January 27, 2011
I think you might be surprised to see how quickly your pants will come together after all is said and done. I know I was. Today's post is stitching some basic seams for Burda #127. It will most likely resemble your pattern too if you've decided to go with a different pair. And this post looks very much like the post on stitching the trouser muslin and the construction steps are basically the same. So let's dig in:
♥ Darts & Pleats ♥
Stitch darts on back trouser leg (piece 3). Press towards center back. Stitch pleats on front trouser leg (piece 1). Press pleats toward center front. Baste along top edge of trouser front to secure pleat to pant.
♥ Pockets ♥
The trouser leg front (piece 1) adjoins with the pocket lining (piece 2a). With right sides together pin trouser leg front (1) along slanted pocket opening to the pocket lining (2a). Stitch. Understitch pocket lining. Press pocket lining to inside of garment.
Now its time to add the pocket. The pocket (piece 2) adjoins to the pocket lining (2a). Pin pocket (2) to the right side of pocket lining (2a) matching seamlines. Stitch along curved edge of pocket lining. Finish pocket edge with another line of stitching, with a zig-zag sitich or a serged edge. Baste pocket extension (2) to trouser leg front (1) along waistline and at outseam.
♥ Inseam, Outseam & Crotch Seam ♥
Pin right trouser leg front (1) to right trouser leg back (3), right sides together along the outseam (the seam that runs along the outside of the leg). Stitch. Press seam open. Do the same for the left leg, however leave the opening for the zipper unstitched. Pin right trouser leg front to right trouser leg back at inseam (the seam that runs along the inside of the leg). Stitch. Press seam open. Do the same for the left leg. To stitch crotch seam, turn one leg inside out and have one leg right side out. Put the right side out leg inside the inside out leg and pin crotch seam making sure fronts and backs are actually, front and back; that plaids and stripes are matched up correctly. Stitch crotch seam with 5/8" seam allowance. In the curve of the crotch, stitch another reinforcing seam 1/4" from original seam. Trim seam allowances, but do not clip curves. Press the crotch seam to one side.
I've tried to make these instructions as basic as possible. But I wanted to add a few notes here at the bottom that you can do to give life and beauty to the construction of your pants. We haven't added the waistband yet, or the zipper or the lining. Let's discuss pressing for a moment. I'm a big pressing fan. When pressing your darts and the seam allowances, use the wool side of a Tailor's Ham and Seam Roll, use a pressing cloth and the highest steam setting for your iron. The wool side of the ham or roll and the pressing cloth will help to avoid shine on the fabric. The steam really presses that wool into submission.
Keep in mind how you plan to care for your trousers and what, if any, seam finish you would like to use. For those of you who don't have a serger, consider zig zagging, or pinking your edges. Also consider a Hong Finish with silk organza or your lining fabric. I have many garments that don't have finished seams and sadly they are not as stable and lovely as those that do. Ultimately its up to you. It will take much longer, but is well worth the effort in my opinion. For the crotch seam, serge the seam finish or zig zag only.
Tomorrow we move onto the lining construction! Hip Hip Hooray!
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