So after all of this, you might still be having problems with your pant muslins. I know. It's crazy! However I think that now that we know something more about pants and how they should look and what to do about it, all of these adjustments are a little bit less scary. I thought it wise to bring up some of these different pant alterations and give you an idea of what they look like and what to do about them. Let's talk about fullness and the lack of fullness first. This is Arielle from Fashion Mate. And this is a very good photo that shows the need for a full derriere adjustment.
Arielle was completely correct in her assessment of what was going on in the back area of her pants muslin. She has a little tightness across the hipline in the back and a break just beneath her seat. She also has some drag lines pointing toward her crotch. What to do about it? Let's take a look at the Most Common Pant Alterations again.
Image source: Pants for Real People
posted with permission from Pati Palmer, highlight added
As you can see, the back leg - in the derriere section - needs a deepening. Does that make sense? Now, I also think that the crotch length, just in the back leg could be fiddled with as well if the drag lines don't disappear from beneath the seat. She might also require a little meddling with the width in the hips.
Let's also think about the front. What if you have a protruding pelvic bone? Same idea as with the full derriere. And let's not forget the opposite too. What if you have a less that full derriere or pelvic bone? In this case you're going to get a little pooling/puffiness in these areas and you'll fix the paper pattern by doing the opposite of what you see here.
Let's have a look at uneven waistlines now. This is CarlaF on Flickr and she has a slanted waistline. She's also done a very awesome thing and worn a belt over the top of her muslin.
What to do about it? CarlaF has exactly the right idea. Put on your muslin and tuck your pants into some 1/4" elastic around your waist, where your waistband will fall comfortably. Adjust your muslin and elastic until you have your waist just in the right place. Now take a peice of chalk or a marker and mark at the bottom of the elastic all the way around your waistline. Take off your muslin and begin measuring how much needs to be taken off of the waistline. The chalk line will be exactly where your waistline should fall, so you need to add in the seam allowance too. Now, this is not something that we are just going to chop off of the waistband. Instead, you need to alter the pant legs themselves and the pockets (if needed). You will need to fold out or slash and spread the crotch areas horizontally, just as we did for the crotch depth so as not to alter the waistband from connecting to the pants. Be aware that your front will need to have a bigger adjustment than your back and/or vice versa. And that means that you will need to blend the seam allowances in the side at the waistline. This same alteration will apply if you have different hip heighths too.
OK, hopefully these adjustments make sense. I think this wraps up the pants adjustments that I'll be showing here on the blog. I sincerely recommend again, Pants for Real People. This particular fitting reference goes into much more detail than I can go into here. But hopefully what I have covered has given you some help and a bit of insight and clarification into the world of pants. Not so bad right?
I'll be back tomorrow with more pant fitting fun.