Gosh! It’s Friday again. I haven’t been feeling on par lately and it’s been seriously hiccuping me. I’m almost finished with my green ponte knit shirtdress (yay!) and have one more item to make before January leaves us. Remember I’ve got a 3 item a month quota to meet here! Anyway, I’ve got lots of stuff in store for next week, so just hang in there with me. Feeling on par is only a few more buttonholes away…

I’m in love with Handmade Ryan Gosling. For some reason, I never tell you the great things Mr. S says to me but instead choose to enlighten you with some of the less than sweet comments. I assure you, they’re almost as good as these from Handmade Ryan Gosling. Mr. S even thinks I’m pretty with no make-up, tangled hair and pjs. Can’t help lovin that man or Ryan Gosling. By the way, anyone seen Lars & the Real Girl? Probably my most favorite Ryan Gosling movie! Check it out.

It’s more than likely that you’ve already seen Gertie’s dress, but it has to be one of the most perfect wiggle dresses I’ve ever seen! Totally fabulous. She’s such a looker! Those gussets are positively a revelation, don’tcha think? Wiggle it Gertie, we can’t wait for that book…

I’m excited to take my Clover pattern and up the ante just a little. Have you seen these mini drafting tutorials from Sallieoh? Sallie has made it to my Stitching Spotlights every week this January – she’s got such great style. I love her version of Colette Clover, which is how I found her! Don’t miss out on her tutorials and fabulous blog!

More inspiration hitting my radar this week:
I’ve started to do this too! Making little embroidered tags for each of my handmade garments – Lauren, you took the words right out of my mouth.
An awesome idea for recycling! Come to think of it, bras aren’t the only thing you could recycle – what about fabric like from a beautiful Pendleton wool skirt? Yup. Do it.
I. want. some. of. these. So cute! A little sexy too!
Delightful dress. Positively delightful! Aren’t polka dots just the happiest of all prints?
More hand worked buttonholes on a darling blouse! So sweet!
Please tell me you did not miss Tasia’s latest pattern. Renfrew is at the tip top of my sewing list – my palms are itching for that pattern! Yay!
Chocolate suckers in the shape of buttons – now wouldn’t that be great for a sewing party? Sigh. Someday we’ll all get together and have chocolate button suckers…

Happy Weekend, Friends!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 5 comments }

Gosh! I can’t believe the week went by that fast. Sheesh! Already Friday. Do you have any great plans for the weekend? We celebrated Mr. S’s birthday last weekend and so this weekend we’re taking it a bit easy. I’m working on my green ponte knit dress – same dress pattern as my denim shirtdress. I have a plan to whip out at least 3 garments each month this year and its going to happen, or else….

I wanted to spotlight a few new additions to the shop this week! I meant to do this in a different post, but you know how it goes. The week sometimes slips away from ya. Anyways, I’ve finally got my shipment of wooden pressing tools in. I’ve had the point turners and pressers for awhile, but now I’ve added clappers and the two in one point presser and clapper (WOW! OK, I just sold out of the point presser and clappers, but friends, don’t worry! I just put in another order – they’ll be back in stock within the week!). I’m pretty impressed with them myself. They are rather fabulous and can I add, hard to find. These little ditties were not the easiest things to get my hands on. But I’m pretty sure they’re here to stay now. Yay!

This week’s spotlighted garment comes from Lavender over at ThreadSquare. Ummm…. she hand worked the buttonholes on this blouse. I have a thing for those if you remember and I seriously think the world of anyone that at least gives them a try! Her buttonholes look marvelous as does this fabulous blouse! She used crochet cotton for her’s – a great idea. Take it from Lavender (and me) do not try these bad boys with embroidery floss – its a very hateful experience. Amazing work Lavender – you’re a peach in red.

