May 29, 2012

from the Tailor's Front

After dragging my feet in the sewing room for what seems to have been an eternity, I decided to delve into Gertie's online Starlet Suit Jacket course via Craftsy. At first I thought to my little old self that I had lost a bit of my sanity. I mean, its long work to tailor a jacket. It's been a couple of years since last I tailored something and somehow, I don't seem to remember enjoying it all that much. So its way weird that I'm taking so much pleasure in it right now.

Initially I muslined up the pattern. I'll admit that I feel the pattern has some rather interesting issues (non fitting related), and after the muslin I did think about tossing it out, but it does have such a cute shape and Mr. S was like "Get in there (my sewing room) and fix it!" Ok, Ok so my mister is a total tease, but he was still pretty stern. It probably would have been a good idea to actually muslin the entire jacket, lining included, but I'm much too lazy for that, so I did what I could for it and hopefully it all comes out in the wash. If it doesn't, I will cry and I'll take a picture of me crying and that's just not pretty.

I picked up this black cotton boucle (yes, its totally 100% cotton) from Yellow Bird for it. At first, knowing me, I was thinking I would go with something outrageous, a color or even a plaid. Then I saw this black cotton boucle (at least I think its boucle) and then my brain started recalling things like how I need more of those pieces that yeah, they make a statement, but they go with everything. It was then and there that I decided that I needed a black jacket, even a black pencil skirt from same said fabric and a pair of cotton sateen Clovers to complete my dark and evil plan for a three piece suit that will go with everything but yet will be comfortable to wear. Yes. Now we come to this. Tailoring the jacket.

So, even though my fabric may look thick, its actually more of a medium weight and has a rather fabulous drape and its extremely soft, comfortable and breathable. I was thinking Spring/Summer/Early Fall. So I didn't opt to use hair canvas because 1) I didn't have a lightweight option nearby, 2) hair canvas can actually be quite hot and its nearly summer and I intend to wear this thing, and 3) hair canvas can be rather stiff and that kind of makes me feel a little stuffy and well stiff. So I went with a high quality premium muslin instead. Its more pliable and less stiff than hair canvas, and its been a great alternative to the hair canvas in my opinion. So anyway, that's what you see here, padstitched muslin. And, PS I do realize that my padstitching and muslin extend into the seamline, but as per the videos that part was somewhat missing until it was too late, so I'm keeping it just in case the padstitching all comes apart from one little clip.

And then after all that, there's all the handwork I've done to these jacket fronts. Bound buttonholes, taping the roll line, uneven basting, temporary basting, padstitching the lapel and taping the edge. I wasn't really looking forward to doing all of it either, but the way crazy thing is, it is sooooooo satisfying. My work here ain't perfect, but I'm telling you, tailoring is really satisfying. Oh my gosh. The other night, when I was finishing up to go to bed, I just felt so satisfied. I know, I keep saying that, but that is the best word for it. Satisfaction.

Well, Ok Ok, I was totally satisfied until I reached the welt pockets. Readers, these puppies strike fear into my heart! Seriously. I've never really mustered the courage to do a welt pocket and now I know why. What was even worse, is that though I felt Gertie's instructions were quite good and we were going along all great and dandy, it was AFTER she had cut and slashed the pocket - meaning that I had just cut and slashed the pocket too - that she sheepishly mentioned that we all should have interfaced the pocket opening from the very beginning AND that it would be mentioned at the beginning of the video as they went through and made edits, but yet it wasn't mentioned at the beginning of the video. What's worse is that my pocket was in serious need of interfacing. I muddled through, and actually applied interfacing anyway, restitched the pocket to the front of the jacket and then recut the pocket slash in the interfacing, but boy, I really wasn't happy. In the end, I think they turned out alright. They could be better with practice, which I plan to do, but for what I ended up having to do with them, I think they're pretty good. I opted to stitch down the welts instead of leaving them flopping about and I probably should have done this by hand, but I was a bit mad about the whole thing and rather angrily shoved the thing into my machine and hastily stitched down the silly flaps.

So all this to show what I've been up to. Oh and Mr. S fixed my computer (he's crazy good at stuff like that) - though I confess that I've had my share of surprises, but I think we've got it all under control now. Did you have a good weekend? Work on anything fun? Satisfying?

for the most part, satisfied,
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