New Project: Winter Coat for My Man

In addition to a few other projects for myself, my mister has been pleading for a new coat so I’ve decided to break down and make him one. Actually he’s been pleading for two new coats – a winter coat and a trench – but one thing at a time, right? I rarely sew for Shawn (Mr. S) and its kind of sad really. I need to be better about incorporating his needs into my sartorial sewing world. We wouldn’t be able to afford the type of coat I’ll make, and really I love the prospect of delving into a bit of menswear. I thought it would be fun to take a journey together with you, especially as I’m working on the toggle coat version from the japanese pattern book. If you haven’t seen it, and don’t know what a japanese pattern book is, I suggest having a gander in this Etsy shop (I always buy japanese books from her and she’s so nice and her CS is excellent!). Japanese pattern books contain several different patterns in one book (all the instructions are usually in japanese) and this one in particular has some really beautiful men’s outerwear. I actually have a few different japanese pattern books, but this is the first time I’ve actually used one.

Duane from Mainely Dad has been a great resource as I’ve been working through the beginning stages of this project. Duane has made all of the coats from this japanese book – here’s his toggle version! And they are all insanely beautiful! I can actually credit Duane with giving my mister the idea that I could actually sew up a coat for him too (thanks Duane – no sarcasm here, truly). I actually did start tracing off a trench coat earlier this year for my man, but that abruptly ended when, I found that in addition to tracing off the damn lovely pattern, I had to add seam allowances too! You guys & gals, I can be hardcore, but that’s really asking way to much of me. This is what sparked the idea and need for Double Tracing Wheels, different pattern papers and sheets of tracing paper. If you ever do anything like this, all I can say is, you really need to get yourself hooked up here because those tracing wheels and sheets of tracing paper are nothing less than magical! They shaved hours (I would say about 4 hours, seriously) off the tracing process alone.

So if you were wondering, to trace off the pattern, I put down some dotted pattern paper first (I could have used the medical exam paper too, no biggie, whatevs) then I put the tracing paper sheet – blue – face down on top of that and put the pattern sheet on top of that. Put down a couple of pattern weights here and there and then used that handy dandy tracing wheel, to not only trace the pattern, but add the seam allowance in one whack. I added a 1/2″ seam allowance – by the way, these tracing wheels do not do 1/8″ increments, which is really neither here nor there, but you know. For the hem allowances I added either a 1 1/2″ – sleeve – or 2″ – body – hem allowance to the bottoms.

The perfect fabric came into my possession at the American Sewing Expo too. It’s that Double Cloth Wool Coating from Wool House. When I presented it to my mister, and draped it over him to get a sense of how the color would work for him, he claimed that he wanted a cape instead of a coat. He told me to just serge the edges and put some sort of closure around the neck. By the way, he’s so full of shit that his eyes are brown (truly they are). I’m planning to add/draft a lining for the coat, in addition to adding a zipper placket down the front. I’ll show you both when I get to that point. The lining for the body is going to be a black rayon satin and the lining for the sleeve and hood will be grey silk charmeuse that I’m thinking I’ll quilt to lambswool for added warmth. The coating is actually pretty heavy, so I don’t know that I need to lambswool the whole thing, plus Mr. S keeps his thermostat pretty high temped as it is.

So there ya go. I’m actually sewing for another human being besides myself. See? I can be generous…. Ever sewn for your man, woman or significant other? Tell me, any pointers? Any tizzy fitting fits I should be aware of? If nothing else, you at least have to tell me that my plans for the coat are pretty amazing, right? I mean, silk charmeuse in the sleeve – I must really be in love! All I can say is, it’d better be cold this winter!

Baby, it’s gonna be cold outside,

  • Holly - I have the mens coat book and shirt book from the same seller on etsy and she is just the sweetest thing ever. Mt man has also been begging me to make him a winter coat so I knew this book was a must when I saw it on Mainely Dad months ago. I haven’t started yet but was planning on it soon so I can’t wait to follow your progress with it! The sewing world needs more modern mens patterns too :) ReplyCancel

  • Leah - Making Gerties Butterick coat for myself. For my husband, I have made many hawaiian shirts courtesy of the Islander Hawaiian shirt pattern. Great pattern, great instructions! Shirt comes out amazing every time. I’ve made it in all kinds of fun prints.ReplyCancel

  • Victoria - How exciting! Sewing for your man. I look forward to following your progress and can’t wait to see the finished product!!!ReplyCancel

  • Rebecca - I bought a suit pattern to make one for my boyfriend for christmas last year. There were three weddings this past summer and I thought that he would look great in a fitted suit. Well, I never got around to making it and ended up buying him a suit jacket that he picked out. I would love to make it for him, but know that it would be a lot of work and not sure if it would be worth all of the effort. Maybe just a jacket would have been sufficient.ReplyCancel

  • Elle Johns - Wow no I’ve never sewn for anyone-including myself!!! 

I sure wish I could-so impressive!

    Elle xoxo 
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  • Norma Fay - This is quite the project. I’m nowhere near this talented. I can shop well, however. I just got a great new Puffer Jacket for myself, and one for my husband. They look great and they are so warm. Best of all, Burlington Coat Factory had them for about $75 less than they would have cost in any other store.ReplyCancel

  • Winter Coat for My Man – the Muslins - [...] a project like this that’s going to take quite some time to finish, I think its always a good idea to [...]ReplyCancel

  • gratitude - [...] stuff all the while helping keep me, my small business and my spirits afloat. He totally deserves a coat! A huge chunk of gratitude and my heart go out to him this year – gosh I love him so! Gush, [...]ReplyCancel

  • Winter Coat for My Man: Progress - [...] thought I would give you all a sneaky peak of what’s happening with the coat these days. It’s pretty crazy that I’ve made it thus far, well I think its pretty [...]ReplyCancel

  • Crafty Monogamy - [...] this and have fabric and thread for another cowl necked Renfrew whilst I’m working away on my man’s winter coat. I’m looking forward to just breaking the pace a bit with something different that’s [...]ReplyCancel

  • Sewing Library: Japanese Craft Books Cont. » A Fashionable Stitch - [...] I hope you enjoy these! The color compositions and photo styling is so wonderful I think. Lovely and modern with a whimsical twist. In a bit of other news, I’ve had a pretty swell time beefing up the blog over the weekend. I’m still chipping away at it bit by bit, but hop on over and tell me what you think of the layout. I really do love hearing your opinions as they are important when I plan big changes. Have a wonderful Monday! I’m off to lunch with a friend and then its putting my nose to the grindstone as I try to finish up the coat! [...]ReplyCancel

  • Stitching Spotlights 12.7.2012 » A Fashionable Stitch - [...] friends! How’s your December shaping up? Mine is going pretty well. The coat is almost finished. Almost. I promised the mister he would have it by Monday and by George! it will [...]ReplyCancel

  • Stitching Spotlights 12.14.2012 » A Fashionable Stitch - [...] The coat is finished. Like, all the way done. Can you even believe that? Mr. S has been at death’s door with the flu so we haven’t yet been able to take photos. Nor has he had the haircut he promised me to get because I finished the coat – do you make deals with your significant other like this? I’ll make you a coat if you’ll please just get a haircut. Somehow, I’m pretty sure one is not on the same level as the other, but the things we do for love, am I right? Anyways, photos will happen this weekend or my name is mud. Promise. [...]ReplyCancel