This fabulous-ness flashed through my reader this week and I can’t decide which I love more – the beautifully tailored suits or the masks. There’s just something about a man in a good suit that makes me a little weak in the knees. But gosh, a guy in a suit with a mask – does that mean they wouldn’t talk back? I faint…

More inspiration that’s caught my eye this week:
✂ Did you catch this girl’s masking tape dress? It’s rather amazing, do check it out.
✂ I die over this girl’s tailored jacket. Leopard print lining is a must for at least one garment, I think.
✂ I’m so jealous that I don’t have this fabric and even more jealous that this delightful top isn’t mine. Just fuming green with jealousy.
✂ Don’t miss Casey’s post on what to look for when you’ve got a thing for vintage style shoes, but you don’t have the budget for them.
✂ I. Love. This. Coat.
✂ Doesn’t everyone need a stuffed mustache?
✂ I nearly fell off my chair with laughter after reading “i almost wrote your name on my spelling test.”
This is something to keep in mind the next time you’re sure you cut something on grain but the print is obviously off grain.
✂ How cute is this applique? Something great to keep in mind for Spring for sure.

Have a lovely weekend!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 13 comments }

Many of you requested to see the inner workings and details of things I had mentioned but did not show pictures of for my shirtdress. I am more than happy to comply! Yay!

First of all, the whale print flannel that interlines the skirt. I’m quite sure that its a baby print. No matter. It adds some warmth to this little ditty of a dress. Apologies as it does look a little worse for the wear – the indigo dye from the denim did bleed a little as I was working on it and I’ve worn this dress about 5 times since its first appearance in my closet last week! I also used the flannel as the interfacing too. It was used in the collar and the buttonhole placket.

For the placket that contains the buttons, I used petersham ribbon to stabilize. I’ve seen this before on RTW garments and thought it would be a fun touch to add here. It’s just a strip of the 3/4″ petersham, that runs the length of where the buttons begin and end. I think for my next dress I’m going to use it for the whole length of the placket though. It just adds a little pop of something unexpected. There’s petersham also in the hem, where I used my handy dandy tutorial for hemming a garment with petersham.

Let’s see, I think that about does it as far as the details you didn’t see. I’m actually trying to up the ante on inner construction details this year. I’ve been scouting out some RTW techniques and I love seeing sweet contrasts like piping, ribbons, interlinings and the like on the inside. It makes wearing the garment even that much more fun, I think, plus its a great way to use up scraps. What do you think? Do you think inner construction details count?

smooches,
Sunni

{ 24 comments }

Happy Friday the 13th Everyone! Yay! First of all today, I want to especially thank you guys for your wonderful comments about my shirtdress! You all definitely know how to make a girl feel like a million bucks. Gush…Thank you, Thank you! I’ve got some more fun stuff to share today. Let’s see, first we’ve got to set the mood.

I know I’m a music buff craze. Hopefully its something you guys can appreciate as I tend to start my Stitching Spotlights with a little musical inspiration. I love listening to music as I work on items for the shop and as I sew for myself. Mr. S introduced me to Spotify recently. Have you guys heard of this? It’s the GREATEST! It’s an application that you can download to your computer and you can listen to entire albums from different artists. I love this! You can also create playlists just like in Itunes. Have to admit that I think this is so much better than Pandora because I get to decide what I want to listen to and who. Yes! I’ve been on a serious Neil Diamond kick with Spotify lately too. Get your music fix too!

Today’s spotlighted creation comes from Amanda at Amanda’s Adventures in Sewing. Amanda is one of my favorite bloggers. She makes the most beautiful clothing. This darling jacket is no exception. She’s a mom, she’s got style and she dresses up in her glorious handmade creations everyday – this spells out to be simply marvelous in my book! Simply delicious jacket Amanda!

Have you guys heard about Megan Nielsen Sewing Patterns? You’d better head on over. She’s got a great line up and I love that she’s got a whole collection dedicated to pregnant women too. One of her most popular patterns also comes in a kit – with fabric that she made from her original clothing line. I love kits! They are the best!

More inspiration that’s caught my eye this week:
Two stellar blogs are jointly hosting a Colette Pattern Sew Along – making all of the patterns from the recently released Colette Sewing Handbook.
I love this travel sewing pack and have a mind to make one of my own.
Sallieoh posted a great tutorial on how to alter a sleeve cap to make it fit the bodice – odd how there’s always too much ease in the sleeve cap for a commercial pattern!
Catherine Daze tried out a new binding foot, now I’m quite sure I need one too.
A gorgeous free vintage knitting pattern from Liz – even though I don’t knit, it’s fun to drool over something this beautiful!
Gertie posted an awesome tutorial for a sleeve gusset! Check it out!

