March 5, 2013


Finished! My obsession jacket - a rub-off of my mom's vintage 70's jacket, with fitting alterations - is done. I can't actually believe that I typed those words. Hip Hip Hooray!

Alright, so in my last small post about this jacket, I alluded to the fact that this project was on a deadline. I was contacted by a little over a month ago and asked if I wanted free fabric in return for a fair and honest review of their product (and they wanted a review within a month, hence the deadline). Count me in, hello! Who doesn't want free fabric? After looking at their offerings, I decided on probably the most boring piece imaginable. A simple navy blue cotton sateen. It wasn't for lack of their offerings, but I had my heart set on either another pair of pants or a jacket and since the jacket won out in my head, I went with navy blue, though admittedly the pink and green were seriously calling my name. But as someone who doesn't have very many jackets, I thought I should go conservative and easy to wear and pair since I tend to make fabric purchases based on the eye candy quality instead of actual reality quality. Yup, I've got a mountain of fabric with frosting written all over it.

So I asked for enough fabric (and a little extra just in case) for this jacket and set to work getting the pattern ready for when the fabric arrived. Admittedly when the fabric did arrive (very quick shipping by the way) I found that this cotton sateen was a little on the thin side - at least that's what I thought at the time. I forged on. I wanted this jacket specifically for spring and early summer and after I started getting the jacket put together, I found that the fabric did just fine and really is the perfect weight for my spring time fancy. The key thing to keep in mind I think, with jackets and coats is the layering factor. You sometimes have several layers in different areas, not to mention interfacing, shoulder pads, sleeve heads and lining. So when all was said and done, this is seriously, the perfect jacket for spring and early summer. Not too lightweight and not too heavyweight.

The fabric itself is quite soft, something I've actually noticed about organic fabrics in general. It takes shaping quite well - though I didn't go to the trouble of hand tailoring this jacket, just fusibles which I think fares better anyway on fabric with a smooth face and makes for better collar popping and I'm nothing if not a notable collar popper. It also fuses wonderfully to fusible interfacing (I used this from Fashion Sewing Supply) which is a problem I've been encountering with a lot of fusible interfacing lately, even the good stuff. This fabric is also made with sustainability in mind. This friends, is becoming increasingly more important to me these days. Have to say, I give this fabric my full endorsement! Seriously good stuff here. Additionally, I want to point out that they have not only cotton sateen (is it weird to anyone else how hard this is becoming to find?) but cotton twills and 100% cotton batiste - this is the gold mine right here. Batiste!!!! It's hard enough to find the cotton/poly crap these days, but actual 100% cotton batiste is like, next to impossible to get your hands on. Ask me how I know! They've also got some pretty great cotton prints and knits - KNITS! Wait, there's more. These fabrics are quite reasonably priced for being organic too. Just sayin, this is kind of a little goldmine of an online fabric shop for cottons. Go ahead, treat yourself to a little organic goodness today.

Let's see, what else. Let me give you a few more details on the jacket now. I lined the body in rayon bemberg and then lined the sleeve in a contrasting silk charmeuse - y'all know this is a favorite trick of mine. Adds a touch of luxury and its seriously luxurious to have silk charmeuse rubbing my arms. Feels like I finally hit nirvana or something - Oh! warm chill just thinking about it!

Picked out the buttons myself - I'm a terrible button picker and its something I always dread. I've made really bad button choices before, but these, these are just right for me. I'm pretty happy with the fit overall and the rub-off worked pretty well. I need to do little work on the sleeve - I think its off grain for one and I need to add just a touch of ease to the sleeve cap because its pulling a little strangely at the underarm.

A bit off the beaten path but I'm teaching private lessons to a lady who wants to make a tailored jacket and so I told her it might be fun if we did two jackets, one traditionally hand tailored and the other fusibly tailored. I'll be making my own jackets with her and I thought you all might find it interesting to watch the progress and see how it works. You guys up for some tailoring posts? Like from the very beginning? Like the whys and wheres and whats and seeing how the two methods differ side by side? There are many great tailoring posts from other bloggers out there, but it might be fun to see these two methods side by side and why you might pick one over the other for a particular project.

By the way, I finished this jacket last week and have been wearing it like everyday since. Its sooooooooooo weird to me how easy it is to just throw this thing on and look great. A+ for jackets. Many more are going to be popping up around here. Just sayin.

Peace out friends - jacket envy, anyone?
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