If you are sewing version 3 for the Ginger Skirt and you’ve already tried to insert the zipper I’m sure you’ve found out that it ends up bubbling. It’s no small bubble either. In fact, I dare say it looks like you are sporting a new growth on your rear end – like you’re about to sprout a tail. It’s not pleasant. Sewing a zipper into a bias cut garment is a little tricky. I decided to walk you through the entire process from start to finish. This is similar to today’s earlier post on how to insert an invisible zipper, but with amended techniques for the bias cut. Let’s get started so that you too can insert a stellar zip into your bias cut skirt.
You will need:
- a zipper opening (obviously something to put the zipper in, you know, like a skirt)
- an invisible zipper
- organza, tricot or interfacing; this is the stabilizer
- a marking pen or chalk
- a zipper foot
- an invisible zipper foot – optional. I have inserted a zipper using this method with a conventional zipper foot, so if you don’t have one of these, don’t worry, you’ll be fine.
1. Your zipper opening will need to be opened up 2 – 4 inches below the bottom of the zipper opening. If you’ve already stitched up to the zipper opening, unpick the 2 – 4 inches below the bottom of the zipper opening.
2. Cut two 1 inch strips of your stabilizer on the bias and 2 inches longer than the length of your zipper. I prefer silk organza, though tricot and or a light sew-in interfacing work just fine. Baste or adhere these strips to the wrong side of your zipper opening with a 1/4 inch seam allowance along the edge.
3. You will need to mark the seam allowance for the zipper opening. I prefer to press the seam allowance for this, however, you can also thread mark or use chalk as long as the chalk has a fine tip. You want to be as accurate as possible.
4. You bias cut skirt pieces are going to be stitched to a straight grained zipper and this means that we need to ease it into the zipper. Make sure that the zipper end marking from the paper pattern has been transferred onto your skirt pieces. Now, stitch two rows of ease stitching (long stitches – just like gathering stitches) 1/2″ and 1/4″ away from the seam allowance. Extend these ease stitches 2 – 4 inches below the zipper marking. Ease in (or gather slightly) the seam allowances on the bias portions of the skirt (the waistband is not on the bias).
5. Un-zip the zipper and with right sides together pin the zipper to the zipper opening down one side of the zipper. Allow the bias section of the skirt to be eased into the zipper so the that the end mark lines up exactly with the end of your zipper. Using your invisible zipper foot, or your conventional zipper foot, open the teeth with your finger and stitch from the top of the zipper to the bottom. Stitch close to the zipper teeth being careful not to catch the zipper teeth. Backstitch a few times at the bottom of the zipper. Do the same for the other side of the zipper.
6. Close the zipper. At the base of the zipper, pull up the zipper tape with your fingers and spear a pin from one stitched side to the other. Stitch with your zipper foot from the speared pin to the end of the skirt or where the stitching of the seam below the zipper begins again, still making sure that all the ease stitching (including the inches of ease below the zipper) is still eased. Once you reach the end of the easing threads continue stitching seam as for bias garments.
7. Press and steam the zipper from the right side over a tailor’s ham.
Just to make sure you believe that this works, here’s a sneak peek of the zipper in this skirt on me. Now please, I realize there are some drag lines just underneath the waistband which looks uncannily like a I’m need of a sway back adjustment, so just disregard those (and the few chevrons that don’t quite match up) and examine the zipper. See? No bubbles.
Hopefully this helps those of you working on version 3. This is a tricky bit. I actually had to unpick and redo this zipper a few times before it dawned me that I couldn’t use sewing on the bias techniques when I was sewing a bias piece to a straight grained piece. After having accomplished this zipper insert, I feel that version 3 is not a beginner’s version. I have to admit that I feel this is more of an intermediate skirt version because of the this zipper insert which is something to keep in mind if you are a beginner and planned to make this version in the future.
And guess what? We’ve got 2 more days of the sewalong and then next week we’ll have a party! How exciting is that? Very, I know. I’ll be back tomorrow with piping and pockets and Gertie’s going to show us a couture technique that some of you advanced sewers might want to tackle.
xoxo,
Sunni
Similar Posts:
- Inserting an Invisible Zipper
- Prickstitching a Lapped Zipper Tutorial
- Pencil Skirt Lesson #4 – The Invisible Zipper Tutorial
- Bonus Post – Sewing on the Bias
- Seam Finishes
{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
Your tutorials are great. I’m learning a lot from this sewalong, considering I’m not actually participating in it!
And this post made me realize that although I’ve sewn bias garments before, I’ve never done one that had a zipper. So, good info to have before I ever try that.
Stacy recently posted..Joining Me-Made-June
can’t wait to try this!! i’m going to gather my supplies tonight and give it a try. great post!
I finally understand why I had this problem when I made my second skirt ever a few years ago. I thought it had to do with the lightweight fabric or some beginner’s mistake in cutting out. I am saving this post for later!
Sewing Princess recently posted..Easy Swing Skirt
Thanks for this. Been struggling with my zip today and figured it was something to do with the bias cut of the fabric. I will tackle the zip again tomorrow once I’ve made friends with the skirt again.
Finally tried this and it worked like a charm! I used an iron-in interfacing, but my fabric is pretty sturdy so I think it worked okay. I had to hand-sew close to the zipper teeth at the bottom, but NO BUBBLES in the zipper!!! In the future, I think I’m going to move the zipper to the side seam in bias cut skirts, because it will lay flatter than trying to curve over my rear end. Thank you for this very detailed tutorial!
Hi Sunni, Thanks so much for making this tutorial. Though I’m still battling with my crazy zipper, I understand what you’re suggesting here, so I’m confident that I’ll win out in the end. But, I’m not sure I would have figured out why the zipper was so wonky if it weren’t for having read this post. I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to share with other seamstresses, especially those with your level of experience, through the internet. Thanks for always putting together thoughtful and helpful posts!
Amy recently posted..This Very Important Piece Will Have to Wait
You’ve just saved a professional here, I did extensive work on bias cut dresses at Uni but haven’t made anything cut on the bias with a zip for five years until making these incredible 30s style crepe bias cut dresses for a wedding, they looked so perfect with stunning panel cut piping work, and then the zip bubbled. I still have so much to learn! Thank you for saving my bacon!!!
Oh I do hope this helps you! Thanks so much for pointing out your lovely blog too! So much inspiration! Gorgeous!!!!
OMG – Sunni, I’m sure I’ve read this whole series but how did I miss this post??!! Cuz I totally have the bubble zip on my butt thing happening with my bias cut Ginger, and I almost had to throw myself out a window from misery. Alas, this is going to make it all better. Thank you so much.
K-Line recently posted..Shout Out to the Experts: Invisible Zipper Rippling
Thanks so much for this tutorial! I was wrapping my brain around how to fix a very bubbly invisible zip in a bias cut dress, and you saved the day! Thanks for the clear, easy to follow instructions!