Have a marvelous weekend everyone!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 6 comments }

Dearest Friends! I’m delighted to give it up to Kristiann Boos, the creator and owner of Victory Patterns today. I happened upon Victory Patterns through Lizz of A Good Wardrobe, when over the holidays, she had posted a running list of independent pattern companies. Thanks Lizz! I promptly downloaded some patterns and sent Kristiann an email asking if she would indulge me and give me an interview to share with you! She’s a lovely gal of which you’ll see below, and she’s even got a sweet gift to give in the end! Don’t miss out on 15% off Victory Patterns when you enter SUNNIDAY (all caps please) in the coupon code at checkout (please note that this code is only good for the Victory Patterns Big Cartel site)! Yay! Sale lasts until January 19th. Hurry over and pick up a pattern or two! Want 3 patterns or even the whole collection? Hop on over to the Victory Pattern Etsy store where you can purchase these in already discounted bundles (please note that the above discount code will not work for the Etsy shop)! I’m sure you’re going to love her offerings! Now get to know Kristiann a little better:

Will you tell us a little bit about yourself and your background? When did you first pick up the needle and thread?

Hi, I’m Kristiann and I live in Toronto where I design PDF sewing patterns at Victory Patterns. I have a background in fashion design and teaching and I’m addicted to making things!  As a kid I always kept myself occupied with re-purposing random stuff I found laying around the house. We had an old sewing machine and some unwanted clothes so I managed to patch together a few projects. As a result of my self taught skills and weird imagination, I think I was a weirdly dressed kid, wearing shirts out of towels and pants out of curtains.  I was so excited when I got to take a home economics class in school. We got to pick our own pattern and I made a floor length purple velvet cape with a giant hood like belle wore in Beauty And The Beast. Where was my mom in all of this mess? That’s how it all started, and over the years I got better, I hope?!

What prompted you to create Victory Patterns? Where do you see your pattern company headed in the next few years?

For the past few years I have taught at a lovely sewing studio in Toronto called the Workroom, and I have seen that the interest in sewing has grown so much, and is continuing to grow. I saw people flocking to the Japanese dress books, and despite the instructions being in Japanese, they were just dying to have some cute projects to sew. I realized there was room in the market for some stylish sewing patterns and I decided to create my own line. The patterns allow me to develop a “clothing line” with the means I have at the moment, and I may want to take that further as time goes on. I want to keep developing more patterns and I’d love to put out some handbag and accessory PDF’s. I’m contemplating creating printed patterns, working on made to order pieces or producing a very small clothing line, and developing a textile collection. Time will tell.

Your designs have a lovely retro feel, but with a wonderful modern twist. What inspires you? Favorite designer/style icon?

I’m inspired by the vintage styles and I really love everything from the 20′s to the 70′s. There are so many designers that I love, but some of my favorites are McQueen, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Jeremy Laing, Marc Jacobs and Lauren Moffat for really wearable stuff. I love looking at interesting garment details and various drafting techniques and integrating these things into wearable, feminine clothing.

When I think of a style icon, I think of my mom in the 70′s. She was (and still is) such a beautiful lady with such great style. Her mom used to have her clothes made for her, and I still have a few pieces. They are all so gorgeous and delicate, and I love that they were hand made! Sometimes I imagine her when I design.

Do you sew for yourself these days? Working on anything for yourself right now?

Sad to say, it’s been a while since I’ve had the time to sew for myself. Luckily, with Victory Patterns, the samples fit me, so it’s like getting a whole new wardrobe, but I have lots of things in my head that I wish I had the time to make. My sewing to do list right now consists of altering a growing mountain of vintage clothing I’ve collected. It’s haunting me!

What are your favorite sewing materials? Favorite fabric/cloth?

I love working with leather and silk. Anything you make with either material always looks amazing! Leather can be crafted in so many ways and gains character with age. Silk looks and feels beautiful, it takes dye in the best way, and I love to paint it!

Thanks for having me, and I hope you enjoy the Patterns!!!

