the Button Up Refashion Swap

May 17, 2012 · 23 comments

Friends, here it is! If you follow me on Facebook – which you should – this is the project I posted a little while ago. And this is also the project that I was talking about with my thoughts on refashioning. I’ll admit, I’m a little hooked on refashioning now. Can’t say that I’m really good at it, but I can see the value and sometimes the project can be really easy, like this one I’m about to show you how to do, and it can give you a little boost in your sewing if you need one. And as you know, I’ve needed one.

So about this Blogger Refashion. I was contacted by Miranda of One Little Minute awhile back asking me if I wanted to participate. The premise was simple – refashion a men’s shirt for a blogger that was assigned to you. I couldn’t have been luckier in my partner who was Jen of Grainline (an awesome seamstress and proprietress of downloadable sewing patterns and wearable beauties) because she has nearly identical measurements to mine. Yay! That meant that I could at least try on the refashion and see how it would all work out! Yay! Anyway, there are 10 of us in all and we’re all posting tutorials for our refashions today, so don’t miss out. Here’s the list:

Grainline Studio
Lazy Saturdays
Cotton & Curls
Megan Nielsen Designs
I Still Love You
One Little Minute
MadMim
See Kate Sew
Adventures in Dressmaking

Alright, so let’s discuss what I decided to do for my refashion. I opted to make a box blouse, basically two rectangles sewn together with room left for your arms and head. Yup. It’s so easy, you might just chuckle. Seriously. Amy from Yellow Bird gave me the idea, which by the way, she’s made several and you should head on over to see them because then they’ll give you ideas for what to do if you want to make yourself one. Now here’s the thing, I wanted to keep this simple. I wanted this project to be something you could really whip up in a jiffy and all without the use of a pattern. Something that WILL fit you, because box blouses fit everyone! Got it? Yeah. That’s exactly the idea. So let’s just start with the Box Blouse formula.

The Box Blouse Formula
Width = Hip or Bust measurement (whichever is larger) + 2 – 4 (more if you like) inches of wearing ease + seam allowances (side seams)
Length = the measurement from the shoulder seam to the hem of the finished garment (take this one when wearing a shirt!) + shoulder seam allowance + hem allowance (I like to have at least a good inch)
Note: You’ll need the 4 inches of wearing ease if you are doing a box blouse that doesn’t have a button up front – this to get it over your head, or you can always add a zipper to the side seam if you want to go with less ease!

Not bad right? Here, let me show you what this all would be for me:
My Width = My hip cuz its bigger than the bust (39″) + 2 inches wearing ease + seam allowances (1/2 for each side seam) = 42″
My Length = 25″ from shoulder seam to hem + shoulder seam allowance (1/2″) + hem allowance (1″) = 26.5″

Now before you go a cuttin out, divide your Width by 4. Now go and cut out two rectangles that equal your width divided by 4 x your length, on the fold of the fabric. For me, I would cut two rectangles that are 10.5″ wide x 26.5″ long. Friends, this could not be simpler. Are you with me? If you too would like to refashion a men’s shirt into a box blouse, I recommend deconstructing the shirt by cutting each of the elements out like the shirt fronts, back, (I cut off the yoke) the sleeves. Then cut the back panel of the shirt on the fold and cut the shirt fronts with the center front buttoned up as the foldline.

Stitching it up!
All that’s left is to stitch up your box blouse and maybe add a few details here and there. Stitch your shoulder seams leaving enough room for your head to fit through or if you’re refashioning a men’s shirt, you can opt for a neckline that’s smaller than your head as you’ll have the button up portion at the front. From there stitch the side seams leaving enough room for your arms to fit through and move about in comfortably. Hem the neckline, sleeve and the actual hem at the bottom of the garment. So easy right?

