October 21, 2012

Winter Coat for My Man - the Muslins

With a project like this that's going to take quite some time to finish, I think its always a good idea to make a muslin. I used to make muslins all the time of everything I was going to sew and now, I've kind of turned a little rogue and try to restrict the muslin making to only those things that I draft for myself or require a gigantic commitment of time. This coat for my man falls in the latter category. I made two muslins here because I want this coat to be as perfect as possible for him.

Lest you think that I'm married to someone who is in all respects very boring, let me undo that fantasy right now. Even though Mr. S told me that since I was making a coat for him I could take as many photos as I liked of him in whatever stage I was at, this photo shoot took some real coaxing. For one, I had just woken the beast up from a nap and two, this was the end of a very short weekend in which he spent the entire time doing homework (he just went back to school this fall). If he looks a bit strung out and rather wild, that's because he is. It is almost Halloween after all! Ha ha!

Anyway, let's chat about the muslins here. So just to update, I'm making the toggle coat from the Men's Japanese Coat Book. In the first muslin we had some definite fitting issues. When I'm making something, especially for someone else, I think its important to note their view on the feel. The first muslin looked alright except for the sleeves - too short - but Mr. S told me that there was some serious tightness in the arms when he put his arms in front of him. Not only are we married and live in the same home, but we share the same broad upper back problem. Oh yes! Later this week I'll show you how I fixed this problem and how I fix my own broad upper back problem. This is also the reason you see the slashes in the back here - its part of how I fix the issue. More on that later, promise.

So after I did a few alterations namely - lengthened the sleeve, fixed the broad upper back and raised the armscye - I think we've got something pretty great to work with. The second muslin shows the mobility in the arm and the added amount to the back. The back actually hangs quite nicely, but someone wouldn't stand straight and put their head up! So naughty!

Next up - draft a lining pattern and add a zipper placket! Almost time to cut into the cloth! How exciting! Thoughts? How many of you live with a significant other who has the same fitting problem as you do?

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