December 8, 2011

Gettin My Fix

I know exactly what you're thinking. That skirt....again. I know. I just couldn't leave the dumb thing alone. I was wearing it just a few days ago and feeling absolutely, completely dissatisfied. I kept thinking things like, " boy, I really fouled this thing up" and "I thought I was good at sewing" and "where did I go wrong?" Kind of felt like I was talking to my own kid, you know. After I had had just about enough of that, I decided to march myself right home, take off that skirt and get to fixin. I aided my thought processes along the way by cheering myself into thinking things like "I can do this" and "its not so bad, I'm sure I can fix it" and "I am a great seamstress, just you wait. Skirt, you do not have the best of me yet."

On Monday, I mentioned what I didn't love about the skirt. The biggest offender was that dratted hem and the lining issue. So today, you're in for it, because I've got another petersham tutorial. I'm not going to tell you what I did on the original hem. Oh, it's just so lame, I just can't. But I will tell you that I did try horsehair braid to start with. Now, I love horsehair braid. LOVE it! I put it in my circle skirt and it's brilliant. But on a half circle skirt, well at least on me, it looked kind of weird. I don't know. It was bulging out in all the wrong places and it was just too stiff. So I had tried that. Didn't work. After coming home on Tuesday and feeling like a failure at a simple skirt, I remembered that you can use petersham in hems. I mean, I was going to show this tutorial anyway, but now you get it a whole bunch sooner because it was absolutely necessary to put it in this skirt. Let's get on with it then and I'll show you what I mean.

Step 1 Measure your skirt hem and find out just how much petersham you'll need. I used about 3 1/4 yards for this skirt. And here, I'm using the 3/4" cream petersham from the shop. You'll find that this type of hem treatment is especially good for a-line and circle-ish skirts as it kind of, almost, does the same thing as horsehair braid. It's not so stiff though and works nice when you need a little more body and less rigidity.

Step 2 Next you need to thoroughly wet the petersham with warm-ish water. I just run mine under the tap... Dry with a towel and go turn on your iron. When your iron is nice and piping hot you're going to press the petersham. Now, you're not just going to press it willy nilly. No, you've got to take your little hand along one edge of the petersham and pull that edge (pull hard) as you press down with the iron (steam's real nice here too) with your other hand. Do it in a sort of circular shape like the photo below. You're going to do that for the entire length of the petersham. If that's not sweat shop labor, I just don't know what is. Phew...

What you end up with is one edge that starts to curl a little from being pulled along one edge. It's kind of neat actually. Kind of like magic, and we're all into that around here, right? Yup.

Step 3 Now we need to add the petersham to the skirt hem. You'll apply the lettuce like wavy edge (the one you just pulled) to the skirt. Pin it to the right side of the fabric, stitch it, and you know, do your thing. Once you're done with that, you're going to flip the petersham up into the hemline. Pin that in place and topstitch or slipstitch into place. Give all that a good press and just like that You. Are. Done.

And just behold the "fixed" skirt. Isn't it a lovely? Oh dear! You can't even believe how thrilled I am to wear it again. Oh, and I also fixed the lining too. I think I was even more unhappy with that than the original hem treatment. I shortened it just a little more than normal as, like I've stated before, I cut the lining on the straight grain and the skirt on the bias. But then I added those wonderful attacher thingies. I have no idea what their real name is (but if you do, leave it in the comments). There is a rhyme to their madness, I must admit. I mean, I know you can just attach serged thread, but I went fancy and did them by hand. I attached them to the side and the front seam allowances and low and behold! they keep the lining from peeking out when you sit down. I know. You're way impressed. He. he. he.

Thanks for tuning it in here. Everything is all better now and very much as it should be. I might even wear the skirt to bed just to show it how much I love it. ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ May all your flops magically fix, real soon.

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