Deconstructing My Refashion
There are details you can add to give your blouse a little edge too. I thought, for a good example I would deconstruct the blouse I refashioned to give you some ideas. I used the neckline of a sewing pattern to create a sweet rounded neckline. You too could also take the neckline from a favorite sewing pattern or even an actual garment. I also added bias tape, made from the sleeve of the original shirt, to finish off the neckline plus give it a sweet little tie bow.

For a little more fit, I took in little pleats at the natural waistline. Just tacked those down with a fine zigzag stitch.

At the hemline, since I didn’t have quite enough fabric to do a full 10.5″ width for each of the rectangles, I thought “Oh Well!” and left little open vents at the side seams. I’ve found with refashions that as you go along you make constant changes to the base of the garment, which doesn’t have to be a bad thing. More of an inventive fix, right?

I took off the old buttons and replaced them with new ones and also added a few more buttons & buttonholes to keep the blouse from gaping you know where. And finally I removed the pocket, but could easily have added another more stylish one.

Now Friends, how’s that for easy? How’s that for getting your sewing mojo on the level again? What do you think of my refashion? Like it? Wanna make one for yourself? You should! So easy, and really such a great blouse to jump into summer with. Jen will be give you a fashion show of it next week, in the meantime, I’m working on another for myself.

On the hunt for another refashion….
Sunni

PS ~ We’ll all be showing off the refashions that were made for us next week! Suzannah from Adventures in Dressmaking did mine and its delightful – I really can’t wait to show it to you! Yay! Here’s a schedule of when you’ll see us in our button up refashions:
Monday, May 21st ~ Lizzie of Cotton & Curls, Krista of Lazy Saturdays
Tuesday, May 22nd ~ Sunni of A Fashionable Stitch, Kate of See Kate Sew
Wednesday, May 23rd ~ Suzannah of Adventures in Dressmaking, Miranda of  One Little Minute
Thursday, May 24th ~ Miriam of  MadMim, Melissa of  I Still Love You
Friday, May 25th ~ Megan of Megan Nielsen Design, Jennifer of Grainline Studio

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Shop Update ~ Silk Pins, Ribbons & Stay Tape!

May 16, 2012 · 6 comments

A few more acquisitions made it into the shop this week! First off, there’s a couple of new petersham ribbon colors and sizes.  I just added Dreamscicle and Rasberry hued ribbons in 1 inch widths, plus in a few of the other colors there’s a few more sizes. Definitely check them out!

Also new – Glass Head Silk Pins! These are seriously the cat’s meow! I purchased a set awhile back and have been using them for sometime now and I could not be happier with them. They work wonderfully for silk, and for all other light to medium weight fabrics too – I’ve also used them for heavy weight fabrics with much success as well. These are definitely a dynamite pin to have! Plus those glass heads make them way easy to find in carpet – it only goes without saying that I drop my share of pins from time to time.

I’ve also become unbelievably fond of this particular brand of stay tape and so I just had to add it to the shop! This is Sewkeys E Extremely Fine Fusible Stay Tape. My especial favorite use for this stay tape – in the shoulders of knits. It totally beats adding twill tape after you’ve sewn a seam, something I always seem to have trouble applying. With this magical notion, you simply fuse the tape to the shoulder’s seamline, stitch it up and Voila! you’re done! It’s so easy and so much simpler. Not to mention, this stuff has a myriad of other uses too. Do give it a try! You’ll love it!

I also wanted to say an especial Thank You to you guys for making me feel like a million yesterday. I’ve read each and every one of your comments and each made me smile and remember what’s really important. Thanks so much for your encouragement! It means the world to me!

xoxo,
Sunni

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in the Interim

May 15, 2012 · 62 comments

Friends, I have to be honest and say that I’ve allowed my sewing jive to slide lately. I’ve been more than a little down about certain things in my life. If I had to lay claim to the biggest offender on that list, I would definitely say that working with middle school students has not been my cup of tea. Thing is, I only work with the “bad” kids. The other day, there was a sweet little volunteer at the school helping out in a spanish class. I was talking to her a little bit and saying that I never really get to know any of the really good kids, because I mostly deal with the bad ones. Then she said, “But they aren’t really bad are they? There’s no such thing as a bad kid.” Sad to say, but in my mind, its a very good thing this sweet young lady doesn’t work at the school.

