Before you cut your pattern….

You’re going to want to beat me. Andrea left me a comment today and noticed something that I did not. As this pattern is for taller ladies, that means that the size chart is actually completely different and that Burda Style (the American site) has linked to the wrong size chart for Burda #127. CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS? I’m almost about to scrap this pattern. Huge sigh……

In point of fact, this size chart is sort of like a regular commercial pattern size chart with random numbers assigned to a group of measurements, which means that my original thought of the size being the waist size in centimeters is way off. OK. I’ve deciphered the bust, waist and hip measurements, so without further adieu, here you go.

  • Size         72           76        80        84        88
  • Bust        84 cm      88        92        96        100
  • Waist      66cm       70        74        78         82
  • Hip         90 cm      94        98        102      106

According to my hip measurement (that’s the measurement we’ll go by to cut and fit the trousers), this means that I’m actually a size 84 rather than the size 76 which I was going to cut. Please note also that other than the size chart being completely off, everything else you need to do with the pattern still applies. You will need to add the seam allowances, but not the hem allowance. Eeekkk! I’m so so sorry about this Ladies. Huge thanks to Andrea for pointing this out. Big apologies everyone! Thanks for everyone’s help on this, this pattern has seriously been a trip!

Let me know if you are completely confused! Can I also just say, I’m so glad I’m not making these by myself. How bad would this have all been if you guys hadn’t given me feedback, tips and tricks. Big thanks everyone! You all make extra fabulous sewing sisters!

  • Cassandra - I must confess that I was surprised that you choose a Tall pattern for your Trousers sew-a-long… but then again if I’m always shortening my patterns to turn them into Petites it’s quite possible that you’re always lengthening your pattern to suit.
    It does sound like there’s a bit of a disconnect between the BurdaStyle website and the mag patterns. I know you mentioned that the hem is included in the pattern piece, but I’m quite sure the magazine usually instructs you to add 4cm hems when you’re adding 1.5cm seam allowance. Perhaps this is another variation from the magazine pattern to the website?
    Then again, I haven’t made any trousers from a 2010 issue of Burda so maybe they’ve just started including hems.
    I might not be making these pants (even I’m not game to shorten from tall down to regular and again down to petite) but your sew a long has inspired me to make a different pair of Burda pants from 2008!
    So far I’m 3 alterations in and have a new appreciation for well fitting jeans!
    ps. Maybe you should just scan in the Burda Mag instructions (at least the layout/seam allowance bit) for the pants directly from the magazine?
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  • Cassandra - Oops also meant to mention there is a method to the madness of the sizing convention: for Regular sizes you divide in half to get your Petite/Short size and for Tall sizes you double you regular size.
    Eg With a waist of 75cm: I’m a Regular size 40, I’m a Petite size 20 and a Tall size 80.
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  • The Cupcake Goddess - I wish I had the magazine to actually do this with. This was the problem to begin with I think. The American Burda Style site doesn’t mention the Tall thing nor give you the correct size chart and even the directions are scant and don’t include this information. Gosh, for those who just downloaded it off the American site this would never have worked. It’s doomed to failure from the beginning. Hopefully now though, armed with more info, those of us wanting to make this pattern will be successful. I am a little frustrated with the hiccups with this pattern and would definitely have not picked it if I had known. You live and learn though, right? Thanks for your input Cassandra.
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  • Cassandra - Ah! I didn’t realise you didn’t have a copy of the magazine. Unfortunately I don’t have a scanner but I’ll take a photo of the pattern instructions (they have a Tall size chart right next to the instructions in the magazine) and email it to you. Hopefully the quality will be good enough to read.
    To go from Regular to Tall before sticking it in the magazine I can only imagine they have lengthened the pattern pieces between the waist and hip area and also under the knees. Since this pattern is pretty straight from the hip down you probably wouldn’t need to alter the pattern in the bottom half of the legs (you’d just hem them up a lot) but you might need to do an alteration to take a few centimeters out between the waist and the crotch.
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  • Andrea - Hi, me again :-)
    The seam allowance for the hem is usually given if there is a turnup. So yes: the hem is ready to go whereas you will need to add every SA every where else. I do have the magazine and if there are any more questions I will be ready to help out :-) (It is of course the German version but this might be helpful because Burda descriptions seem to be even stranger in translation …)
    All the best!
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  • lakaribane - I share Cassandra’s reservations about doing two length alterations on the pattern. That’s why I’ve picked the November wide legged Petite pattern for my project. If only the internet wanted to cooperate and let me blog properly.
    I just checked my July issue, in French. They do say, as Andrea pointed out, that the hem allowance is included because of the cuff. FYI, the hemline is 10cm/4in from the bottom. And the top of the trousers are 3cm/1.25in above the natural waist.
    I’m going to go fight off this procrastination that’s threatened to send me back to bed and trace the two patterns I want. I’m planning a narrow and a wide leg. Probably will finish only the wide for the sewalong.
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  • SabrinaClementine - It’s ok if we’re using a different pattern, right? I planned on using a Vogue one I have in my stash. I figure some things might not apply, but the general idea will still be the same, right?
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  • Angela - found out a couple of weeks ago that the tall sizes are double the regular Burda sizes and the petite sizes are half the regular Burda sizes. For example, if you are normally a size 36, the corresponding tall size is 72 and petite size is 18. I believe the bust, waist, and hip measurements are the same, but adjusted for different heights. :)
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