Winter Coat for My Man: the Home Stretch

I’m sure that you can already sense that in the next photo session of this coat, Mr. S will be wearing it. We are that close. What’s more, I haven’t started a new project – well, alright, I’ll level with you. I did do the muslin for the pants for this pattern, but have yet to do anything else for them, including making the alterations to the pattern itself. Yes. I kept my word and did not start another thing. I’ve definitely been dreaming about new things, so I got a notebook to write them down in. Are you proud of me, or what? It has been really really hard, but crazy enough, my sewing room has stayed tidier and more organized though it still did get pretty messy whilst sewing the coat – but only with coat stuff. Totally normal as sewing is messy, right?

Today I thought I would explain a few things about the coat and give you inside shots of well, the inside. I die. It’s gorgeous. First things first. The toggles. were. a. nightmare. to. attach. Grrrrhhhh! Of course I did it after putting the entire coat shell together, so yeah, the stitching is not perfect, but you know what, I let it go. My perfectionist didn’t have it in her, plus I did just read a very good quote on perfectionism: “Perfectionists pave the road to hell working with grains of sand.” So, there’s that, of course. In addition, I would like to add something about my mister and his predilection to give me a run for my money. After we had exhaustively discussed the fabric, lining, blah blah blah and after I had constructed the front and back bodice pieces of the coat shell, it was at this time that he told me to just, “add some color to the outside of this thing, will ya?” Do I even need to say anything else? Sigh…..so then I added the flashes of yellow in the buttonholes, to which he added, “I like it, but I wanted purple.” I told Leena, a lady I work with about this and of course she had a piece of purple ultrasuede (she has everything you could ever want!!!!). Well, Mr. S says its dark violet, but he likes it. This is why the toggle patches are purple or violet or I mean, dark violet. Pimp, am I right?

We may now proceed to the inside of which I controlled everything and learned my lesson on asking for opinions from a certain someone…. Ahem. Are you ready for this? I found out after I had constructed the outer shell, that the wool was a bit on the thinner wool coating side so I interlined the lining. If you don’t know, interlining is combining layers of fabric so that they act as one, the exact same thing as underlining, but in the case of interlining, this is done soley to provide warmth to the garment. Underlining is done to provide the garment with more structure, body or opacity. I combined three layers here – lining, lambswool and flannel. At first it was just going to be flannel, but then the flannel I purchased was cheap and thin and so I added the lambswool in between the lining and flannel and now its like wearing magma. Yup. Mr. S said he was banking on this thing being warm and warm it will be. So there you have the lining.

From there, let’s have a chat about the lining I used. I’ve seen this type of thing in RTW and I’ve been dying to copy it – using a contrasting lining in the sleeve. For the body I used a lovely lovely and heavy rayon crepe back satin that I found whilst lurking over at Fashion Fabrics Club several months ago. It’s a perfect weight for a coat and such a great fiber content and it was seriously so amazingly easy to work with and use. LOVE this fabric! For the sleeve, I used a grey silk charmeuse from Yellow Bird Fabrics. Doesn’t it look great? It’s totally lush to wear too. I tried it on which is how I know. I really really love this idea because, as you might have guessed, this really cuts down on the cost of the lining of the coat (I mean instead of lining the whole thing in silk charmeuse, you know), yet still adds luxury and an element of style to an otherwise boring black lining. The rayon was only like $5 a yard and then of course, there’s the silk charmeuse, but you really only need the length of a sleeve – like 3/4 – 1 yard and Voila! Instant stylish lining. Think of using leftover silk pieces! Pretty spiffy, eh? In case you were interested, this is my first time bagging a lining on a coat/jacket and I used Jen’s tutorial which is pretty much brilliant. She’s such a genius! Love! I need to edit the sleeves a little bit here, but other than that, the lining is A, OK.

Mr. S insisted on inner pockets and so the only thing to be done was welts. Totally took some of that flannel from the interlining for the welts and then created the welt pocket. The japanese book also supplied the pattern for these and they came out just great though I totally made up the directions as I went along. Not too shabby, right?

