May 23, 2011

Ginger Muslin

If this is your first time making a muslin, its a good practice to get into. After you've made the flat pattern adjustments, we need to test the pattern to make sure it fits. And that's what muslins are, a test, a practice run. They don't just test fit either. Muslins test out the pattern, making sure that the adjustments you made actually work and that the pattern itself isn't flawed in some way before we cut into the final fabric. The flat pattern adjustments really go a long way in helping the fit to be better and sometimes that's all we need to do, but many times there are alterations to be made. That said, I don't think there will be a lot, if any alterations that need to be made to this pattern. It's really easy, however, muslin making is always a good idea and habit to get into.

For a muslin you don't need to mock up the entire pattern - just the skeleton will be fine. For our Ginger skirts you'll need to cut everything except the additional waistband pieces for the facing. Go ahead, cut out your muslin and stitch it up according to the pattern directions. Helpful tip: use a long basting stitch on your machine to mock up your muslin and a contrasting thread color. Disregard the waistband facing and instead thread mark the top of the waistband and press it over. Like this:

We are going to add in the zipper. It's good practice and it will give you a better idea of how the skirt fits. To add in the zipper, follow the directions, but use a long basting stitch on your machine so we can take it out easier. Helpful tip: do not press the zipper coil - it will melt and you will experience a zipper blowout - just press the zipper tape if needed.

For the hem, thread mark and press just like the top of the waistband. And now its ready for trying on. When you try it on, make sure you are wearing the underclothes you would wear with your skirt and a shirt similar to one that you have in mind to wear with your skirt. These skirts look so fine with a tucked in shirt that you want to be sure that you can indeed tuck in a shirt and zip up your skirt.

Some things to look for:

  • make sure you can tuck in a shirt if you plan to wear yours with a shirt tucked in.

  • the waist to the hip should be smooth, if not pin it out or let out the seam and then mark how much you let in or out on your pattern

  • make sure the hem is even all the way around, if not have someone help you by using a yard stick and having your helper measure from the floor and pin mark the same measurement all the way around your skirt, then take off your muslin and trim just below the pin marks all the way around the skirt.

Let me know if you have questions and by all means, definitely snap a photo and put it in the flickr pool - especially if you have questions about the fit. And if you do have questions about the fit, please make sure that you have photos of you wearing your muslin. In the past I've had people ask for fitting help, but are too shy to wear their muslin and take a photo. Don't be shy, wear a slip if needed and if you really don't want others seeing you in your muslin, send it to me via email and I'll help you out. I've put my muslin photos there and talked about my own personal alterations there too. Hop on over anyway and take a look at the fabric submissions. They are fantastic! Some really great Gingers are definitely going to be made up here!

Hopefully this skirt is an easy fit for you. Happy fitting!


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