January 26, 2011
Cutting the Lining
Lining trousers can greatly increase their longevity. Not to mention it feels utterly luxurious to have lined trousers. Granted not all pants are meant to have a lining. For instance jeans. But many pant styles benefit greatly from having a lining.
The thing to keep in mind with lining a pair of trousers is the pocket. The pocket should be sandwiched in between the trouser shell and the lining. This also means that while you'll retain certain aspects of the shell, such as the pleat in the front and the dart in the back, you'll blend the pocket pattern piece into the trouser leg to cut the lining. Make sense? Here's what I did to cut the lining for Burda #127:
The pocket affects the trouser leg front. So I took my pocket (not the pocket lining, just the pocket) and my trouser leg front and lined them up into one pattern. I taped them lightly to secure both of them together. I also messed with the hem. Just a bit. I folded both the front and back legs up the 2 1/2 inches I added for the cuff. This will still leave a good 3 inches for the hem. And then I cut the trouser leg fronts and then the backs. So you only need to cut the trouser legs for the lining as the waistband is faced. And that is that. Pretty easy really.
Tic Tac Toe, there you go. Tomorrow we're going to start stitching, so get those machines oiled.
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