I think the hardest thing for me, in this middle school situation, is that I feel as if I’ve been transported back to my middle school years. How in the world do kids make it everyday? With the criticism that they get from their peers, its seriously no wonder there are such problems with self-esteem and even suicide. Being an adult, I’m expected to have just “gone through that” and therefore, the insults and rude banter that are slung at me everyday, aren’t supposed to leave a mark. But I’ll tell ya plain, they do. To be frank, this whole thing has sent me into a bit of a depression – a medium-small bit. The bright bit is that school is out in 3 short weeks – though I’ll admit, that seems like an eternity away when I think of some of those rotten kids I have to face everyday.

Over the weekend, I finally got to the point where I feel that I really need to get back on board with those things that make me happy and forget about my school woes. And of course, one thing that makes me really happy is sewing!  Yay! Normally I don’t discuss personal matters here on my blog, but I’ve decided to throw caution to the wind today and bare a little of my soul and what I’ve been feeling lately. Its been a time for me to re-examine what’s really important in my life and though I wouldn’t consider sewing a wardrobe as the most important thing in life, having an outlet for creative ingenuity is. It’s also been a time to remember what some of my goals this year started out as being. I seem to recall something about finishing 3 garments per month (fail!) and I seem to be remembering something about a wrap dress.

Just trying to keep a chin up and a smile on my face. Tell me, what do you do when you get down and out?

Waffling,
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 5.11.2012

May 11, 2012 · 8 comments

Goodness Gracious, its been a week! It’s been a few weeks really. My mister and I are in the middle of making some serious life decisions and well, it’s been taxing on both of us. Even worse, the decisions still haven’t been settled. Aiy, yai yai. Anyway, forget that! I’m tired of agonizing about life and its many challenges and unexpected forks in the road. It’s Stitchin Spolights, sister so let’s be inspired eh?

This week’s AMAZING creation goes to Kristin of K-line. Speaking of agony, that jacket was her’s, I do believe. But oh what ecstasy for the finished result! Isn’t her suit positively delightful. What a dish! That gorgeous fabric (don’t miss out on her unbelievable lining!), the fit, the workmanship. Truly a suit she’ll wear forever and ever! You are positively delicious in this get up Kristin!

I was unusually inspired and grateful for this absolutely beautiful post on health and happiness from Lauren. Gosh, when you get back to basics there’s so much that we do that doesn’t matter and not enough of what we don’t do that does. Well, at least that’s sometimes how I feel. It was wonderful to read this lovely post and I hope you agree!

Wanna make your own sew in labels? Do. Not. Miss. this fabulous tutorial from Victory Patterns! I was so thrilled I nearly fell off my chair with delight from reading about how to do this. I must find one of those markers! Yay!

More beauty this week:
♥ This post was another inspiring one for me. I think I had the exact same resolutions too! I’m totally feelin I need a little kick in the pants these days.
♥ In my heart of hearts (and soul of souls) I am a jeans and tee kind of gal too! A totally inspired me-made ensemble.
♥ Don’t miss Lauren’s knock-out bombshell dress!
♥ Are we all feeling the need for love this week – another “I needed to read that” post. Don’t miss.
♥ An AWESOME post on styling. Rather than just style.
♥ DIY Ombre Tights. So cool. Need I say anything else?
♥ Do you ever wonder how those that went before us dealt with Body Odor? I do. Have peak at this fun post on just that.

Have a great weekend! No agony. Please!

Agonized,
Sunni

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Shop Talk ~ Chalk Pens & Rulers, Oh My!

