November 15, 2010

Sneaks and Peeks - The Velvet Boyfriend's Jacket

The Boyfriend's Jacket is coming along. Slowly but surely. This past weekend I did a bunch of work to it and surprisingly really really really enjoyed each process. I mean, I love sewing but you know, sometimes...But this was different. It's a very long and tedious process with ample amounts of hand sewing but I really enjoyed it. It's very magical how the whole thing comes about. Simply magical. And I thought it would be fun to show you shots of my progress as the thing comes together. Disclaimer ~ this is not finished (obviously) and yes, there are white fuzzies everywhere and the side seams have not yet been stitched together. Just have a look past these things, if you would.

I wanted to show you some of the details that I decided to use as I will probably forget when I show you the final creation. There are several. First off, I'm following along in my Tailoring Book for the machine method. For those of you who have this book, you know what I'm talking about. I decided on this method because of the velveteen. It's a beast to work with and I felt that the less I actually had to work with it the better it would be. In this method the lapels are not shaped with padstitching and the hair canvas is applied a little bit differently. This method also does not steam the lapel with a towel either which was my biggest concern since you are supposed to leave it overnight. This would have crushed the silly nap of the fabric and then I would have had to steam it out again which probably would have steamed out the lapel fold. Silly. So, yeah I went with the machine method. A good fit for a pile fabric I think.

Next, after looking through some of my old JCrew inspirations I found that some of the jackets had silk twill in the under collar. I'm using a silk twill for the lining and thought this would be a fun detail even though you'll probably never see it. Suprisingly it's worked out even better than planned as having the undercollar in velvet would have produced serious bulk.

Those blasted bound buttonholes. Those were a trip. In velveteen these things are a billion times harder. And I corded the buggars. This is a very cool trick which makes the buttonhole feel so much more stable. Just threaded a piece of yarn in there and Voila! bound buttonholes built to last!

The pockets. I drafted these from my mother's boyfriend jacket. Then I handstitched them to the jacket. Handstitched. These babies took nearly three hours from cut to finishing on the jacket. But I do love the way they look, and if you don't notice that there are no stitching lines attaching the pocket to the jacket, I will cry.

So far this jacket is very....heavy. It's definitely a Fall/Winter item. It's a very interesting comparison when you pick up a RTW jacket and this hand-tailored jacket and this thing isn't even finished. It reminds of when you pick up a piece of good jewelry and a cheap piece and how the weight is different. The good piece is typically much heavier. So it goes with this.

Hmmmm....what do you think? Do you have the urge to sorta wanna pet it? I do. It's soft, if I do say so myself. I think I'm going to be one very happy girl when this thing is finished. In fact, I think I'll be as happy as a.....PRINCESS.
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