August 4, 2011
Lonsdale Tutorial - Bust Padding
I padded the bust on my Playdate Dress, which I'm sure you know by now. It was soooooo easy! I followed Tasia's own bust padding tutorial for how to make the bust pads and added a small change of my own too. If you haven't, definitely read through Tasia's tutorial first.
Since this dress is very simple on top and doesn't have alot of seams or alot of contouring like the dress that Tasia originally made the bust padding for I decided to make just a few simple changes to compensate for this simplicity. I had actually thought about putting in boning and all that, but I wanted the dress to stay comfy and casual and relatively easy. So I only made the bust pads. And they really worked out quite well. I don't feel completely flat when I wear the dress and this definitely eliminates the need for wearing a strapless bra. Here's what I did:
First, make a muslin underlining to hold the bust pads. Make this from the original front bodice pattern piece and then just whack off the neck ties for added simplicity. Baste your muslin underlining pieces to the front bodice shell at the center front and side seams and before stitching the center seam. I know that's not exactly what's shown here, but that's how I did it, just so you know. Leave the seams at the waist and upper bust open so that you can tack in the bust pads when they are finished. After this, stitch up the center front seam and attach the back panels according to the pattern directions. Now you can set that aside and get working on the bust pads.
Take a quick measurement of one of your, ahem.... breasts and then wander around the house in search of a circular object that is similar in diameter to the measurement you need. Cut out a circular piece from this circular object (mine was a candle holder - ha). Oval out the piece and then cut a second piece and start chopping off a 1/4" all around the circle. Do this for a few layers, making each layer just a tad smaller than the one before it. This was more or less the directions that Tasia outlined in her tutorial. Really simple. I made a good 4 or 5 layers for my Playdate Dress and then just hand stitched the layers in place.
Again, since the dress doesn't have a contoured bust, I improvised. I already had some elastic thread in the sewing machine from the shirring I did to the back panels and so, I decided to do one line of stitching around the perimeter of the bottom pad 1/4" away from the edge to cinch in the bust pad and create a similar contour to a bra. Bust pads, done!
After all this, try on your basic bodice shell and determine where to put the bust pads. I did this without a bra, since a bra straps you in and lifts you up you could get the wrong placements for where to put the pads. So after fiddling with this for a bit, determine the best placement for the bust pads and then pin them in place and hand stitch them into the muslin underlining. From here on, follow the directions for finishing the dress and you are good to go with a little bust padding (especially for those of us with small busts) for added Ooommmph!
Hopefully this helps you if you plan to make bust pads to go into your Lonsdale! If you have questions, let me know and I'll do my best to answer them!
© A Fashionable Stitch. All rights reserved.