May 9, 2012 · 11 comments

Hey friends, its been awhile since I’ve done a proper shop update here and there are just a few new things I’ve added. I decided to start carrying those infamous Clover Chalk Pens. Yay! These things are lovely to use and so much easier than fiddling with chalk that breaks up in your hand or trying to sharpen one of those chalk pencils which always seem to break off in the sharpener (at least mine ALWAYS do). I’ve started carrying the blue and white, which are in the shop right now, and the pink and refills for these three colors should be coming soon.

Also, Collins’ Quilt and Sew Ruler is in the shop. A somewhat odd item for a shop that’s mostly into dressmaking tools, you might say? Don’t let the name fool you here! This ruler is THE ruler. It’s got a 1/8″ grid and to boot 1/16″ markings around the outer edges. I use mine all the time when I’m doing a little pattern drafting here and there. They come in terribly handy for adding on seam allowances and putting in grainlines. There’s some stellar instructions on the back of the packaging, to give you great ideas for other fabulous uses for this ruler too.

Just a couple new items to dream about. Yay!

Enjoy!
Sunni

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What’s Old is New – Thoughts on Refashioning

May 7, 2012 · 37 comments

image source – a totally mind-blowing refashion

I’ve been working on a project for sometime now (OK, so I’ve actually been working it out in my head, but I’ve thought about it TONS) and though I can’t unveil it just yet, its been crazy hard for me. It has to do with refashioning a thrifted garment into something else. I tell ya straight, I’m no good at this sort of thing. I’ve tried it several times before now and every time, I feel like the finished result is well….taking a garment and refashioning it into something that it wasn’t really meant to be.

This is not to say that I don’t wear thrifted items, cause I do. I’m also not above taking in a side seam here and there, shortening a hem or sleeve, but that’s not really refashioning is it. That’s altering. When you refashion something, you actually cut up the fabric – or seam rip it apart (btw, I would rather jump off a cliff than do that!) – and make those pieces into something new and utterly amazing. It’s that amazing part at the end that I never quite get. Ha. I’ve also found several times, that there’s just not enough fabric, that hasn’t been claimed for something else, to work with. Well, except maybe if you were working with some gigantic dirndl skirt.

Friends, I need some of your thoughts here. Do you refashion thrifted garments into wearable garments for yourself? Are you happy with the finished result? Me, I’d just rather start right at the beginning and take a length of cloth and make whatever it was I was thinking about making out of the cloth rather than a thrifted garment.

Refashioning Yay or Nay?

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Pyjama Party Extravaganza!

April 28, 2012 · 33 comments

Friends, here they are! I’ve been talking about these a bit on me old facebook page. I didn’t even finish stitching the last stitch until last night, when me, myself and I had a bit of a slumber party while I slept in them for the night too. Alright slumber party fiends, let’s get onto the details.

These pants were a total stash buster. I didn’t spend any money on anything new! Yay! I used McCall’s 5990 and the fabric here is one that actually belongs in a bed – a thrifted top sheet, which looked barely used and I’ve had in the stash, with the intention of making into pj bottoms, for sometime now. The cute little polka dotted details are a quilting cotton I had way too much of in the stash and it seemed too perfect not to use with my main fabric! Originally I cut these puppies out and found out that I needed a few alterations. I know, I’m crazy, but I’m seriously kind of weird about how my pj bottoms fit. These needed some extra fabric in the rear and the original pattern was tapered. Now, I don’t have anything against tapered pants, but oh my goodness, these were a rather more horrific version of mom jeans. So when all was said and done, I made some alterations to the pattern and cut them out again with just enough fabric to spare.

I added pockets to the front because I’m a pocket addict and besides, who doesn’t need pockets to carry little surprises in? Their piped too! I also drafted a sweet pocket for the back, cute huh? This pattern came with hem cuffs instead of the traditional hem and I have to say that I adore this! It’s basically just a rectangle that’s been folded in two and attached to the bottom of the pant. I used petersham in the waistband (as well as elastic) and also added little tabs at the side and back pocket – a detail I totally love. Kind of gives everything a more finished look, wouldn’t you say?

