be pretty damn fabulous. And yes, I would REALLY appreciate some jacket posts! I'm planning on making my own soon, so that would be awesome.

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  40. What an amazing jacket. Bravo Sunni! And, your pixie cut is looking cute as ever. Do you still love it? And, please on the tailoring. I got a good dose of the two methods from Gertie's online class, but I never finished my jacket due to other frustrations. You are quite the teacher, so I'd love your take on the process.

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  41. You've nailed it! It's a small thing, but the detailing on the pockets are the stand out element of this jacket.

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  42. This is a beautiful jacket Sunni, congratulations! I would love to see some tailoring posts, I may or may not have even purchased some fabric for it today :) So I am pretty excited to get going!

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  43. I've got a big slice of jacket envy. You navy jacket is stunning in it's simplicity. I've been looking at all my jacket fabrics and patterns today trying to work out which one to make. I've never made a jacket before, so I look forward to your tailoring posts, or any other jacket info you can send our way...

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  44. Love it! This is the kind of jacket that can be worn anywhere and you're always well dressed. That's huge in my book. I'm really looking forward to more tailoring, especially working with fusibles.

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  45. Love this, very inspiring as always. Can't wait till I graduate to jackets.

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  46. Wow! Sunni, that just is incredible. And great colour choice too. Not to mention, great choice of photo shoot background. The orange in the graffiti compliment the jacket! Haha. Anywho, I'd love to see the tailoring videos, I'm always up for learning something new.

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  47. Gorgeous pictures and gorgeous jacket....totally envious! I have a jacket on my to-do list but I don't think I will make it before the summer...I'd love to read tailoring posts!

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  48. OH MY GOODNESS. This is perfection! I LOVE THIS JACKET AND WANT IT!

    Also, you look amazing in it, and the styling is just perfect.

    Argh! Girl crush!

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  49. oh yes, yes, yes please to jacket tailoring posts!

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  50. I love your jacket! I would like to tackle something more tailored like you just did, so I am all for the upcoming tailoring posts.

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  51. Well Sunni, are you feeling like a rock star now? You sure the hell should be- you look awesome= and yes, I have jacket envy!!! :)

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  52. I'm in - love to make a cute jacket! Yours is beautiful!

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  53. Love the jacket, Sunni!! Geat job. And yes, for tailoring, can't ever learn enough. I have fabric in my stash for summer jackets and ready to go1

    At the same time, I need to work on stash busting, my closet is full. Can you recommend a good book on sewing on knits? I have not found anything on this blog about that.

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  54. Your new jacket is amazing! How satisfying to have made this from your mom's jacket. A tailoring comparison series would be very fascinating.

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  55. This is too, too cute! What a perfect little jacket! And thanks for mentioning organiccottonplus-- it's great to know about a place to find nice organic fabric!

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  56. [...] will give you more direction on what tailoring method you use. For example, pad stitching on my Obsession Jacket – a cotton sateen – would have been disastrous! I am not an expert tailor and [...]

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  57. I have major jacket envy. You are so talented! I can't believe it's a rub off! Looking forward to the tailoring posts.

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  58. This is SO lovely! The shape is just so cute and flattering. It has a very classic style and the fabric looks yummy. I've been wanting to make a jacket like this for a while, so I have jacket envy, for sure. I've got a vintage jacket and this makes me want to take a stab at making a knock off from it.

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