Thank you Kristiann!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 19 comments }

Here it is. That dress. Pretty cute huh? I’m so completely in love with it, that I’m just about to cut out another – in an emerald green ponte knit. So, I already told you much of the background on this dress, you know, perfect fit and all that. I’ll cover my findings on how I went about fitting the bodice with the sleeve later on. For now, here’s some more fun facts and ideas for you:

The skirt of this is none other than the Sewaholic’s Lonsdale (Tasia, you now have complete monopoly on my skirts). I went for an above the knee length and have to admit, above the knee looks better on me than below the knee for this particular style.
The skirt section is interlined in a whale of a print flannel (meaning there’s whales on it, ha!), just for warmth. Well, and for fun cause I’m silly like that.
I also used the flannel as my stabilizer for the buttonhole placket and collar. Worked out wonderfully too.
The sleeve is my own design – besides taking the cap from Simplicity 2724. I managed to take out the fullness from the original design and tacked on a pretty cute tie embellishment to the bottom.


The buttons are hand covered buttons made with the wrong side of the fabric. I’m about to make a belt too, but you know, I was practically jumping out of my skin to show you this dress.
The fabric is a denim – almost a chambray type, lightweight – from Joann. The flannel was from Joann too. So were the hand cover buttons.
The collar was trimmed down to be shorter so that it could stand up instead of fall down. That means that the placket and lapel were thinned out too. Since I like my look better with the collar standing up, I flipped the stabilizer (the flannel in this case) to the undercollar instead of applying it to the upper collar. Have to say it makes a huge difference too – the collar stays up all day.


I stabilized the buttonhole placket with flannel, but the flip side – where the buttons are attached – is stabilized with a strip of rayon petersham, also from the shop. Hemmed it all up in petersham too.
My fingers went blue from the indigo dye every time I worked on this dress.
I feel rather Daphne-esque (Scooby Do, you know) in this dress, especially with my hair down, and I’m fine with that. Mr. S is not.

That’s about it, I think. What do you think? Oh yes. I’m sure you are wondering if I can, indeed, put my arms out comfortably in front of me. Why yes. Yes, I can. It’s a beauty, eh? After finishing this dress, I keep wondering why I haven’t made more things in denim.  Do you even have any idea how easy this dress is to wear to anything? I’ve no doubt that I’ll be wearing it, until it literally falls off my body. Classic. Timeless. Cute. Stylish. Comfortable too.

I know I’m a geek. It’s totally OK if before these photos you didn’t think I was, but now you know I am. It’s a wonderful Wednesday! Thanks for tuning in to my show and tell.

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 72 comments }

Fashion & Necessity

January 9, 2012 · 19 comments

Mr. S and I were having a discussion on the fur topic again. This after I had posted about my vintage fur collar. He brought up a question that I found rather intriguing. “Is fashion a necessity?” He promptly said no and I stood there thinking for a moment. The next day I thought about it some more.

At first I thought, “No. Fashion is not a necessity.” But as I’ve thought about it more and more, I’m not so sure that saying “No” is quite right. My first thought about saying “yes” dealt with matters of attraction. What I mean is, the way in which you attract a mate/companion. Initially, you have to admit, it is based on appearance. Whether someone is attractive to you and not to someone else, is, of course, personal taste, and that’s what makes it so exciting. Right? Now, you might be thinking, “This is rather silly. Who cares about attraction?” Well if you are attracting a mate, who is of the opposite sex, and then you get married, based off of that initial attraction plus getting to know each other and falling in love, then its possible that you’ll have children. Having children is a big deal, at least in my book. If nothing else, it means the survival of our species – and I do realize that many have varying views on the survival of our species (even the overpopulation of our species), which is a discussion for another time. Still, the point being that fashion and attraction levels of who we are and how we wear things links into our chemistry in such a way that it can hardly be ignored and is perhaps a platform for saying that there might be a little more to fashion and necessity than what immediately meets the eye. What do you think?

A favorite blogger of mine – Kristin – has this posted in her profile:
“Form/Function. Line/Curve. Safe/Risk. Art/Craft. Body/Mind. Fashion intersects these. It’s how we express what is popular in what is personal. It’s where intellect debates sex; where soft and hard duke it out. So much mystery underpins beautiful things. So much confidence rests upon them. Discuss.”