What else can I tell you? The flap part around the chin came with the pattern. I’m not exactly sure what to call it, but it keeps the hood up, I guess and all in all, it actually looks kind of cool, right? Well, I think it looks cool. All in all, that pretty much wraps up the coat. I’ll share more about how I feel about the whole thing in my next post. What do you think?

My hands hurt, btw, because there was still a lot of hand sewing even though I did a huge chunk of it all by machine.
Off to find the IBprofen,
Sunni

  • Donna - Wow, gorgeous!ReplyCancel

  • paisleyapron - What an accomplishment! Congratulations. A coat like that will last for years. I love the peeks of purple.ReplyCancel

  • robin - Sunni, it is a masterpiece! I LOVE the yellow buttonholes and the dark violet patches for the toggles. Over the top – amazing! And you get to see it on him all the time, won’t that be nice?
    well done!!
    robin recently posted..Silky Dress Project LaunchReplyCancel

  • LM - WOW!! it is Gorgeous!! Every bit of it…you are so talented! Now you are ready to make one for yourself ;)
    BTW did you finish that wrap coat you mentioned last year? I was drooling over that fabric and pattern.
    Anyhow, your mister is a very lucky guy :) can’t wait to see it on!ReplyCancel

  • Liza jane - Oh wow, it looks absolutely fabulous! Love the little bit of color :) ReplyCancel

  • Amanda - You’re a catch! He’s one lucky guy. All the colorful details are great. This coat totally looks like the sort of thing that if I saw it in a store I would be nervous to check it out for fear of the price tag.ReplyCancel

  • Yana - Your coat looks amazing! Such a great job! One day I will aspire to make something as complicated :) and well done on not starting a new project, you are mastering self-control! :) ReplyCancel

  • Catherine Daze - It’s amazing! I really like the purple patches on the toggles.ReplyCancel

  • Susan - Your jacket is amazing. Congratulations! I can only dream of ever sewing something so beautiful.
    You’ve done a great job.ReplyCancel

  • theperfectnose - Once again I’m late to the party and everything has already been said XD Love the fabric pattern combo (makes it nothing like a 90s duffle coat-although I’ve loved them back then) and the little extra touches do add subtle colour to the outside. I’ve used that ‘different sleeve lining’ trick (due to running out of lining fabric XD) but it pisses me off to see it in $300+ RTW coats (at that price methinks they should use hammered gold for the lining-including the sleeves).
    theperfectnose recently posted..December Giveaway: Cut-up CoutureReplyCancel

  • Mimi - That is one pretty spectacular coat!
    Mimi recently posted..On Fabric Temptation…ReplyCancel

  • Pauline - Sunni, this is a masterpiece! It is a spectacular coat and your man should be so thankful. I don’t think I would be patient enough to spend so many hours on something that I would not wear myself, how selfish of me (but I’ll be happy enough to sew some shirts for my man). Congratulation on this amazing coat! The colours are gorgeous.ReplyCancel

  • Ginger - Holy guacamole! This is so fabulous!
    Ginger recently posted..Ginger Made: Rie DressReplyCancel

  • Judi - A fabulous job, Sunni! I’d love to see it up close and personal someday. I bet Mr S will find it handy/warm when the snow flies soon!ReplyCancel

  • Christianne Bower - I have been following you sewing the coat..what a complex project ! I am just learning how to line a skirt ! I am so impressed with the attention to detail..and when you describe how it went together step by step it inspires me to believe I could make something as intricate one day. thank you for the inspiration and humor about your mistakes !ReplyCancel

  • Winter Coat for My Man: Finish Line » A Fashionable Stitch - [...] As a round-up, I decided that it would be helpful if I included all the posts that I’ve written on a project in the final project’s post. So here’s a handy dandy reference to all the posts on this coat, in order of course: ● New Project: Winter Coat for My Man ● Winter Coat for My Man: the Muslins ● Winter Coat for My Man: Progress ● Winter Coat for My Man: the Home Stretch [...]ReplyCancel

  • Lora - Sunni:

    I picked up a useful storage tip from one of Nancy Zieman’s books. She said to store pattern, notions, and fabric in a large zip-lock bag with a circular hole cut at the top. Put a hanger through the whole. If you face the pattern picture outwards, it also acts as a label for your project. It works pretty well if a person has enough closet space to hang it.

    LoraReplyCancel