December 1, 2011

How to: Petersham Ribbon Waistband

It's been crazy here Dearhearts - so please, if my posts are a bit scatter-brained, forgive me. Now that you know all the in's and out's of petersham ribbon (see last week's post), you can start applying it in various ways to different sewing projects you may have. This is but one way, I have more still to come! As you can see, my blanket skirt is coming along quite nicely. Again this is the skirt section of Sewaholic's Lonsdale Dress and its been a breeze to make. Let me tell you where I'm at as far as skirt construction, so that if you decide to opt for a waistband like this you'll know when to insert. The skirt sections are sewn together, plus the pockets. I've also got the lining all put together (but not put into the skirt yet) and I'll be taking a cue from Tasia (and her clever Crescent zipper insertion which you can see here and here) for inserting my zipper. Alright. As you can see, I've done a little something fancy with the petersham here. I've used both the 2" plum and the 1 1/4" honey from the shop (the shop is closed as of March 2015). My brilliant Mr. S actually helped me come up with this. I was debating on which of these colors to use for the waistband and Mr. S cleverly thought I should use both. His eye is getting better and better, don't ya think?

Step 1 For the waistband, you will need two lengths of petersham that is your waist measurement + 1/2" for wearing ease + seam allowances. Please note, that I'm only talking about the plum petersham I'm using here. You'll want both an inside and outside waistband - the honey petersham is just a trimming for the outside (its not on the inside). If you plan to wear your skirt/bottom with a shirt tucked in, I would recommend taking your waist measurement over clothing, just so that you don't get it too tight. To begin, you'll need to pre-shrink the petersham (do this before cutting), by soaking in warm water for a couple of minutes and drip drying. Once dry, give the petersham a good press and stretch slightly as you go.

Step 2 Next, stitch the petersham facing waistband to the skirt lining. To make this step easier, I added a basting stitch along the seam allowance of the lining and lined up the petersham with the stitching line. Topstitched the petersham to the skirt lining and then took out the basting stitch. Did the same thing for the outer skirt too, but added the covered belt buckle and honey petersham beforehand. Bonus Tip You can also hand baste before stitching with your machine to make things even easier. I did that for the honey petersham as I applied it to the outside waistband.  After you've applied the petersham, give your seam allowance (skirt fabrics only) a good trim to 1/4". Makes for alot less bulk when wearing. Easy as pie right?

Step 3 ✂ Now, its time to add your zipper to the lining. Keep in mind that I'm using a trusty standard metal zipper (a lovely Riri number from New York, no less). To insert, stitch the zipper tape to the lining with the zipper's wrong side pinned to the lining's right side. In other words, if you were to put the lining on at this point, the zipper would be facing outward from the body. Hopefully that gives you an idea, because it tends to feel a little backwards. Oh and do make sure that you've changed over to your zipper foot - that will make this a whole bunch easier.

Step 4 ✂ Time to add the skirt lining with the zipper to the outer skirt. To do this, you'll do the same thing you did with the skirt lining to the outer skirt, but this time, you'll attach the right side of the zipper to the right side of the outer skirt. You'll end up with the zipper inserted and the fabric from the skirt folding away from the zipper. Now its time to tack that down. I did this part by hand with a prickstitch, but you can also do it by machine.

Step 5 ✂ Once done with the zipper, all that's left is to stitch the waistband facing to the outer waistband along the top edge and then stitch in the ditch just below the lower edge of the petersham. To stitch in the ditch refers to stitching through all layers, in the area just below the seam allowance where the waistband and skirt sections meet. Stitch from the right side of the skirt and go slowly, using a thread that matches your skirt for added invisibility.

And from there, you'll have a lovely petersham waistband and a beautifully inserted zipper to boot. What do you think? If I've confused you to no end, do not miss Tasia's own tutorial for her Crescent skirt zipper insertion, which I sited earlier.

Happy 1st day of December! I'll give you a good show and tell of the finished skirt come Monday!

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