August 2, 2011

How to Fit My Body - Lonsdale Bodice

For my playdate dress I muslined the bodice of the Lonsdale dress only. Notwithstanding the rather huge discussion of muslin making around the interwebs and the pros and cons and such of the practice, here at A Fashionable Stitch, you'll see muslins. I cut a size 8. To give you an idea, I have a 35" bust, 29" waist and 39" hip. Again, I did the bodice only because the skirt is just a half circle skirt and should fit according to the body measurements on the back of the pattern. Alright, here goes:

For the purposes of this muslin, I'm showing it to you on Ms. Prism because it's easier for me to pin and photograph. The bodice looks nearly the same on meas it looks like here on Ms. P:

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


Really, not bad. Ms. P and I share a "full" A bust cup though and the pattern, is more or less drafted for a flatter A cup. So the section below the bust here is a bit baggy. By the way, I did try on the bodice with my bra, since I was going to make bust cups instead of going bra-less (I'll show you exactly what I did for the bust cups tomorrow). Since the bodice is dartless, and I wanted to keep it that way, I took the excess out of the center front seam. Around the bust edges, there was a bit of gaping and so I pinned out the excess in that area as well. See?

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


Lonsdale Dress Fitting


Let's have a look at how this transfers to the pattern piece itself. See how the front center seam is now a little curved? This was the excess taken out of the center front seam. For the gaping around the bust edge, I slashed and spread the pattern piece the amount I had pinned out. These two adjustments for me really hit the nail on the head and made my front bodice piece fantastically fitted.

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


Lonsdale Dress Fitting


For the back section, you can see that I've made a sway back adjustment. An adjustment I've been having to make on a few patterns recently. To do this, I merely pinned out the excess of the back (this is a vertical adjustment) all the way to the side and into the front bodice piece to make the waistline sit level all around my waist.

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


To fix the pattern, I slashed and spread again on the back piece and also on the front. From there, I made sure that the front and back bodice sections "trued up" or that they were the same length at the side seam so sewing them together again would be a cinch.

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


And on the front:

Lonsdale Dress Fitting


The back panels have also been adjusted here for shirring (the white piece that's been added into the pattern). I'll be showing a proper tutorial on how I adjusted the entire bodice for this later this month via the Sewaholic blog!

Hopefully this gives you an idea of what to look for when you make your Lonsdale dress! He he he! I receive several questions about fitting, so I thought I should include more of how I fit my body and where I have to make adjustments. Questions? Ask away!

xoxo,
Sunni
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