I don’t know what its like where you live, but where I live and have grown up fashion and style are considered to be much less worthy pursuits than what is more widely recognized as intellectual arts. I believe, there is so much more to fashion than just saying its for those who take an interest in beautiful things and its definitely not for the silly, superficial or dumb. As Kristin states, so much confidence rests upon them. Truer words could not be spoken. It’s not easy being green  – possibly meaning its not as easy as you might think to stand out in a crowd, to wear bright colors, to always be the “well-dressed” one. Crazy enough, I feel that these thoughts give fashion a necessity, at least in my life. It’s necessary for me to be creative and at this moment in life, fashion presents itself in a most appealing way to me, intertwining with my passion for sewing in such a way I cannot ignore it. Rather, I feed on it.

I ask you, “Is fashion a necessity?” Discuss.

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 19 comments }

The return of Stitching Spotlights! Yay! I used to do these and somehow stopped (how does that happen?). However, I decided that I absolutely have to start doing them again because there is just so much going on around the interwebs, I cannot be silent any longer! So let’s start 2012 with a big of a bang, eh?

Mr. S, in all his wonderfulness, purchased a CD for me for Christmas that I just absolutely cannot stop listening to! Especially in my sewing room, as I start working on projects and getting business items for the shop done. Anyone ever heard of The Puppini Sisters? They are super fun. They’ve got some vintage, retro vibe/jive going on and truly its to die for. Here’s one of my favorite tunes from their album The Rise and Fall of Ruby WooSoho Nights.

This week’s spotlighted creation comes from Duane of The Japanese Pattern Challenge. Friends, this gentleman makes the most beautiful men’s garments! Would you not agree that this pea coat is just to die for? Gosh, the tailoring is just amazing. Look at that collar, please notice the single welt pockets (those are not easy!) too. Flawless. Wool is merely magic for this man’s hands.

I’m getting too excited not to share this new pattern company with you. I’ve sent a few interview questions to Kristiann Boos of Victory Patterns and will be posting that soon (jump over to Paunnet for a great interview!). Aren’t these just delightful? What a great eye for lovely details and femininity. I’m quite sure you’ll love her offerings. She’s got 6 downloadable patterns out. Go ahead, have a look and start dreaming up your next project.

Speaking of patterns, heard about Your Style Rocks? They take line drawings from folks like you and me, have a contest and the winner’s design gets made up into a sewing pattern. All the patterns are free! Be sure to check it out, join and I’m sure many of you would have great contributions!

More inspiring goodness catching my eye:
✂ Lauren posted about notching and the way she does it, which is the way I do it too – How Do You Notch?
✂ I, for one, am considering this “Vintage-Inspired, Modern Style Design Challenge” hosted by BurdaStyle & Amy Barickman. What about you?
✂ Tasia is gearing up for her newest design Minoru Sew Along. I definitely need a more casual jacket and this one fits the bill.
✂ Speaking of Sew Alongs, Sherry’s just finishing up her “Ruby Slip” sew along, of which she’s included a gorgeous free pattern to boot.
✂ Want to learn how to sew, but just have no idea where to start? Tilly has a fantastic series going on over on her blog. Do check it out!
✂ Do. Not. Miss. McCall’s Month over at My Happy Sewing Place.

Enjoy!

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 18 comments }

I have a thing with getting just the right fit in a garment. It’s one of the plethora of reasons why I sew now instead of buying RTW – though I do still purchase clothing here and there. I had long avoided making anything that required a perfect fitting bodice with sleeve. But then I decided that I really wanted a perfectly fitted shirtdress. That one dress that brings out everything I love about my body and gives me a little Oooomph in the upper body. Now, you may ask, “Why? Why, Sunni, have you avoided a making a piece with a perfectly fitted bodice?” I’ll give it to you straight. Two words ~ armscye and sleeve. Enter my Christmas Break project. Come on now, don’t be shy…

This is the shirtdress folks. The bodice anyway. Originally it started its life as McCall’s 4769, but there is so little left of the original pattern that I’m terribly tempted to say it’s mine. Fine, I’ll just say it. It’s mine with a collar and button down placket from McCall’s 4769. And this thing fits like a glove.

