December 10, 2012

Winter Coat for My Man: the Home Stretch

I'm sure that you can already sense that in the next photo session of this coat, Mr. S will be wearing it. We are that close.

Today I thought I would explain a few things about the coat and give you inside shots of well, the inside. I die. It's gorgeous. First things first. The toggles. were. a. nightmare. to. attach. Grrrrhhhh! Of course I did it after putting the entire coat shell together, so yeah, the stitching is not perfect, but you know what, I let it go. My perfectionist didn't have it in her, plus I did just read a very good quote on perfectionism: "Perfectionists pave the road to hell working with grains of sand." So, there's that, of course. In addition, I would like to add something about my mister and his predilection to give me a run for my money. After we had exhaustively discussed the fabric, lining, blah blah blah and after I had constructed the front and back bodice pieces of the coat shell, it was at this time that he told me to just, "add some color to the outside of this thing, will ya?" Do I even need to say anything else? then I added the flashes of yellow in the buttonholes, to which he added, "I like it, but I wanted purple." I told Leena, a lady I work with about this and of course she had a piece of purple ultrasuede. Well, Mr. S says its dark violet, but he likes it. This is why the toggle patches are purple or violet or I mean, dark violet. Pimp, am I right?

We may now proceed to the inside of which I controlled everything and learned my lesson on asking for opinions from a certain someone.... Ahem. Are you ready for this? I found out after I had constructed the outer shell, that the wool was a bit on the thinner wool coating side so I interlined the lining. If you don't know, interlining is combining layers of fabric so that they act as one, the exact same thing as underlining, but in the case of interlining, this is done soley to provide warmth to the garment. Underlining is done to provide the garment with more structure, body or opacity. I combined three layers here - lining, lambswool and flannel. At first it was just going to be flannel, but then the flannel I purchased was cheap and thin and so I added the lambswool in between the lining and flannel and now its like wearing magma. Yup. Mr. S said he was banking on this thing being warm and warm it will be. So there you have the lining.

From there, let's have a chat about the lining I used. I've seen this type of thing in RTW and I've been dying to copy it - using a contrasting lining in the sleeve. For the body I used a lovely lovely and heavy rayon crepe back satin that I found whilst lurking over at Fashion Fabrics Club several months ago. It's a perfect weight for a coat and such a great fiber content and it was seriously so amazingly easy to work with and use. LOVE this fabric! For the sleeve, I used a grey silk charmeuse from Yellow Bird Fabrics. Doesn't it look great? It's totally lush to wear too. I tried it on which is how I know. I really really love this idea because, as you might have guessed, this really cuts down on the cost of the lining of the coat (I mean instead of lining the whole thing in silk charmeuse, you know), yet still adds luxury and an element of style to an otherwise boring black lining. The rayon was only like $5 a yard and then of course, there's the silk charmeuse, but you really only need the length of a sleeve - like 3/4 - 1 yard and Voila! Instant stylish lining. Think of using leftover silk pieces! Pretty spiffy, eh? In case you were interested, this is my first time bagging a lining on a coat/jacket and I used Jen's tutorial which is pretty much brilliant. She's such a genius! Love! I need to edit the sleeves a little bit here, but other than that, the lining is A, OK.

Mr. S insisted on inner pockets and so the only thing to be done was welts. Totally took some of that flannel from the interlining for the welts and then created the welt pocket. The japanese book also supplied the pattern for these and they came out just great though I totally made up the directions as I went along. Not too shabby, right?

What else can I tell you? The flap part around the chin came with the pattern. I'm not exactly sure what to call it, but it keeps the hood up, I guess and all in all, it actually looks kind of cool, right? Well, I think it looks cool. All in all, that pretty much wraps up the coat. I'll share more about how I feel about the whole thing in my next post. What do you think?

My hands hurt, btw, because there was still a lot of hand sewing even though I did a huge chunk of it all by machine.
Off to find the IBprofen.
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