A Fashionable Stitch » sartorial sewing

Muslining My Boyfriend’s Jacket

Oh the things we do for….fitting! Right? Well after I graded up this delightful jacket, I had to at least make one muslin to test the fit, and make sure that everything lined up just right. Hip hip hooray, it did for the most part. The front piece needed to be a little longer and other than that, I made a pretty good grade for this pattern. Shocking, yes! because this is only the second time I’ve done this and because it was a jacket.

The muslin fit quite well actually. It felt just a little baggy in the bodice, so I trimmed 1/2″ off the sides. Suprisingly, I had to make the sway back adjustment on this jacket as the waistband was a bit droopy. Not an adjustment I usually do, but hey, will be watching for that more now. I also needed a little more in the shoulder area. Yup, even with that pleat in the back, still not enough room in the yoke! Linebacker shoulders, I tell ya. Other than that, feeling pretty good about the overall fit and look of this pattern. I thought the collar would be a bit overwhelming, but I like it. It goes well with the puffy sleeve.

I’ve also decided to leave out the flap pocket. Sometimes, for me, things like that are just silly. But I might add one of those back belt-ish things with the two buttons on each side. Can’t remember what their called. And pockets like the ones on my mom’s jacket to boot. I think I’m more excited about the details of the jacket than the actual jacket itself. OK, back to my sewing machine. More to show next week, maybe even finished!

If you have an eye out for a jacket or coat, this book will give you step by steps on the fitting issues for jackets. Really this book, you cannot live without.

  • Laura - Wow, the collar and puffed sleeve combination is looking really fresh and modern to me! I went from digging on the 70’s kitsch of my childhood, to seriously dreaming of making something similar in corduroy maybe. Your muslin looks fab, and I think your choice on the flap pocket is a sound one. Especially working with a napped fabric you can really run the risk of it looking overworked no matter how much care you take.
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  • Peter - I think this looks great, Sunni. Can’t wait to see the finished jacket!
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  • Laura - Such was my frenzy that I found this pattern on ebid, and I’m going to just pretend this is a Boyfriend’s Jacket sew-along if you don’t mind. The grading post is also going to come in SO handy as well. I hope you don’t mind me jumping your train! Thanks so much for the inspiration..
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  • Tasia - Cute! I like the pleat along centre back, how it opens above and below the waist. What a fun project!
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  • B @ Sweet Limes - Seeing this it makes me want to see if I can find this pattern too, but unlike Laura I haven’t had the same luck to find one. :( I think it’s going to turn out to be drool worthy though.
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  • Eilane - Hello Sunni, the muslin was very good, amazing how a model can be as current vintage and beautiful.
    Hugs
    Eilan – Brazil
    http://www.eilanevidacostura.blogspot.com
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  • Uta - This will be so cute, Sunni! I have to fight the urge to throw out the already cut out short jacket I’m making and start over on a boyfriend jacket…
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  • Liz - This is such a cute pattern. I like it better on you than the pattern picture. Can’t wait for a potential sway-back adjustment post… :)
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  • Jill - I love the puff in the sleeves. Just call me Anne Shirley.
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  • juebejue - aww, i love the back! i think i will love itmore once you are done with the adjustments!
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  • Wanett - How could you know that I needed EXACTLY that book! I am trying to use a Burda Mag coat pattern and you know that’s like flying blind. Thanks!
    And your jacket looks awesome so far, too! ;O)
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  • Tamsin - Hi, This looks great. I am sewing a muslin for a dress (I have never done this before). I think that I need to take in the side seam under the arm – should I do this before I set in the sleeve or after – to see how the sleeve sits as is?
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  • Sherry - Oooh this looks lovely! The sleeves and collar really go together – can’t wait to see your finished one!
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  • Faye Lewis - Thank goodness I have the book, and I treasure it because it was gifted to me! It’s helped me a lot with my Lady Grey project. I love the fit of your jacket and the fact that you are really good at grading. I will refer back to your post for future projects. I love the pattern and I use to have a suit so similar to it in baby blue and it was gorgeous.
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  • The Cupcake Goddess - Hi Tamsin,
    I made the alteration to the tissue first and then cut out my pattern pieces. Heres the problem: If you take in the sides its going to affect the ease on the sleeve. So youll need to take in the sleeve the same amount you did for the sides and blend the edges into the sleeve seam. Does that make sense?
    If youve already stitched up both the bodice of the jacket and the sleeve and havent yet set in the sleeve, I would adjust the sides of the jacket and then set the sleeve in. You might have to take in the sleeve just a bit though too.
    Hopefully this helps. Let me know if I can help further.
    xoxo,
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  • Tamsin - Hi thanks – I’ll try the second one and see how that goes!
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  • denise calhoun - I’ve often looked at that pattern and wondered how it would make up. It’s gonna be gorgeous!
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  • Bunny - I actually like the way the back waist belt curves. I would just adjust the peplum so the two diagonal folds disappear, probably just a matter of lifting the peplum at CB. Great design.
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  • Angela - What a fun jacket! it looks great so far!
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