January 28, 2011

Whipping the Lining into Shape

Today's post is very similiar to yesterday's post. The lining is so easy peasy to put together. The darts and pleats are stitched, then the inseam, outseam and crotch seam. The pocket is gone! Yay! A lot less fuss and stitching. Let's get to it then, shall we?

♥ Darts & Pleats ♥

Stitch darts on back trouser leg lining (piece 3). Press towards center back. Stitch pleats on front trouser leg lining (piece 1). Press pleats toward center front. Baste along top edge of trouser front to secure pleat to pant.

♥ Inseam, Outseam & Crotch Seam ♥

Pin right trouser leg front lining (1) to right trouser leg back lining (3), right sides together along the outseam (the seam that runs along the outside of the leg). Stitch. Press seam open. Do the same for the left leg, however leave the opening for the zipper unstitched. Pin right trouser leg front lining to right trouser leg back lining at inseam (the seam that runs along the inside of the leg). Stitch. Press seam open. Do the same for the left leg. To stitch crotch seam, turn one leg inside out and have one leg right side out. Put the right side out leg inside the inside out leg and pin crotch seam making sure fronts and backs are actually, front and back; that plaids and stripes are matched up correctly. Stitch crotch seam with 5/8" seam allowance. In the curve of the crotch, stitch another reinforcing seam 1/4" from original seam. Trim seam allowances, but do not clip curves. Press the crotch seam to one side.

Once the lining has been stitched, its time to insert the lining piece into the pants. With the lining inside out, place the lining inside your trouser shell with wrong sides together. Baste stitch along the top edge to secure in place. We'll leave the hemming of the lining until the end.

If you are rather new to linings you might question a few things. Firstly, should the seams have seam finishes. I say yes. I serged the lining for the seam finish on this pair and on my black pair (which I'll be showing you later) I did french seams. Lining fabrics have a definite tendency to fray and it will add to the longevity of your lining to finish the seams.

Secondly, you may be wondering what side of the lining goes against your skin and which side goes against the pants. I actually did wonder this back when and used to sew my linings with the seams facing towards my skin. This is not correct. One of the great points of a lining is that you don't have any exposed seams. They should all be tucked away in the garment. This means that the seams should not be against your skin, but against the shell's seams. Does that make sense? This also means that when you leave the opening for the zipper it will be on the opposing side that you stitched the opening for the pant shell. Pretty crazy huh? Hold up your pieces to you before you stitch seams. It will make more sense that way and won't leave you in a lurch.

Tomorrow we have it out with the waistband. I have a few variations to show you too. I've found that bias waistbands are more complex that I thought. We'll have fun with that tomorrow. Toodles! Happy weekending!


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