January 19, 2017

In Progress: Vogue 8333 - Fitting

This is one of those patterns that I've wanted to make for a long time. The design, in my opinion, is so classic - has some interesting lines and a beautiful shape. The lapel and collar size seem well suited to the lines of the jacket - something I watch for a lot. This is also one of those Claire Shaeffer patterns and I've wanted to try one of these couture patterns for a long time. There is no time like the present, so I jumped in.
I made a muslin and was rather surprised at how well the muslin fit. With all of the design lines and such I was expecting a fitting nightmare, but I was pleasantly surprised that for the most part, the muslin fit rather well.
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January 17, 2017

Made: Another Flannel Shirt for Mr. AFS

It was that time again. Mr. AFS needed a new flannel shirt. Having converted him to these over the last couple of years, I'm happy to say that the sewing pattern I use for these - Simplicity 1544 - is getting better and better with each shirt.  If you recall (which you very well may not because hello, that was over a year ago....) I made changes to the pattern to create a convertible collar style. This really helps cut down on the bulk when using a nice plush and hefty flannel. I opted to go with this style again because I went all hog wild and decided to splurge on this lovely Kaufman Mammoth Flannel. It was Mr. AFS's birthday after all and he definitely deserved a handmade something from me because I've put him through his paces in the last year or so.
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January 12, 2017

New Year, Old Goal

It is a bright and shiny new 2017 everyone! I do love this time of year for that wiped slate clean sort of feeling, though it does tend to wear off rather too quickly. I'm not partial to making lots of resolutions as I've found that I never make good on them. One or two goals for the new year is good for me. An old goal that I've always had is to sew all the fabric. Or at the very least, to sew all of my fabric. More often than not, the accruing/hoarding part of my #fabricjunkie personality takes over and the sewing part gets tossed to the wayside. This year I decided to take more logical steps in trying to sew all the fabric. I mean, there's saying that I'm going to sew all the fabric and then there's actually making plans, laying groundwork and forming a foundation from which to accomplish a goal. While I know I won't be able to sew all of my fabric in one year, I can at least make a concerted effort to sew more of my stash than usual.
To start, I thought I would share a project that I undertook as my first official stashbusting step. Making a Swatch Journal. This was a tall order. I have a lot more fabric than even I realized. There were so many pieces that I forgot I had and some that I have no idea where they even came from. In fact, going through all of it gave me some much needed perspective. It is time to get some sew on.
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November 5, 2016

Made: Figgy's Nituna Coat

I have some pretty darling nieces and a nephew and it just so happened that one of my nieces turned 7. I had heard through the grapevine that she could do with a winter coat. I thought it would be a great time to pull out this Figgy's Nituna Coat pattern that I've had stashed for ages and give it a go.
This is such a cute kids pattern and I feel that when you're making an investment piece like this, it's fun to add some of the bells and whistles of traditional tailoring to it for practice. Especially when it's for a little person and it's akin to making a sample, yet someone can actually wear it and use it. I opted to do some changes to this pattern to give it a more professional touch and because I do love doing a tailoring project and it's always good to remember how to do things like bound buttonholes and welt pockets.
Overview of the pattern: The Nituna coat is a children's pattern - unisex, which is a plus! - with a hood, optional back bodice pleat, patch pockets or welt pockets. This pattern also features a lining, but I would say that this is more of a reversible coat treatment than a traditional lining. I created a traditional lining for my version. The pattern itself does not really come with a lining pattern, but instead you cut the same pieces as the coat shell and from there put the "lining" and the outer "coat" together and attach with bias binding around the edges or right sides together, turn and topstitch.
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September 16, 2016

Sewing Library: Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit

I was working my way through previous blog posts here, cleaning up things and working on my migration from Wordpress to Blogger. Yeah, that is still a thing. I had started some Sewing Library posts a few years ago and never really did a lot with that, but it's something I definitely want to pick up again. I've learned a major portion of my apparel sewing know-how from books. Text books and more mainstream books on sewing have been a major source of inspiration for getting to a point of mastering this form of creativity. There are so many different worlds within the realm of sewing and fashion design, it's easy to immerse yourself and just get sucked in. With so many books out there, I think it fitting that I can add to this conversation by giving you insight into my favorites.
One of these is Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit by Steffani Lincecum. The story goes that I found this book on Amazon as I was perusing books for patternmaking because I was sick of fitting sewing patterns from envelopes. I think there's a point that every sewist comes to where you are wondering if there is a work around to the whole fitting problem that plagues us all. Sewing patterns don't fit right out of the envelope for pretty much anyone and yes, that includes Indie's in my opinion as I have yet to find one that does. But this is a part of the apparel sewing process. Fitting and a basic understanding of good fit is essential and comes with time, patience and practice. But when you get to the part where are wondering if there is a work around for fitting, you start looking at possibly creating your own patterns.
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