All in all, I would say I went wayyyyyy overboard for a pair of pj bottoms. Wouldn’t you? It’s kind of one of those types of things that its fun to get carried away with and use wacky and cute fabric combinations that you couldn’t really wear in real life. My inner 10 year old is totally oogling over these!

Karen demanded our bedside reading material and I’m one of those people who read and keep alot of books at their bedside. Let’s take a look at what’s there today, shall we? A copy of Threads, like the good proper stitcher that I am. Can’t go to sleep without a wink of sewing advice, right? Self Matters, by Dr. Phil, a book which is actually quite good and one I’m going through bit by bit. I also have Sarah Ban Breathnach’s Romancing the Ordinary, which I take out for days when I’m feeling particularly in need of emotional refreshment. Last but not least is How to Win Friends and Influence People by Dale Carnegie, a book I thrifted awhile back and one which my dad encouraged me to read a long time ago. Normally, I do have a novel of the detective variety here, but I’ve been unusually unhappy with several of the detectives in novels that I’ve read as of late. And there you go. It’s a wonder I get anything done, the way my brain is scattered….

Hop on over to Did You Make That? to participate in the pyjama-rama. There’s so much fun I can barely contain myself! Tonight demands that I make some cookies, watch Bridget Jones and paint my toenails.

zzzzzz….
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 4.27.2012

April 27, 2012 · 5 comments

The week just kind of ran away from me here! Gah! I’m officially taking part in the Pyjama Party hosted by Did You Make That? and I’m almost finished sewing up my pj pants. There has been absolutely no work on my wrap dress and of course, instead I’ve started dreaming up new projects. Sigh. I had some crazy femme stuff happen this week and it’s kind of got me feeling blah. And something must seriously be in the air here in Utah because the kids at the middle school have been unnatural and particularly bad and I’ve been feeling extremely….fed up! Is it normal to not want children after working with such hellions? Grrrhhhh! On a high note, one of Mr. S’s coworkers – Denise! – allowed me to borrow her Downton Abbey Season 2! So you know where I’ll be this weekend. And I was able to change my Facebook page name. It had been under my old alias and I was debating whether or not to just start a new page with my Fashionable Stitch name, but low and behold I was able to change it! Yay! That made my whole week! I’ve been playing around over there, so you should come and join if you are indeed a facebooker.

Isn’t this a most delightful induction to summer dress? I could steal this creation right off of Stephanie’s body. And I just might because she lives here in Utah. I would die for some of that fabric. Sigh! A great rendition of the Darling Ranges dress. Fabulous job Stephanie! Let’s meet for a latte, just be sure to bring a change of clothes….

I adored this interview that Madalynne did with Liz from A Good Wardrobe about clothing you’ll actually wear. I’m sure you’ve experienced putting alot of time and effort into making something that just ends up at the back of the closet. I know I have. Hop on over and read Liz’s tips for sewing garments you’ll reach for all the time.

This completely stunning collection of garments popped through my reader this week. Hop on over to be equally inspired!

More sweet inspiration and goings on:
♥ A very sweet blouse. I adore those buttons!
♥ Another sneak peek at Suzy’s soon to be released sewing pattern!
♥ A step by step waist alteration of some men’s trousers.
♥ A gorgeously tailored jacket, with alot of a great info on how she acheived her look!
♥ A fantastic Mad Men inspired dress! I die over that color!

Have a glorious weekend friends!

xoxo,
Sunni

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Stitching Spotlights 4.20.2012

April 20, 2012 · 20 comments

You’re going to flip out when I tell you that I watched the first season of Downton Abbey in two evenings. I was riveted. Loved it. Favorite characters? I would marry Carsen. Yes. Marry! I ADORE Lady Violet. She is so witty and positively awful – I WILL be her when I grow up! The love story between Mr. Bates and Anna is so wonderful. Tonight, I think I might sit down and watch a few episodes all over again. I’m going to have to purchase season two as it doesn’t seem to be on the interwebs anywhere. But what do I care? I have to see season two now. This is life and death, you know. Have you seen Downton Abbey? What are your favorite characters? Any plans this weekend?

