Please note that as of March 2015, my online shop closed and these belt and buckle kits are no longer available. Sadly, I do not have another source for them at this time. Thank you so much!
Today I’m going to be showing you how to make a belt from a belt and buckle kit. I’m a “kit” freak – I really love it when things come packaged in a handy dandy kit. It’s just one of those crazy fetishes I have. Belt and buckle kits are no exception here. I have a collection of what seems like a trillion and of course, I sell ’em in the shop.
Because I don’t like writing and reading really long posts, I’ve decided to break things up into smaller posts and pages for you. All links for the techniques will be on this post and I’ll point them out for you. I’ve also added a very handy print-friendly button for every post and page on my site here. You’ll see it at the end of the page as you click on a desired post. Hopefully this helps you as we jump around just a little bit today, Ok? Okey Doke. Let’s get started.
I’ll be making up the most popular selling belt and buckle kit in my shop. The interesting thing about this particular kit is that you have to use the prong and eyelets in order for it to work. Let’s go over what’s typically included in a belt and buckle kit first. You should have the following:
✂ Belt Backing
✂ Premade or hand cover buckle
✂ Adhesive pattern for hand cover buckle
✂ Eyelet Washers (optional and included in Fashionable Stitch kits)
If you have a kit that has a hand cover buckle included, you’ll need to cover the buckle in a fabric of your choice. Get whimsy and cover your buckle in a coordinating print or textured fabric or you can leave it simple for a true vintage feel. You can find a quick how-to for how to cover your buckle here. You’ll also need to add the prong too.
Let’s move onto the belting. You’ll need to cut the piece of belt backing to your waist measurement ( I measure over the clothes I’ll be wearing the belt with) plus 6 – 8 inches. I’ve been opting for the 6 inch side of things. Next you’ll need to cut a point on the end (or any other shape you desire – round, blunt, 3-cornered, etc.). If your belt backing is wonky from the packaging, have a peek at this tip to see how to get it to ship-shape up. Put this aside.
Cut your fabric. I typically chop this off the end of a piece of fabric on the cross-grain – but you can go with cross grain or straight grain. You’ll need to cut a rectangular piece that is 2 times the width of the belt backing + seam allowances (example: for 1″ wide belting, cut a 3″ wide piece which would allow for a 1/2″ seam allowance) and that is also 2 inches longer than the length of your belting.
For the purposes of this kit, whose application involves the use of the eyelets, I’m going to show my favorite way of sewing the fabric for the belt. For fabrics that are lightweight and fray crazy, definitely have a go at the sewing application for the Anything-But-Basic Belt. Otherwise, pin your fabric, right sides together along the lengthwise edge with the belt backing nestled inside. Stitch down the lengthwise edge with your zipper foot sidled close to the belt backing ridge. Take out your belt backing, mark the pointed end with chalk and then stitch that in place. Now, for a belt with eyelets, I like to keep the seam to the side instead of running it down the middle of the inside of the belt. It just makes the eyelet application that much easier, especially if you’ve chosen a medium to heavy weight fabric.
Once the fabric has been sewn, grade your seam allowances, turn the fabric right side out (a loop turner or bodkin is especially useful in this situation) and then insert your belting. And just so you are aware, this step might take you some time because inserting the belting is like a stuffing a pincushion – not hard, just time consuming. Let’s keep going.
Bonus Tip: Once you’ve got the belting in the fabric and all is situated, its a great option to topstitch around the edges to keep the fabric from slip sliding around over the belting. Take a cue from the Anything-But-Basic Belt and use a contrasting handstitch too!
Now its time to add the buckle. Along the raw edge of the belt, you’ll need to fold the belting back approximately 1.5 – 2 inches and then cut a small wedge into the middle of the fold. This cut is for the prong. I also like to dab a bit of fray check around this cut, just for added durability. Just so you are aware, and just in case your wedge looks a bit amiss, this part won’t show when you wear your belt. Once dry, slide the buckle into place with the prong into the hole. Fold under the fabric’s raw edges and stitch the belt into place. Bonus Tip: Add a jean rivet or nailhead to secure this section in place instead of stitching! You can also add a belt carrier to finish out the buckle area. The one you see here is just a strip of fabric that’s been sewn into a tube, turned right side out, topstitched and then attached to the belt by hand.
Almost done – can you believe it? All that’s left is adding the eyelets! Yay! For a tutorial on how to maneuver eyelets, jump over here. I highly recommend reading it, especially if you’ve never applied an eyelet to a belt before and/or if you’ve not had good luck with eyelets in the past.
Once the eyelets are applied, you’re ready to model and fashion your new belt. And there you go! That’s the Belt Kit Belt friends!