Let’s get back to my piece on the armscye and sleeve, shall we? Yes, let’s, because I’m quite sure that you are all dying to know what my big problem with this thing is. Well, let me tell you. Not only do I have a very forward thrusting shoulder (this means that my actual shoulder, actually thrusts forward more than what is considered the norm)(it also means that it thrusts forward a good whole inch more than a traditional commercial pattern) but I also have a very broad upper back (this means that only the upper back is broad not my entire back – and it also means that its quite broad by about 1.5″ beyond traditional commercial patterns). What it all comes down to folks is that when I make a bodice on anything – shirt, dress, jumper, jacket, etc. – I can’t put my arms comfortably out in front of me. Daily activities like driving, eating, opening a door feels restrictive and quite frankly, by the end of the day it starts hurting because the fabric has rubbed my skin raw in the front shoulder/upper arm area. In fact, I stopped buying woven shirts altogether because of this very issue.

So, now I’m sure you’re wondering what this all has to do with McCall’s 4769. For starters, I made about 7 or 8 (maybe more, there were so many that my memory is a bit shaky) of that particular bodice. It’s really just a basic sloper bodice – two darts in front and one in back – and I put sleeves in each and every one and in not a single one could I put my arms comfortably in front of me. Finally after exhaustive thinking and doing, sewing and cutting, slashing and spreading, I had a serious epiphany and reached for Simplicity 2724, something I had completely forgotten I had made with much success (this is the Naughty Secretary Dress btw). This is the one bodice with sleeve dress that has worked like a charm. And it is now my sloper/fitting shell, etc for the top portion of my body. Granted I had to lengthen it, put the darts back in and take the puffiness out of the sleeve, but in the end, I think I’ve got something that is nothing short of a revelation for me. I intend to start using it to see what I need to change on a pattern before I go directly into creating a muslin. I’m rather excited about it to say the least.

What’s that one item you are afraid of making? Do you fear/dread the awful adjustment of trying to fit it just right? When you fit something, are there things you are willing to live with and things you just won’t? Arms being able to drive my vehicle ranks rather high for me. And now, I can! Yay!

I have a few things to finish up on this dress (as you can see) before I give you all the big reveal, but don’t worry. You will be jealous. Guaranteed. Indeed, I do believe that you should be after 7 or 8 (possibly 10-ish) muslins.

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 31 comments }

That Touch of Mink

January 4, 2012 · 39 comments

I had an absolutely fabulous Christmas Vacation. Rest and relaxation as far as the eye can see! Granted I did try to get in some much needed work on the shop – Dressmaker’s Hams & Rolls are finally back in stock. Yay! I also did a ton of sewing. The weird thing being that it doesn’t look like I have very much to show for it.

My mom and sis were in town over my holiday vacation and we went out for a rather marvelous lunch and some thrifting at a most favorite local thrift shop. I found this sweet little vintage fur collar there and promptly took it home to amend. By the way, I’m quite sure this is not mink as I’ve had a mink stole before (the title of this post is just for fun) and the coloring and feel is much different. I’m not sure what sort of fur this is, but it is the real deal. The original lining was in rather sad shape so I unpicked the whole thing and started from scratch. I used Casey’s clever tutorial and came out with a rather stellar looking collar which I have been pairing with a jewel necked cardi I bought some time ago. Mr. S thinks this is utterly strange and finds fur collars to be a really “dated” look. Whenever I wear it about, he inquires why I would wear such a thing and proceeds to meow at me and pet the collar…

I thought I would bring up the topic here for discussion too. What do you think about real fur? Do you wear it? Would you wear it? I had told Mr. S that “at least it’s a vintage authentic fur and not one that was tanned today.” And he asked, “What’s the difference?” To which I’m positively stumped for a reply. I’ve never really been averse to authentic fur, at least when found in a thrift store. I had never actually sewn with any either and found myself curious about how it would measure up against other fabrics. What do you say? Yea or Nay?

xoxo,
Sunni

{ 39 comments }