Speaking of Downton, I truly hope you didn’t miss Lauren’s gorgeous titanic ensemble. Oh my goodness, I die! Alack! Beautiful. I do think Lauren would be right at home in this era, don’t you? It’s stunning Lauren!

I had a very hard time picking between the above creation and Karen’s chic blouse, so why not spotlight them both huh? After seeing this beauty, I instantly downloaded the pattern, put it all together (something I LOATHE) and even added the seam allowances like a good girl (something I HATE even more). Then I managed to cut out a blouse in a similar-ish elephant print rayon challis that I’ve had stashed for sometime. I can’t say that I’m done, because I’m not, but the pattern is only 4 pieces! Yay! And isn’t Karen’s creation just fabulous. Oh Karen – this is simply impeccable! A grand sewing project so well done!

Anytime Pam posts a tutorial they are fabulous! So don’t miss this one, especially if you have a thing for getting your garment to look just as pretty inside as out! Awesome tip!

More wonderful things from this week!
♥ Did you see this girl’s darling skirt? Oh you simply have to! It’s so fab!
♥ I’ve been daydreaming about shirtmaking lately. This placket tutorial, pattern included, is not to be missed.
♥ I wish I had a sis-in-law like Casey! This dress would have been fabulous at my prom.
♥ If you’re a belt-ey person like me, you’ll want to make this one from Lauren.
♥ Ever thrift items that are just too short? Here’s a tutorial for how to lengthen a hem.
♥ I hope you didn’t miss Peter’s maternity ensemble for Cathy. What do you think she’s having, boy or girl?
♥ Here’s a fabulous Princess Seam FBA tutorial for you well endowed ladies. Don’t miss Katie’s amazing dress either! Perfect for summer.
♥ A great tutorial on spiral steel boning and how to cut and cap it.

Have a lovely weekend!
Sunni

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How to: Create Armscye Princess Seams

April 18, 2012 · 18 comments

For my upcoming wrap dress, I decided to draft armscye princess seams for the back bodice (in plain old english, this means that the princess seam originates from the armhole). Formerly, I’ve never really been fond of princess seams mostly because I just never really gave them a chance I think. But times change and I’ll be….darned if I were to say that I’m one of those people who get stuck in fashion ruts. I mean, princess seams are timeless, so its only apropos that I give them a fightin chance. This really isn’t a hard technique, so I thought I would put together a little tutorial on how to do it. Before you jump into this tutorial, make sure you’ve gone over How to: Move a Dart as this is a bit of a follow up from that. So now, are you ready to give your favorite TNT (tried’n'true – believe me, I had no idea what this term meant until a few weeks ago) pattern a facelift?

Back Bodice

Step 1 ♥ Let’s start with the back bodice first, because its the easiest – which is not to say this is hard, so don’t be scared. First thing to do is draw in some grainlines in the areas I’ve given you above. Keep the grainlines parallel to the center back. Now, I’ve got a confession to make. I didn’t do this first step, so the next few photos are going to be grainline-less, but please don’t miss this first step like I did. It’s important that you don’t get all grainline confused.

Step 2 ♥ Now we need to draw in the princess seam. From the tip of the dart (the top, pointy end) to the middle-ish section of the armscye draw in a line. Then add some notches which will help you when sewing this bad boy up later on.

Step 3 ♥ Now you’re going to take your paper scissors and cut out the dart and cut from the tip of the dart to the armscye where you just marked your new seam line.

Step 4 ♥ Take your french curve and curve out the pointy parts (this happens to be at the top of the dart) of the new princess seam. You’ll be cutting a sliver from the Side Back and you’ll be adding just a little paper to the Upper Back.

Step 5 ♥ Add seam allowances to your freshly drafted back bodices. See, not so bad right? PPPSSsshawwww! You could do this in your sleep! [click to read more…]

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